Nitrous pics

-

aaronk785

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
1,012
Reaction score
846
Location
westmoreland ks.
Could I see some pics of your nitrous set ups. Putting a kit on my car and need some ideas for a clean install. Mostly interested in under hood pics. Thank you.
 
20191005_171814.jpg
NOS Power Shot
 
I'm still in the process of setting it up. But.. here.. regulators changed to magnafuel to work with the fuel pump.
Edit -more info would probably be nice
Nx gemini nx kit (perimeter plate max 300 shot)
Magnafuel Quickstar 300 pump/filter with -8 Parker 8600 pushlok up to regulator block, feeding 2 magnafuel 9633 regulators.
1 regulator feeds carb -6 to each bowl
2nd feeds fuel solenoid -6 to solenoid
I am wiring in a NOS mini 2 stage progressive in case I get froggy later on and add a 2nd stage. Nos acc output on the controller will engage the msd timing drop from the digital 6 box.
IMG_20201108_184953_941.jpg
20201102_181738.jpg
20201108_174234.jpg

20201114_212949.jpg
20201114_212928.jpg
 
Last edited:
Could I see some pics of your nitrous set ups. Putting a kit on my car and need some ideas for a clean install. Mostly interested in under hood pics. Thank you.
What kind of system are you doing and how are you hooking it up?..
 
It's just a single plate NX system with a stand alone fuel supply of 110 race fuel. I have enough line to mount all the silenoids on the inner fender if i choose. Just needed some ideas. Later i will buy another plate and do two 50 shots on my t ram. My fuel cell for the nitrous is in the trunk. I wanted to go under hood like you but no room.
 
I have enough line to mount all the silenoids on the inner fender if i choose.

Just my opinion: Don't mount the fuel solenoids on the fender. Mount them as close to the jets as possible. The nitrous has a pressure of approx 1,000 lbs. The fuel has a pressure of approx 6 lbs. If the fuel solenoids are to far from the jets, the time it takes for the fuel to reach the jets, will cause the system to be momentaraly lean. I have my fuel solenoid mounted right on the distribution block, and my nitrous solenoid mounted on the fender. Both solenoids mounted close to the jets is OK.
I usually spray about 175 HP, but have run as high as 225 hp. on stock pistons.
I'm not saying I haven't broken parts, but I get away with a lot.
 
In the pictures you can see on the passenger side I have the nitrous solenoid and it's in between the dual quads. They run longer lines to the far out sides of the carburetors behind and in front. Also with The Purge kit to make sure I have nitrous all the way up to the solenoid. (And to show off which is about all I've done so far LOL...)
Now on the fuel side I have circulating fuel going from the tank through the fuel pump a filter and up to the solenoid but teeing off of that back to a regulator to keep back pressure and dumping back into the tank. Different jetting charge have different fuel pressures.. the one that came with my Edelbrock plates ask for 5 1/2 to 7 lb I think. Just remember that means when the system is open not when at standstill because when the solenoid opens the pressure will drop. so it's running at about 8 pounds but when the solenoid opens it drops to about six and a half...
The fuel side also runs through a low pressure switch. I also have a full throttle switch. I also have a window switch. I also run a timing start retard. All of this has an activation switch on the dash, next to a fuel pump switch which has to be thrown so the low pressure switch doesn't activate. Which is also next to the bottle blanket switch to heat the bottle. Which is next to the purge button.. which I have my bottle behind the passenger seat so I can reach over and crack it open on the Fly...
 
Oh and I forgot to mention I have an activation button on the 4 speed shifter knob if all that stuff is in play and I decide to push the button...
 
I run a NOS mini 2 stage progressive with a window switch on each stage because it's a 4 gear. The first stage controls a Big Shot kit and the second stage turns the electric cutouts on 100 rpm before the kit activates. I have a WOT switch, clutch switch and a shifter button with a bypass switch that is usually bypassed.
 
I run a NOS mini 2 stage progressive with a window switch on each stage because it's a 4 gear. The first stage controls a Big Shot kit and the second stage turns the electric cutouts on 100 rpm before the kit activates. I have a WOT switch, clutch switch and a shifter button with a bypass switch that is usually bypassed.
Sounds simple...
 
As far as setting up the system you need a flow tool which is essentially a fuel pressure guage with a .073 jet. You set the regulator pressure at 5.5psi to start with the flow tool and drop a half pound up or down to fatten or lean out the tune. Regardless of using a 100 shot or a 175 shot etc always baseline the pressure regulator with the flow tool.

I also recommend a fuel filter and a nitrous filter. My fuel filter is after the regulator so i can flow through it. My nitrous filter is before the 1/4 turn shut off handle by the shifter.

Also note that i get my tach signal for the progressive/window switch thing from the pertronix rev limiter box. The low deck Accell cable drive tach was converted to a Petronix with a matching coil so no place to get a tach signal hence the rev limiter box. Waylon in the 8 track too..
 
Last edited:
My slant six fuel system. Two inline electric pumps side by side (each one can handle the system in case of a pump failure). They are approx 50 g/h at 50 psi. Feed a return flow regulator set for 15 psi, which in turn feeds two "holley" style regulators (one set for 5 psi for the carb, and the other adjustable from 6 psi for the nitrous).
Control is fuel pump switch on, arming switch on, full throttle switch on.
I do have a purge system, but usually don't use it, as I have not seen any difference in my runs, between purge and no purge.
 
Can I use the ground wire to activate the selenoids. Less chance off shorting out if a wire gets pinched or something.
 
Can I use the ground wire to activate the selenoids. Less chance off shorting out if a wire gets pinched or something.
I wouldn't see any reason why not but you still have to have a power wire going to them. I just used fuses coming off of any power lead to them.. also I activated them with a relay.. on my set up the low power activation wire to the relay first goes through a arming switch then to my activation switch on my shifter then through the full throttle switch up near the carburetors. Also it sends a low voltage signal to the timing retard. on the ground side of the relay it's hooked through the low pressure switch on the fuel system and ends up at the window switch.... Any wire coming off of the initial power wire has a fuse...
 
Thanks. I am using relays on everything. Nitrous, fuel pump, and heater. My timing will be adjusted manually . Probably at 30 total. Also using a fuel pressure switch that kills both selenoids.
 
Last edited:
As far as setting up the system you need a flow tool which is essentially a fuel pressure guage with a .073 jet. You set the regulator pressure at 5.5psi to start with the flow tool and drop a half pound up or down to fatten or lean out the tune. Regardless of using a 100 shot or a 175 shot etc always baseline the pressure regulator with the flow tool.

I also recommend a fuel filter and a nitrous filter. My fuel filter is after the regulator so i can flow through it. My nitrous filter is before the 1/4 turn shut off handle by the shifter.

Also note that i get my tach signal for the progressive/window switch thing from the pertronix rev limiter box. The low deck Accell cable drive tach was converted to a Petronix with a matching coil so no place to get a tach signal hence the rev limiter box. Waylon in the 8 track too..

Why would a guy use a .073 flow tool, if his gas jet is smaller and recommended to run at 8 lbs of pressure ?
Why not clamp the right size jet in a hose and set it exactly what ur supposed to run?
 
-
Back
Top