Starter change 440/TTI long tubes/727 Auto/Manual steering box

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Kendog 170

Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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Starter change 440/TTI long tubes/727 Auto/Manual steering box


I thought I would document what I did to change out my starter with this set up in hopes of helping others. The 1st time I did a lot of unnecessary work like removing entire steering linkage ect:


1- Dis-connect Battery

2- Remove Left side Spark plugs

3- Unbolt Left header at motor. I left the forward bolt attached for now.

4- Jack up front of car and secure jack stands.

5- Disconnect left outer tie rod , turn steering wheel all the way left. Tie tie rod to control arm to keep out of the way.

6- Disconnect header at collector.

7- Disconnect Kickdown rod at tranny bracket that goes to tranny.

8- Remove Kickdown bracket from Tranny 5/8” wrench (I left top rod intact and let let the bracket hang out of the way. You can remove completely if so inclined.)

9- Remove last header bolt at Engine .

10- With Header loose you can move it around to access Starter cable nuts at solenoid, then upper starter bolt using a short 5/8” box wrench and lastly the lower 11/16” Starter nut.

11- Now it’s a matter of moving around the header and starter to get it out .

12- Reverse this procedure for Installation.

13- I can now do this in about two hours.
 
Revised comment on Tranny lines.
Starter change 440/TTI long tubes/727 Auto/Manual steering box


I thought I would document what I did to change out my starter with this set up in hopes of helping others. The 1st time I did a lot of unnecessary work like removing entire steering linkage ect:


1- Dis-connect Battery

2- Remove Left side Spark plugs

3- Unbolt Left header at motor. I left the forward bolt attached for now.

4- Jack up front of car and secure jack stands.

5- Disconnect left outer tie rod, turn steering wheel all the way left. Tie Tie rod to control arm to keep out of the way.

6- Disconnect header at collector.

7- Disconnect Kickdown rod at tranny bracket that goes to tranny.

8- Remove Kickdown bracket from Tranny 5/8” wrench (I left top rod intact and let the bracket hang out of the way. You can remove completely if so inclined.)

9- Tranny line(s) may need to be unbolted at tranny. (Mine did not)

10- Remove last header bolt at Engine.

11- With Header loose you can move it around to access Starter cable nuts at solenoid, then upper starter bolt using a short 5/8” box wrench and lastly the lower 11/16” Starter nut.

12- Now it’s a matter of moving around the header and starter to get it out.

13- Reverse this procedure for Installation.

14- I can now do this in about two hours.
 
Great job providing the info on what it took to change a starter with a big block and TTI headers. It should/might help others with there decision of putting a big block into an a body and of course if TTI headers are worth it.
 
1 3/4" Revised again . lol

Starter change 440/TTI 1¾” long tubes/727 Auto/Manual steering box


I thought I would document what I did to change out my starter with this set up in hopes of helping others. The 1st time I did a lot of unnecessary work like removing entire steering linkage ect:


1- Dis-connect Battery

2- Remove Left side Spark plugs

3- Unbolt Left header at motor. I left the forward bolt attached for now.

4- Jack up front of car and secure jack stands.

5- Disconnect left outer tie rod, turn steering wheel all the way left. Tie Tie rod to control arm to keep out of the way.

6- Disconnect header at collector.

7- Disconnect Kickdown rod at tranny bracket that goes to tranny.

8- Remove Kickdown bracket from Tranny 5/8” wrench (I left top rod intact and let the bracket hang out of the way. You can remove completely if so inclined.)

9- Tranny line(s) may need to be unbolted at tranny. (Mine did not)

10- Remove last header bolt at Engine.

11- With Header loose you can move it around to access Starter cable nuts at solenoid, then upper starter bolt using a short 5/8” box wrench and lastly the lower 11/16” Starter nut.

12- Now it’s a matter of moving around the header and starter to get it out.

13- Reverse this procedure for Installation.

14- I can now do this in about two hours.
 
Good stuff.
Thanks for sharing this info.
How hard was the initial installation for both sides?
I am seriously considering buying them, since you can't get Schumachers any more.
The long tubes would be better in the long run anyway..........
 
I could'nt say as I lowered the body over the Motor and trans. bolted to the Kframe with steering box,starter and headers installed.
 
Revised again . Didn't say what car.

Starter change 1968 Dart 440/TTI 1¾” long tubes/727 Auto/Manual steering box


I thought I would document what I did to change out my starter with this set up in hopes of helping others. The 1st time I did a lot of unnecessary work like removing entire steering linkage ect:


1- Dis-connect Battery

2- Remove Left side Spark plugs

3- Unbolt Left header at motor. I left the forward bolt attached for now.

