Rookie balancer mistake
Copy that!
Thanks. Its gonna be great!
As pointed out, you can NOT a measure your press fit like that. So let’s cover some crap that’s in this thread.
Fluidamper has instructions. They are quite plain. They call for a PRESS FIT of .005-.0015 which is why I said it needs to be .0008-.00010, right in the middle. If you can’t hold that tolerance, you shouldn’t be doing the machine work.
It’s NOT a Toyota. There are some FD’s that require different press fit. That’s why there are instructions with the damper. If it slips on, it will not function correctly. That’s right from FD’s mouth, not some guy on the internet who has never used a FD or anything other than an OE damper. They NEED press fit to work.
Ever see a crank snout that is all pocked and gouged up??? That’s the first clue the damper isn’t working. Sometimes it’s because the damper is just junk for any number of reasons or there wasn’t enough press fit. Loc-tite will NOT fix it.
Too much press fit and it can split the key way. When that happens, it’s a mess. It can happen when installing the damper, but I’ve seen them fail on the car. Pretty hard to unf*%k that when they let go. Again, that’s why there is a tolerance.
Do NOT machine the end of the snout to make it the same length as any other damper. It’s nOT made wrong. It is thicker than an OE damper. There is a reason. And that reason is to get the weight of the inertia ring heavy enough without making the OD of the damper any bigger (7.25 inches is all the bigger it can be...if you go bigger than that you run into other issues) so to get the weight they needed they made it thicker. IIRC, Chrysler made the Hemi damper thicker to do the very same thing. BTW, they have a new part number for the SBM with a recessed face so there isn’t a pulley alignment issue. Also, March Performance has pulleys with the correct offset for your FD. There may be others that have them too.
Do not over think this. If you aren’t 100% sure of this, FD has a phone number and they answer it. Call them and ask them. They made it. Not a bunch of guys guessing on the internet giving bad advice.
Two last things. I have never seen FD EVER say to heat a damper to get it on. Not in water, not in the oven, not any other way. If the press fit is correct they will go on smooth and relatively easy with the proper tool. That ain’t a hammer. What you have is perfectly fine. Use anti-seize. That’s in the instructions.
And, if you read the instruction you’ll notice that FD says to NOT hone their damper. That’s in there for a couple of reasons.
One is there are some brands of dampers that are ALL undersize and you have to hone every one of them. This is not true with the FD. They are machined to OE dimensions so it is rather rare that honing is required. I’d the press fit ISNT what the instructions call for, then you need to hone it.
The other reason they say not to hone it because they don’t want it honed with a hand held hone. I do mine in the rod machine. It needs to be straight and round and you can’t get that with a hand held hone.
Here are the instructions. If something isn’t clear, call them. They love to help sort this stuff out.
https://fluidampr.com/wp-content/uploads/4NFA11_Standard-Damper-Install_11-17
