Hood clearance

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Cuda 1964

Cuda 1964

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Have a 64 barracuda going to put in a 318 with a weiand dual plane manifold and a carter afb can anyone tell me if there is going to be a clearance problem with the hood? Thanks
 
How about a photo of the intake and which air cleaner you plan to use?
 
Don't have a photo of the intake right now but it is a 8007 stealth square bore and just a aftermarket air cleaner
 
It'll depend on how tall each item is. What's on the car now?
 
That intake is probably 2-3" higher than stock, so, you'll need a fairly short air cleaner. You probably won't know how much until you pull the old manifold, set the new one on the engine with the carb, and measure it. I haven't used that exact manifold, but, I've put on various Edlebrock and Offy intakes. Some, like Torkers and Dual Ports had no clearance problems. Others needed a short air cleaner......or like the stock unsilenced ones, a shorter filter element would sometimes suffice. Oh, and remember to put a shorter stud in too before you slam the hood with that new setup! Seen many a hood damaged that way.
 
Tried to upload a pic but didn't work I want to thank you for your information
 
I looked at some photos of that manifold online. It's hard to tell just exactly how much higher it is over the stock one. I doesn't look ridiculously higher though, so, it should be doable with the right air cleaner and stud. If your can is an automatic, you'll need to change or modify your kickdown linkage, accelerator cable, and it's bracket too.
 
Oh, I just realized that you're going to pull the 273 and put in a 318, correct? There are a few differences between those two engines that you will want to address. Depending on the year of the block, you may have to modify the engine mount brackets. If your car is an automatic, you will need to get a bushing for the crankshaft to reduce the size of the hole the converter rests in. If your car is a manual trans, the 318 may not have a finished crank for the pilot bushing (most automatic cranks didn't get that final bit of machine work). If that's the case, you can either machine out the hole in the crank to the proper size, cut down a bushing (that's what I did), or use the later Magnum pilot BEARING that fits in the converter register. The only other thing I can think of at the moment is that the later smog heads have a clearance problem on the driver's side with the stock exhaust manifolds. You usually have to grind some metal off the head to get enough clearance to allow the manifold to bolt down flat against the flange. If you don't do that metal grinding, you will at best have an exhaust leak, at worst you will crack the manifold. Care must be taken on how much metal you remove and where. Too much in the wrong place and you can break into a water passage. Trial fit the manifold by hand and you will see where it interferes. Take off a little at a time until you just get enough clearance to bolt the manifold down without hitting that protruding section.
 
The 318 is a 73 and both are automatics as for exhaust manifolds I was planning on Sanderson Headers and going to use my 904 push button trans
 
Converter button diameter will be different, so, you'll need the conversion bushing for the later crank. Are those chassis headers? I'm not familiar with how those fit.
 
I don't see anything on their website that fits the early A-bodies. What is the part number of the ones you're looking at?
 
I haven't heard any feed back on how they fit. The price doesn't look too bad if they fit good. Are you hopping your engine up a bit where you need them? If it's a mild engine, the stock manifold should work just fine up to 6000 RPM or so depending on your cam. I've had my 273 HP over 6000 with the stock manifolds....both intake and exhaust. the 318 will breath a bit harder, but, if you're running stock cast iron heads and a mild cam, headers aren't necessary IMO.
 
cudamark said:
I haven't heard any feed back on how they fit. The price doesn't look too bad if they fit good. Are you hopping your engine up a bit where you need them? If it's a mild engine, the stock manifold should work just fine up to 6000 RPM or so depending on your cam. I've had my 273 HP over 6000 with the stock manifolds....both intake and exhaust. the 318 will breath a bit harder, but, if you're running stock cast iron heads and a mild cam, headers aren't necessary IMO.
Click to expand...
cudamark said:
I haven't heard any feed back on how they fit. The price doesn't look too bad if they fit good. Are you hopping your engine up a bit where you need them? If it's a mild engine, the stock manifold should work just fine up to 6000 RPM or so depending on your cam. I've had my 273 HP over 6000 with the stock manifolds....both intake and exhaust. the 318 will breath a bit harder, but, if you're running stock cast iron heads and a mild cam, headers aren't necessary IMO.
Click to expand...
Having it bored 40 over with 4 stroker kit 302 swirl port heads and a 625 Carter 625 abf along with a comp cam set
 
I USE THE Edelbrock D4B dual plane plane intake manifold and the 273 commando factory recommended filter size and i even have a 1/4 spacer between AVS2 650 CFM carb airhorn and air cleaner base... yes, it is close, but does NOT touch even when I am laying hard into the throttle slamming gears.. however I do use a engine torque strap that have rubber bushings that let it flex a little...
The one photo shows it with hood fully shut !
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20201018_161117.jpg
 
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I'm running a Mopar M1 intake with a Holley 750 and a K&N 3" filter with a drop base and clears ok, but it's probably as close as Cliff's Air Cleaner is.

IMG_2184.JPEG
 
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