Engine Break-In Oil do's and don'ts by Total Seal

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Well I got out of that was two guys that seem to really know what they're doing and really seem to know what they're talking about and I even watched the second video in line and found out they really sound like they know what they talking about but what are they talking about? I mean where's the meat and potatoes information that we can use except for they know what they're doing?
 
^^^ LOL Long story short that I get from it is that Driven and Lucas break-in oils are the ones to use. I've been using Lucas for years for break-in, no problems here.
 
Well I got out of that was two guys that seem to really know what they're doing and really seem to know what they're talking about and I even watched the second video in line and found out they really sound like they know what they talking about but what are they talking about? I mean where's the meat and potatoes information that we can use except for they know what they're doing?

Jpar- most videos About car products are like the car tv shows about products. All “bla, bla, bla.” And No real information. That’s the Yourube generation. “Let me show you how to do something I haven’t done myself.” I can edit it with music and insert words and look how awesome I am.
Lol!
 
Jpar- most videos About car products are like the car tv shows about products. All “bla, bla, bla.” And No real information. That’s the Yourube generation. “Let me show you how to do something I haven’t done myself.” I can edit it with music and insert words and look how awesome I am.
Lol!
yes I'm watching the whole video waiting for them to say use one of these brands and you can't go wrong.. I was thinking they wouldn't say something specific but at least give us a few to pick from LOL....
 
Jpar- most videos About car products are like the car tv shows about products. All “bla, bla, bla.” And No real information. That’s the Yourube generation. “Let me show you how to do something I haven’t done myself.” I can edit it with music and insert words and look how awesome I am.
Lol!

Guess no one noticed the power port rings they have now in the first -------------------kick ***, been out for a while now.
 
^^^ LOL Long story short that I get from it is that Driven and Lucas break-in oils are the ones to use. I've been using Lucas for years for break-in, no problems here.
I goop the cam with goo. lol and use VR1 for break in. never a problem.
back in the late 70's I broke in a 557 solid with wheel bearing grease. lol
I guess with all the new metals .lol special oil is needed.
 
There was meat and potatoes, but you had to click on it to get the results.
I watch probably 10 of the nice, and short, 3 minute videos.
It gave me good ideas on rings for my next motor.
Wish i could have seen these video before i built my last eng.
I'm giving it two thumbs up!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
As rings get thinner and thinner break in becomes more critical. The 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring pack that just 25 years ago was the “race” rings that couldn’t be used on the street (what a lie that is) is now dinosaur technology. Way too heavy, limited bore comfortability, less sealing and more.

Also, as ring technology moves forward, ring materiel gets better and better, allowing thinner rings still. That means your honing must improve. Bore geometry changes. And certainly, break in procedures and what oil used to get through break in becomes all the more critical.

My junk W2 build will get at the thickest a 1mm, 1mm, 3mm ring pack. Maybe an .09, .09, 2mm pack. It depends on how much of a hero number I might think I want.
 
Oh and Thanks for the Link Skrews.:D
asskiss.gif
haha.gif
 
My junk W2 build will get at the thickest a 1mm, 1mm, 3mm ring pack. Maybe an .09, .09, 2mm pack. It depends on how much of a hero number I might think I want.
By the time that happens will be gray haired bald old men... Wait a minute we already are....
 
As rings get thinner and thinner break in becomes more critical. The 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring pack that just 25 years ago was the “race” rings that couldn’t be used on the street (what a lie that is) is now dinosaur technology. Way too heavy, limited bore comfortability, less sealing and more.

Also, as ring technology moves forward, ring materiel gets better and better, allowing thinner rings still. That means your honing must improve. Bore geometry changes. And certainly, break in procedures and what oil used to get through break in becomes all the more critical.

My junk W2 build will get at the thickest a 1mm, 1mm, 3mm ring pack. Maybe an .09, .09, 2mm pack. It depends on how much of a hero number I might think I want.
LOL you don't get the block prep needed for 300 bucks either. 99% of proper break in comes with quality prep.
 
I know my block was done with that same exact machine they were showing on the total seal video..
 
I know my block was done with that same exact machine they were showing on the total seal video..


It’s hard to beat that hone. Unless you have a fully automated machine like that, you can’t possibly get even close to the finish that machine will produce. Or provide surface geometry options of that type of machine.
 
My first engine had Chrome ring in it. Took forever to get them rings seated in. Figured i had build an eng that would last forever!!!
Then just for fun, i thought, i would drop a valve, destroy a piston, cyl head and then add a large crack in the cylinder wall.
 
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