Stroker kits, Ohio Crankshaft vs Hughes Engines

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Timmy's Toy

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I'm looking at big inch SB stroker kits from Ohio and Hughes based on a 360 block. Ohio has a 4.1 inch crank kit that'll go 425 inches with a 4.060 overbore, (418 with a 4.030 bore). Hughes is 4.180 stroke with a 4.030 bore for 426 inches. This will be a drag race only engine in my Dart. I'm going to use a Hughes girdle for sure. I like the Ohio because the rods are 6.2 inches giving me a slightly better rod ratio of 1.512.

Has anyone used either one? Comments? Suggestions?
 
Your wall thickness will determine which of those two kits you will want to consider.
 
I have seen that the Ohio machine work has produced cranks with an hour glass journal. Poor workmanship.

And some have complained about Hughes as well.

You should look at Molnar... Tom cares about the quality if his product. One of the shops that does work for me has bought dozens of his cranks with zero issues.

Buy on quality not just price or promises.
 
My 470 bb stroker has had an Ohio crank in it for over 20 years. It was still perfect a few years ago when the motor was checked over. Kim
 
I would suggest that if your block can be machined to a 4.030 bore then stick with that. Keep the cylinders as thick as possible for best ring seal.

I have not used Ohio crankshafts before but I have used Molnar and they are nice parts. I know a couple of engine builders that also recommend them over other brands.
 
Rocket said:
I would suggest that if your block can be machined to a 4.030 bore then stick with that. Keep the cylinders as thick as possible for best ring seal.

I have not used Ohio crankshafts before but I have used Molnar and they are nice parts. I know a couple of engine builders that also recommend them over other brands.
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I have a set of Molnar rods in my sons car and they are very nice. If money permits I’m going to sell my 422 Eagle assemble and see what he has when I rebuild it. I have used a lot of K1 stuff with zero issues and that is what is in the new 408 on my engine stand that I will be starting 2021 race season with
 
Ohhh and Vic Elinger at Wiseco Pistons in Ohio is a Mopar guy and great to deal with. He got my K1 rods and Wiseco Pistons for me.
 
Tom Molnar designed the K1 rods before that company was sold to the folks that own Wiseco (and a whole lot more!).

We put Wiseco pistons in my kids race engine. Nice stuff and the shop that did the work uses tons in the race motors he builds. Uses Molnar stuff, too.
 
Timmy's Toy said:
I'm looking at big inch SB stroker kits from Ohio and Hughes based on a 360 block. Ohio has a 4.1 inch crank kit that'll go 425 inches with a 4.060 overbore, (418 with a 4.030 bore). Hughes is 4.180 stroke with a 4.030 bore for 426 inches. This will be a drag race only engine in my Dart. I'm going to use a Hughes girdle for sure. I like the Ohio because the rods are 6.2 inches giving me a slightly better rod ratio of 1.512.

Has anyone used either one? Comments? Suggestions?
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I have only used the internally balanced 4-inch kits from Ohio and I got to tell you it's good stuff. Strong. I have the h beams and I lost an entire cylinder wall on an engine, 'nothing to do with their product' but the rod lumberjacked through it after a piston disintegrated ...but it hung on didn't do anything wrong to the crank and I called them up and they had a replacement Rod ready for me within two grams of the same weight. Had my info on file for bob weight too...great customer service. Great stuff.
New set of pistons and a rod and I'm getting it back together.
 
i'm using the hughes kit , it's a molnar crank , with molnar h beam rods . mine has worked well so far
it's a daily driver with over 10,000 miles on it only 550 hp 580 tq but it is a mild build made for daily driving , you could get a lot more out of this with better heads and cam
 
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Id guess whatever crank you buy, buy the bearings AFTER the crank has been inspected. Wouldnt want STD bearings on a slight crankshaft issue that needed to be corrected by a .001 or .010 grind... Ask Tony!
 
My engine builder has had 2 Molnar cranks break within 100 hrs on a marine engine. I just asked him today about these and the Ohio kits and he has never worked with the Ohio stuff but has an engine builder friend with 2 and is going to question him on his experience with them for me this week. Also I called Ohio crank today and it isn't on their website but they do sell the 4.1" crank alone for 840.00. I'm thinking the Previous poster may be right. Buy the pieces not as a kit and have my machinist double check everything and make it perfect if needed before getting the bearings. Also I noticed while looking at their rods that they offer a 6.250" rod. I remember the original poster mentioning the rods. That makes for a 1.524 RTSR. What are you guys doing to your blocks to strengthen them for these kits?
 
