Mopar ECU with points distributor?

I've got a '69 Jeep with a V-6 engine.
Its got a Prestolite distributor with points.
I'd like to use this to trigger the Mopar box.
Hoping it will improve performance, but also nice to add a little Mopar to this pre-Chrysler Jeep!
Has anyone done something similar?
Was wondering if you kept the same point gap, and original ballast?
And did you notice any improvement in starting, idling, etc.?

I don't remember you might do some research and find out IF IF GM ever used an HEI in the odd fire V6s If so drop that in and go.

(I assume you know about even/ odd fire, and that the dist would be different)

You CAN trigger a Mopar ECU with points. On the original harness, you take the dist. connector on the ECU side and tap the exposed terminal of the connector to ground it will trigger. However IT MIGHT change rotor phasing I don't know. That is, I don't know for sure if they trigger when the points close or when the points open. This would be the issue.

You might also find out if there is a Pertronix application for these They made the old V6's with both Prestolite and Delco dist's. Be very careful, rotors and caps for them 'was a zoo'

A very fast Google..........

hei for odd fire GM v6 - Google Search

Buick Odd Fire V6 HEI Distributor

HEI's EXPOSED

Also keep in mind that "back in the day" there were several aftermarket points triggered systems
1...Tiger/ SST/ other CDI systems
2...Various brand name and nearly no-name transistor switch systems. I'll think of one in a second, something mag, electro mag...........(Judson) here we go......
The Vintage JUDSON ELECTRONIC MAGNETO

3...Also the present day MSD box can be triggered by points

Jalopy Journal claims you can use this circuit to trigger a GM 4 pin. I have not tried this

Technical - How to trigger HEI using stock points dist?




AND this site claims there is "more to it"

General Motors HEI Ignition Module For Points

Found this. Looks like rotor phasing is definately an issue with a Mopar box. This guy just undergapped the points to change points firing point in relation to rotor. It remains to be seen how this would pan out in a V6 dist

Dirt Cheap Electronic Ignition

He says:'

"You need to change the point gap. A standard breaker point ignition fires when the points open, the electronic ignition will fire when the points close. If you don't regap the points the ignition will fire when the rotor is between posts on the distributor cap. Most likely you will have to make the point gap as small as possible.

yes, it will work. It will also extend the life of the points too as they are 'breaking' almost no current, will not get any arc transfer or burning. There was a motorcycle guy that used an ECU for his points ignition and said it worked great. The ECU really just amplifies the tiny switching current of the magnetic trigger enough to operate a high current (the big TO-3) switch. The TO-3 can almost be used by itself for this purpose but you might as well just use the 'points' at that 'point'.

See the B and C on the GM HEI module? I bet that's calling out the BASE and COLLECTOR of the transistor circuit....maybe. Id actually think the base would be the G but the transistor circuit is so adaptable that it could be wired in a number of ways to be a switch.

Thanks everyone, food for thought. it'll be a little while before I get this hooked up but I'll follow up with a report. Very interesting gm links too!

"Back in the day" there were all kinds of points-triggered transistor electronic ignition add-ons. These were basically a transistor switch---the points switched the transistor, which lowered the switching current through the points, and the transistor switched the coil. There were brands I've forgotten, and kits that never really HAD a brand. Some were advertised in the dark, torn, ratty backpages of Mechanics Illustrated and similar rags.

If Google still worked "worth a crap" you could probably find some of these circuits