318 LA tear-down

if you want it to be a reliable Highway driver I would approach it like this...

I would take a bore gauge and measure all the cylinders after I tore it apart to see how out of round and tapered they are only if I don't see a ginormous Ridge at the top already. If it's .0025+ out of round, id bore it and buy flat pistons for a 1971 318, or roughly ones with a 1.74 or 1.75 comp height, then id mill the block .020 because they are usually about .020 taller than listed..then check the head chamber volume/cc and mill the heads about .040 if they are bigger than 68cc. The head gasket will eat up .025 of what you.. mill therefore you'll only have about a .035 height change in intake manifold height which will bolt up fine. Have a good valve job done, no flash or ridge left underneath it in the bowl.
Then a small cam, 252 duration or something like that. Done.

The blueprinting machine work is most of a good engine. Know what you have.
It will run like the money/effort you put into it.

You're the first person that hasn't suggested I don't put in a stroker or something to boost torque and power. While I haven't actually driven this van (it wasn't running when I bought it) I do have a 1969 Fury with a stock 318 and I wouldn't call it under powered by any means. Thanks for your thoughts!

I'll talk with my local machinist about these changes. There is little to no ridge at the top of the cylinders. Honestly, I was thinking of honing myself, buying a stroker kit and some aluminum heads and reassembling with a new timing chain, mild cam, and four barrel carb. It seems like I could get away with minimal machine work and do most, if not all the work in my garage. I do want to be wary of the compression ratio as I'd like to run pump gas.