I think you’re missing the point. None of this is written in stone. The information is out there to absorb and make intelligent decisions based on. Most importantly, share with your machinist what your intended purpose is for the engine and let him make informed decisions about the machine work he does for you.
Ok that chart can be confusing. Here it goes. Skirt clearance is the difference in size between the block and the piston. If the bore is 3.940 (030 over) then the piston should mic 3.938 If you wanted .0020 of skirt clearance. This clearance is finished honed by your machinist and should be different for a nitrous engine vs an N/A engine. I’m saying I wouldn’t run .0020 of skirt clearance on a nitrous engine with KB slugs. I’d want a little more. Rings are another measurement all together. But the same theory applies. More heat (nitrous)=more gap. Make sense now?
So what you’re getting at is that I can’t just point a finger at any line on that list, gap the rings to it and expect the motor to hold just because I gapped the rings to it and followed that specific formula. If that’s what you’re saying than I understand. I just got off the phone with my engine builder and he told me that I could hit this motor with 150 shot and cause no problem. ( with the clearances he machined it to). Assuming everything else ‘I’ do is correct.
The oil hole on the rod should face the center of the engine or towards the camshaft. They are for splashing oil on the bottom of the cylinders.
I just have an oil slot on the cap. Not on the rod itself. And my picture above of the two rods on the crank is looking down from where the cam would be....
Looks good then. Yep, the tangs go on the same side like you have pictured.
How about my bearings. There’s no notch in them so in conclusion, they will not splash oil to the bottom of the cylinders?
No, those won't. Most aftermarket rods don't have the oil hole any more. Someone figured out it wasn't needed I guess.
I wonder if you could take a thin flat file and notch a groove. My worry there would be damaging the surface of the bearing.
Alright. Back to getting the pistons back out. And ordering new bearings I guess.
Kinda where my mind was headed, but probably will damage it.
those are nice. How do you do that? By hand or with a machine? Can be done at home? Please tell.
Really? You don’t think it’ll cause any problem?
I had them done at a local shop that specializes in Mopar cylinder heads. The seats were cut on a Serdi machine and Woody hand polished the chambers and ported the heads. Oh, they milled them .030 to bring the chambers to minimum.
Should be ok. I don't think I have seen any aftermarket rods with the oil hole. So, there is hundreds of thousands of HP engines out there without the squirt holes in them.
Makes sense. Thanks!
I’ll figure this out one of these days. Ha.
