I have a few questions.
1) When installed with the correct pedal free play, etc. does the cluth fork tilt toward the front of the car? If not we will have a problem.
I believe it does. I'll look again when I install the new parts.
2) measuring from the flat area on the pressure plate how high or low are the fingers? The answer is usually some where between -.25 to .25 inches. If it is below the flat area in the pressure plate that can be an issue that is fairly eaily to correct.
Don't understand the reference points. Remember - I'm pretty thick headed.
While you are at it measure the height of each finger with everythung bolted down to ensure they are are within a 1/16" from the others. If the fingers are not even it is time to scrap the pressure plate and disc.
This clutch assembly is toast. I'll measure the new one on assembly though.
Definitely fix the z bar geometry. If any of the linkage is in a bind that means that all of the linkage is in a bind from pedal to the clutch fork rod.
I can dig that!
If you are having issues disengaging the clutch, etc. and it was driven that way it might be time for a new clutch.
Yep. The 'new' clutch is being replaced.
Lastly, is the .007 the total runout or half of that number? .007 TIR dies not require any corrective action as the spec is .010 TIR or less
.007 is total runout. I've read about .007 offset pins. If I can get the offset to near zero, I'll do it just because I can.
