With the adjuster almost all the way out, your suspension will droop! Tighten then at least 3/4 way while they are still up on jackstands. Remember the bars wrap up under load, The odd number is driver (from the BACK) and the even is passenger. put the numbers at the back for simple sake. Picture the bar wrapping up when the LCA loads up, rotates CW (driver side). It pushes the adjuster strut up into the floating torsion bar socket 'arm' until it hits and then starts twisting the bar. This is where your adjustment is made. The bar can only twist so far as it gets progressively harder. Even a 6 bar will hold up a 440, but it will really be jouncy on bumps. This is driver side....and they got the bar in (note floating pivoting hex arm) but its just showing you the strut and the arm. PST bars are sometimes not clocked on their bigger bars, ie. the flats are parallel on each end. So if your LCAs are 'hanging' straight down, the arm of the socket (end of line in pic) should still be pointing down about at your butt if your sitting down. and yes, it takes a jack to raise the spindle end of the LCA to mate it up with the full hung UCA. Be careful at this point as it is unstable and you dont want to raise the car off your jackstands, bring your UCA's down to meet the spindle, as they still got some drop in them while they are just sitting there on their bushings. Use a bar or something. Believe me, I have taken them out and put them back in with just a pipe wrench on the socket and manually pushing it down to line up the hex but your case may be a little different.
View attachment 1715641847 thanks alot i will try this again on sat,,,i pretty sure the /6 bar will hold it up...it did after i did the engine swap. i know they are not going to work for me ...but still think they should hold it up...
Another thread on beefy PST bars
Clocking lower control arms and PST 1.03 torsion bars. 72 Dart