4- Jack up front of car and secure jack stands.

5- Disconnect left outer tie rod, turn steering wheel all the way left. Tie Tie rod to control arm to keep out of the way.

6- Disconnect header at collector.

7- Disconnect Kickdown rod at tranny bracket that goes to tranny.

8- Remove Kickdown bracket from Tranny 5/8” wrench (I left top rod intact and let the bracket hang out of the way. You can remove completely if so inclined.)

9- Tranny line(s) may need to be unbolted at tranny. (Mine did not)

10- Remove last header bolt at Engine.

11- With Header loose you can move it around to access Starter cable nuts at solenoid, then upper starter bolt using a short 5/8” box wrench and lastly the lower 11/16” Starter nut.

12- Now it’s a matter of moving around the header and starter to get it out.

13- Reverse this procedure for Installation.

14- I can now do this in about two hours.
 
Man, that's a LOT of work. I have old pro-parts headers, un-hook battery and loosen 2 starter bolts and it falls right out.

Nice work documenting the process, these are the threads that I like to see that help others that will have to do the same thing at some point and are looking for guidance!
 
From TTI install manual
STARTERS:

THE FOLLOWING STARTERS HAVE BEEN FIT-CHECKED WITH THESE HEADERS AND FOUND THERE TO BE NO CLEARANCE ISSUES...

• Chrysler part no's: R53005984, 56027702AC

• Mopar Performance part no's: P5249644AB, P5007860, P4286522

• PowerMaster Performance XS torque starter no: 9523

• 440 applications with an 11" flywheel 143-tooth ring gear must use a RobbMc Performance starter #3005.
 
MoparLeo said:
From TTI install manual
STARTERS:

THE FOLLOWING STARTERS HAVE BEEN FIT-CHECKED WITH THESE HEADERS AND FOUND THERE TO BE NO CLEARANCE ISSUES...

• Chrysler part no's: R53005984, 56027702AC

• Mopar Performance part no's: P5249644AB, P5007860, P4286522

• PowerMaster Performance XS torque starter no: 9523

• 440 applications with an 11" flywheel 143-tooth ring gear must use a RobbMc Performance starter #3005.
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
YOU GUYS be WARNED , ROBMC , IS NOTED TO NOT STAND BEHIND THE STUFF HE SELLS , ASK ME HOW i KNOW !!
 
Bought
Dartnut said:
Good to know!
So, tell us about your experience with them..........
Click to expand...

I bought a pair of cnc`d victor knock off heads with complete rocker set up.
When I went to set up the rocker assem. , the exhaust rockers were not even finished/machined , before they anodized them. When I called him about them , he knew it ,and flat told me on the phone he would not stand behind them , that he was quiting that brand because of problems with them . I said , so I`m just supposed to eat them , he said yes .
GUESS WHO WOULD GET AN *** WHIPPING IF WE MEET !!! Lucky for him , he`s too far away !
The heads have been very good so far -------------
Buy from him ? ----------------------HELL NO ! --HE`S A PUNK !
 
famous bob said:
Bought


I bought a pair of cnc`d victor knock off heads with complete rocker set up.
When I went to set up the rocker assem. , the exhaust rockers were not even finished/machined , before they anodized them. When I called him about them , he knew it ,and flat told me on the phone he would not stand behind them , that he was quiting that brand because of problems with them . I said , so I`m just supposed to eat them , he said yes .
GUESS WHO WOULD GET AN *** WHIPPING IF WE MEET !!! Lucky for him , he`s too far away !
The heads have been very good so far -------------
Buy from him ? ----------------------HELL NO ! --HE`S A PUNK !
Click to expand...
Sorry about your experience, but at the same time it's good for everyone to know so they don't get screwed over like you did.
What an asshat!
 
This is why something happens to this motor out it comes and the new hemi goes in.. I am not fighting with headers and starters again. Or an LS will be placed there with a turbo...
 
Don't cringe now :D, I'm considering this to get away from Hooker FWs.
So outside the box, given the experience gained on these headers.....
How might you design the driver side header, before you even install it, to make the inevitable starter change job easier?
Would it be worth making one tube "removable"? If so, which tube would be most beneficial? At what points would you cut? TIA

upload_2020-11-3_8-12-59.png
 
I'll put fender well headers in or cut my entire inner fenders out before attempting tti.
 
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