I'm looking to improve the steering reponse on my 65 Barracuda. All the linkage is new and I have a new 16:1 box, but it's still slop in the steering going down the road. Firm feel sells an idler arm with bearing inserts (is this a kit you have to install or is a complete arm?) and a brace for the pitman arm. Anyone used these and is it worth the price they are asking?
Firm feel steering improvement?
- Thread starter Valkman
- Start date
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Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
Before you throw new parts at it have you checked the fit of the column shaft to the steering box coupling? I found that I had quite a bit of play between them. 65'
Last edited:
spl440
Everybody's Fool
I have also seen the sliders inside the coupling rotated 90 degrees before, adding some slop and an easy fix.
Commando66
She's a beaut Clark!
I would start at the steering coupler. Are all of the steering parts new all the way out to the spindles?
I agree with checking the steering coupler. Also, not sure what you mean by "slop," but a recirculating ball steering setup isn't gonna feel like rack and pinion no matter what you do. But it should track in a straight line on a level road without your hand even on the wheel. If it wanders and needs constant correction, I'd be thinking your alignment is off.
No play there I'm using a u-jolt
I know this won't get it perfectly tight, I'm just asking if someone has benefitted from using these Firm Feel parts? I'm not trying fix it I'm trying to improve it
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Buddy of mine replaced his leaking box twice. I convinced him to get a ff box if for no other reason than to avoid leaks. He wishes he got the stage 3 now, but it was a super improvement over the stock box.
I wouldn't bother with a box replacement though unless you change the pitman, idler, and all the tie rods too. The slop is all tolerance stacking from lots of worn points. Your control arm bushings should also be in good shape if you expect reasonable handling.
I wouldn't bother with a box replacement though unless you change the pitman, idler, and all the tie rods too. The slop is all tolerance stacking from lots of worn points. Your control arm bushings should also be in good shape if you expect reasonable handling.
Guys Guys, as I stated in my 1st post, my suspension is all new, there is nothing with my steering, I just asking if anyone has used these parts and if there was an improvement. These parts aren't cheap, so I'm trying to determine whether they are worth it.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Yeah thanks for the input, but I wasn't asking about the box?I just said it was an improvement
1973 valiant
1973 valiant
The company firm feel is pretty good I heard of that set up and I was told it is an improvement and if you have the cash to do it I would do itYeah thanks for the input, but I wasn't asking about the box?
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Yeah thanks for the input, but I wasn't asking about the box?
I use their idler and like it. It did tighten up my linkage quite a lot! My pitman is still stock though, it was plenty tight still..
I've only used their roller bearing idler kit on 68 and later k frames. It is not designed for stud mount idlers. Not a 100% sure what the 65 may have.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OP you need to check all moving parts--and non moving parts from top to bottom. This requires two people, one to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth, and the second to look for play. Be methodical and careful and look at EVERYTHING from the steering wheel to the tires. Look for unwanted movement, in the top shaft to the coupler, from the coupler to the shaft into the box, look for differing movement between steering shaft and pitman. Look for up/ down and side to side bearing play in the sector shaft, and so on, one step at a time.
Do you know the proper way to check ball joints? Read the shop manual.
Remember that steering play is ADDITIVE. a little bit here a little bit there. Gets worse at the tire
AND do not forget to look for (unwanted) movement between the K member and the steering box, in other words, loose mounting bolts!!!
Do you know the proper way to check ball joints? Read the shop manual.
Remember that steering play is ADDITIVE. a little bit here a little bit there. Gets worse at the tire
AND do not forget to look for (unwanted) movement between the K member and the steering box, in other words, loose mounting bolts!!!
Again nothing wrong with my steering, all new components, just asking if these Firm Feel parts help.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Earlier you said "but it's still slop in the steering going down the road"
So which is it?
Just because it's "new" does not mean it's "good." NEVER assume
With any worm gear type steering there's an inherent delay with on-center feel, regardless on how well tuned the setup is. I'm not trying to rebuff your suggestions in fact I greatly apreciate it, it's just not what I was asking about. I guess I should have worded my 1st post better, sorry for that
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Now you are doing exactly what I warned against.........making assumptions. There is no "inherent play" in worm gear systems any worse or different than any other type steering. If you are unhappy with the "play" you need to go back over the system and find out what "it is."
Also keep in mind that tires (the type, the size, the quality, etc) will make a TREMENDOUS difference in the "feel" of steering. Even with raidials, some tires give a "sloppier" feel to the front end and handling. Also keep in mind that REAR suspension problems can easily be mistaken for "front end slop". Something as simple as a loost/ worn leaf shackle.
Also keep in mind that tires (the type, the size, the quality, etc) will make a TREMENDOUS difference in the "feel" of steering. Even with raidials, some tires give a "sloppier" feel to the front end and handling. Also keep in mind that REAR suspension problems can easily be mistaken for "front end slop". Something as simple as a loost/ worn leaf shackle.
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