No stupid paint questions go here...

Never painted a car...painted a house once.
Here are a few stupid paint questions that would never be asked seriously:

What makes automobile paint 'auto' grade? At >$200 a gallon?

They have high gloss paints at Home Depot in pints, even metallics... could you paint a car with that paint and then wax if it is a garage stored weekend car?

I've seen cars painted with a roller (as a joke?) And they came out pretty good for a roller, not sure how much color sanding was done but I understand its done in about 10 very dilute coats with a small foam roller.

Could you paint a car with a Wagner (airless) power painter? With what results?

I understand every one of these questions is ludicrous but let's here some softball answers you would tell your 5 year old questionnaire.

pishta said:

Never painted a car...painted a house once.
Here are a few stupid paint questions that would never be asked seriously:

What makes automobile paint 'auto' grade? At >$200 a gallon?

They have high gloss paints at Home Depot in pints, even metallics... could you paint a car with that paint and then wax if it is a garage stored weekend car?

I've seen cars painted with a roller (as a joke?) And they came out pretty good for a roller, not sure how much color sanding was done but I understand its done in about 10 very dilute coats with a small foam roller.

Could you paint a car with a Wagner (airless) power painter? With what results?

I understand every one of these questions is ludicrous but let's here some softball answers you would tell your 5 year old questionnaire.

Click to expand...

Well, I just had to google it, lmao and here was one response:
I'm in the process of painting a 70s muscle car with Rustoleum. It's either that or let it turn into rust. I don't have the bucks for a frame off restoration right now but I'm saving for it. In the mean time I want it to look halfway decent so I can get classic car insurance. I started with rusty metal primer, right out of the can with a brush and now I'm regretting it as I have switched to a sprayer and those brush strokes are murder to sand out. I should add that I have a shop, an instrument repair shop, so I have spray equipment and a big 'ol compressor. I also have a neighbor who is an expert auto body man so I am getting a world of free advice. Pretty much of the other comments are spot on, wet sanding with progressively finer grits and all that but I might add one trick; when you apply the color coat heat it up. Get it as hot as you can stand when sticking your pinky finger in it. Be careful though, the stuff is flammable and I won't be held responsible if you immolate yourself. Lay it on thick, It will look like crap going on but it will "lay down" and look good. If you have spray equipment and decide to try this don't thin it, use it straight.

I have used the summit line of paint with some success ( about 100 a gallon ). I believe they are rebranded Kirker paint? cant say what makes it auto paint, UV protection? corrosion resistance? I will say, the better the material the better the results I have had ( a lot may be my lack of experience ). I don't think the wagner is an all bad idea ( tried it once as a kid - it seems to like thicker materials ).

Rustoleum never seems to fully harden up. Just kinda stays pliable. It WILL fade over time, rather quick if it see's a lot of time in the sun.