Time to start over and punt on my block?

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The short block is already assembled, but was bored, and honed with plates. Is the wall going to be affected after putting in the insert? I'm not trying to ask a stupid question here, just trying to learn.
a percentage chance from my own eyes on motors that my son does. 99% that hole moves that cylinder wall when torqued. You changed the integrity of the pull on that hole.

Just my experience of what I have seen with my own eyes. No guesses from me

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I talked to the machine shop this morning, and his thought was that since the head bolt hole is far enough away from the cylinder, that is would most likely be all right. He noted that a small block Chevy would be another matter where the holes are much closer. Also, he reaffirmed that hitting the water jacket was not a concern. Since the insert will seal out the water on the outer threads with Loctite, and just run sealer on the bolts as suggested here. If I am not sure, he said. I can empty out the block and have him look it over.
 
Wait a minute nobody has stated the obvious here!
Yes that block is junk! Send it to me! Start over again....lol.:poke::D...
 
Wait a minute nobody has stated the obvious here!
Yes that block is junk! Send it to me! Start over again....lol.:poke::D...

No somebody beat you to it, said they wanted to make a coffee table out of it. :p Anyway, I still may have Mr. Ted King do a couple things to the block if I decide to take it back down.
 
No somebody beat you to it, said they wanted to make a coffee table out of it. :p Anyway, I still may have Mr. Ted King do a couple things to the block if I decide to take it back down.
Well you're in good hands.. although not the fastest turnaround in the world LOL..
My motor has been getting a thrashing for some years now. My best friend's motor alone not driven very much in his trans am which is actually a Oldsmobile motor is doing just fine. Last week I broke in the cam on a Pontiac 400 in a 65 GTO from Ted and Ron and everything went great as expected..
 
Just me being curious, the thread pitch looks like it's for 20 / INCH as opposed to 13/ inch, am I seeing things or what?

What you are seeing is the thread pitch for the outside of the insert. The inside is ,of course, is the 1/2"-13
 
Not even close, maybe 500 at the very most.

In other news, I just happen to have a fresh tube of this stuff around.

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I wouldn’t use that I’ve tried it on my water pump bolts and it still wept coolant out. I found that stuff as no flex and goes flaky when dried and will leak through vibration it would allow coolant to pass through . Ended up using aviation cement non hardening for removal.
 
I wouldn’t use that I’ve tried it on my water pump bolts and it still wept coolant out. I found that stuff as no flex and goes flaky when dried and will leak through vibration it would allow coolant to pass through . Ended up using aviation cement non hardening for removal.

After reading the rest of these posts , I thinl I`d epoxy a stud in it ans have the cyl rehoned , and fugitaboutit .
 
I seem to remember thinkin I foooked up drilling an exhaust manifold stud on 318 heads. I later lernt that the stud went into the water jacket by design...
 
After reading the rest of these posts , I thinl I`d epoxy a stud in it ans have the cyl rehoned , and fugitaboutit .

That is advice that is not lost on me. One of my friends and I were kicking this
around yesterday, and kind of came up with the same conclusion. Plus, there are couple of things I want to address that I would need to take it back apart anyway.
 
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Measure down into the bolt hole how far the stud would go. If these’s room mix up some JBWeld and carefully stuff some in the hole leading to the water jacket with a screwdriver. You can also fill in the bolt hole up to where the stud will end up. Let it sit overnight and then if needed use a thread chaser to clean up anything in the top treads. Install the stud with Teflon sealer and get busy building your power plant so you can go have fun.
 
Just me being curious, the thread pitch looks like it's for 20 / INCH as opposed to 13/ inch, am I seeing things or what?

That threw me at first too. Then I kept seeing "insert" being thrown around. He's having a thread insert installed.
 
I thought I would update this for future reference for those who might need to do this somewhere down the line. I ended up tearing down the block, and taking it down to the machine shop. I had started the process of putting the Time sert in by renting a mag drill to get the hole in straight. I did the counter sink, and tapping, then had the machine shop finish the installation of the insert since I did not like the way it seemed to be going in. They actually said my work was good, and popped it right in. They did hone it with a plate, but not because there was a fear that the cylinders were out of round, but because the prior machine shop had burnished the cylinder walls badly. Just for that fact alone, I'm glad I took it to them. I have added a picture of the insert, plus one of it installed for those who are curious.

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I thought I would update this for future reference for those who might need to do this somewhere down the line. I ended up tearing down the block, and taking it down to the machine shop. I had started the process of putting the Time sert in by renting a mag drill to get the hole in straight. I did the counter sink, and tapping, then had the machine shop finish the installation of the insert since I did not like the way it seemed to be going in. They actually said my work was good, and popped it right in. They did hone it with a plate, but not because there was a fear that the cylinders were out of round, but because the prior machine shop had burnished the cylinder walls badly. Just for that fact alone, I'm glad I took it to them. I have added a picture of the insert, plus one of it installed for those who are curious.

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How did they determine the bores were burnished??
 
How did they determine the bores were burnished??

Honestly, I'm not sure other then looking at it. That said, since I was making the switch from bolts to studs was the other reason the block needed the hone job that I forgot to mention.
 
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