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Dmopower said:
My engine builder has had 2 Molnar cranks break within 100 hrs on a marine engine. I just asked him today about these and the Ohio kits and he has never worked with the Ohio stuff but has an engine builder friend with 2 and is going to question him on his experience with them for me this week. Also I called Ohio crank today and it isn't on their website but they do sell the 4.1" crank alone for 840.00. I'm thinking the Previous poster may be right. Buy the pieces not as a kit and have my machinist double check everything and make it perfect if needed before getting the bearings. Also I noticed while looking at their rods that they offer a 6.250" rod. I remember the original poster mentioning the rods. That makes for a 1.524 RTSR. What are you guys doing to your blocks to strengthen them for these kits?
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Can you find out for us the horsepower rating on the marine engines that broke please. I’m almost ready to make a purchase.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Can you find out for us the horsepower rating on the marine engines that broke please. I’m almost ready to make a purchase.
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I will ask and share what I learn. I'm waiting on this info to make my purchase also. I saw this thread and thought I would share what little I know.
 
Dmopower said:
I will ask and share what I learn. I'm waiting on this info to make my purchase also. I saw this thread and thought I would share what little I know.
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i had an Eagle 4 inch crank and Eagle rods in my 422 for five years. I bought the assembly new with an R3 block but I have never really been an Eagle part user. It’s time to freshen it so I’m seeing what’s out there.
 
pittsburghracer said:
i had an Eagle 4 inch crank and Eagle rods in my 422 for five years. I bought the assembly new with an R3 block but I have never really been an Eagle part user. It’s time to freshen it so I’m seeing what’s out there.
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Same here. And the Ohio and Molnar are the only things I have found over 4". I been looking at that Ritter block but I think it's going to have to wait for now. If I go the Ohio route I will use the 6.25" rods and 4.1" crank in my 340 block.
 
Ohio grinds and finishes all their crankshafts, that's a sign of who to buy a kit from...the ones who machine and check it ...and not some parts house.
 
I used a K1 4” in my 408 and have a BPE 4.125 in my 434, both checked out great and have held up well. I don’t ever see me buying anything from Hughes again.
 
I recently purchased a 4.1 kit from Ohio crank earlier this year for my next build with custom dome pistons from wiseco. .03 over will be a 418. They did it pretty fast considering COVID. About 6-7 week if I recall. I dealt with Scott and honestly all around service and communication was great. They did do the crank/grinding in house as I understood. Scott claimed this rotating assy is good to 1000 hp. The block is another story lol. Taking that as well as everything as delivered so far I’m pretty happy with it. I did have rotating assy at machine shop. They mocked it up to check deck clearance as well as main clearance, they didn’t have anything negative to say. I am using a 360 magnum block that I had sonic checked prior. Instead of a girdle I opted for sd concepts billet aluminum main caps with arp studs and had machine shop line bore it. Theory is aluminum caps help absorb harmonics to main web when using steel rods. A lot of big block guys swear by it. I haven’t seen too many small block guys try it but I guess I’ll find out how well it works. Lol
 
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When I hear about TWO brand name cranks breaking with similar, low hours on them, I would be looking elsewhere, not the crank. Balance, type of dampener used atc.
 
Bewy said:
When I hear about TWO brand name cranks breaking with similar, low hours on them, I would be looking elsewhere, not the crank. Balance, type of dampener used atc.
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They warranted both cranks and it was replaced with another brand same rods ect. The engine is still running.
 
i'VE USED mOLNAR CRANKS AND RODS FO R years never had a problem , all the parts check out perfect . using the hughes kit on my 426 stroker so far 8,000 miles nothing broke yet only in the 500 hp+ range though nothing radical also using the girdle or whatever you call it
 
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X2 on the BPE crank. I think Rod offers smallblock cranks up to 4.25”. I called him up and explained what direction I wanted to go and he suggested I go with the 4” arm. He spec’d the whole assembly and sold it to me as a package. Awesome guy to talk to.
 
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