Ebay GT45 + 5.9 Magnum + E85 blow thru

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I plan on tuning it myself. I’ll just ease into, street tuning. I’m collecting everything to do full sequential. Ordered a 36-1 trigger wheel, going to use the Magnum distributor for cam sync and am considering LS coils.
 
I plan on tuning it myself. I’ll just ease into, street tuning. I’m collecting everything to do full sequential. Ordered a 36-1 trigger wheel, going to use the Magnum distributor for cam sync and am considering LS coils.

I used the Jeep cam sensor for cam position and the LS coils. You will need to get the adapter for the Jeep sensor, SD Concepts makes them. It's nice and small as compared to the distributor base.
 
Agree ^^^ Iused the same.

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I contacted SD. Never got a response. So I’m using a modified magnum distributor.
 
Andy F sells one
But I think his uses a ford sensor. But pretty much the same concept as the SD one
 
Got it started in full sequential mode using D585 after market coils, 36-1 trigger wheel and a magnum distributor that was bobbed with a precision hack saw. Lol. Still working thru some bugs which I think might be sync loss related but it started right up.
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Got it started in full sequential mode using D585 after market coils, 36-1 trigger wheel and a magnum distributor that was bobbed with a precision hack saw. Lol. Still working thru some bugs which I think might be sync loss related but it started right up.
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Coming along. What brand coils are those? Can't make it out.
 
Subcom, please do not take this as criticism, but your crank sensor mount seems suspect to me. If it is flimsy at all you will fight it. That sensor and it’s air gap are crucial and if you can grab it by hand and change the air gap at all, vibration will do the same thing when it’s running. It could just be the pictures but I would make that mount much stronger.
 
Subcom, please do not take this as criticism, but your crank sensor mount seems suspect to me. If it is flimsy at all you will fight it. That sensor and it’s air gap are crucial and if you can grab it by hand and change the air gap at all, vibration will do the same thing when it’s running. It could just be the pictures but I would make that mount much stronger.
You’re right. The Megasquirt manual calls that out as being very crucial. Mine isn’t the thickest material but it does have a gusset behind it you can’t see.
I got the engine running again after finding the cam sensor had a bad connection. The tooth/compound logger looks good now for both the crank trigger and cam sensor. The idle just hunts like crazy, swinging the AFRs to really lean which was a problem I had running on the distributor and fixed by massaging the VE table. Gonna take some more tweaking but it’s getting closer. Thanks.
 
Excellent. It took me a while to dial in the idle air control tables also. That caused a lot of hunting at idle. Once you get the iac counts under control the ve tables will likely need to be retuned. But you will have lightning fast starts. Then you can focus on cold start.
 
I've been running a stock magnum bottom end, E85 and turbo in my 3250lb Aussie charger for a couple of years now. I run around 10.2 to down the quarter. I'm surprised how long the bottom has lasted but it finally let go last night when I wount up the boost to 625 horsepower at the wheels. It's breathing quite badly and has a compression down on one cylinder so I'm thinking factory piston issue. Was amazing how long it lasted. Hope this build goes well for you because I was really happy with mine for a long time
Where in oz? I’m in Sydney, just about to add boost to my 440
 
I built a new cold side to clean it up, plumbed the meth injection to the compressor housing and took it for its maiden voyage. Starts right up, cruises well but I’m still getting sync loss issues I need to root out before I put it under any load.
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Looks great! Been following this thread since the beginning. Getting ready to do my own. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I’m going to cleanup and sale my old turbo setup eventually if you want a good head start on your project.
 
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