Cam degreeing help me understand!
For example if I had it zero tdc in the compression stroke then spun it around to where #6 is at the compression stroke and #1 is tdc the wheel should read like 44 degrees if I was 22 off. Because you have to split the difference. If you go one way its is 20 and the other way its 24 than 22 would be true tdc so you move the wheel to 22 then spin it back around and get 22 again then remove the stop 0 is true tdc! Correct?
Yes. I don’t use a positive stop. Never have. By the time you get it bolted on, I’ve found TDC and have moved on to the rest of it.
I’m not a fan of the cardboard degree wheel. You can buy a decent 8 inch steel degree wheel for 20-30 bucks.
All I use is an 8 inch wheel. The bigger ones are nice, but I’m not paying that kind of money for one.
BTW, in the above picture of your lifters, if that’s overlap it *LOOKS* like the exhaust valve is higher than the intake. If it is, the cam is retarded.
Pictures can be deceiving.
I forgot to mention that most of those small degree wheels have a hole in them for GM stuff. There are a couple of ways to make it easier to use on Chrysler stuff.
One is to take an old damper bolt, face it off flat and drill and tap it for 3/8-16. Then machine the face for a step that is the diameter of the hole in the degree wheel.
Then the wheel is centered on the damper bolt and you can turn the crank with that bolt, and you only loosen the 3/8 bolt to adjust for TDC.
The other way is to do the same to a damper bolt but make up a spacer to fill the hole in the degree wheel.
