Ignition switch/starter relay/ballast wiring help- Painless Kit - FIXED
That is impossible if you are using a Mopar ignition switch?
I see this from the manual
"PINK: 14gauge wire, printed[ENGINE SECTION A] #920 >>TO COIL (IGNITION HOT)>>,this wire comes from the 30 amp COIL fuse. This wire has power anytime the ignition switch is in the ON and START positions"
THIS IS INCORRECT if you are using an original Mopar ignition switch. The switch, not the harness, is what regulates what power is provided and when.
Agreed here. That is a typo in the Manual, it will only have power in both RUN and START positions if you jump IG1 and IG2 together as stated elsewhere in the Manual(read below).
The orange wire in the painless kit that is connected to Ignition 1 on the switch DOES NOT SEND POWER TO THE COIL(you can see in the rear fuse panel picture, the large orange wire does power most of the other accessory fuses). The pink wire in the kit connected to Ignition 2 does send power to the coil via the fuse(only in start). This is why it seemed like it wanted to start but then dies when switching key back to run. In order to get it working, you need to provide power to the pink coil wire when the key is in the run position. This is achieved by providing a jumper between IG1 and IG2 at the switch as outlined in the Painless manual.
In order to provide the separate function of bypassing the resistor for cranking(which is the function of the original factory brown wire from IG2), you can connect a jumper wire from the coil side of the resistor to the SOL pin on the starter relay, as I did. This provides 12V to the coil during cranking only(and is also mentioned elsewhere in the Painless manual).
I think the main source of confusion here is that the Painless Manual does not specifically mention Mopar ignition switches. It only states "GM DASH MOUNTED." If it had read, "GM AND MOPAR DASH MOUNTED," there would have been absolutely no issues with install.
Overall, I will say that installation of this harness was, in fact, pretty straight-forward. The wiring is all much longer than is needed so you end up with TONS of extra wiring you can re-use for other purposes. The first few pages of the manual, PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES, are the most important. They are the ones that help you locate some key circuits. For example, the neutral safety switch circuits come bundled with the INTERIOR section of the wiring for floor shifter-mounted switches. If you need to route these circuits to a transmission-mounted switch, you pull them out of the INTERIOR section and re-bundle them to the ENGINE section. Just need to do the installation along with the book, page by page.
Hope this info can help someone.
