67Dart273 said

You should have tagged this onto to your original thread

1...If you tested the sender as you say, and did it correctly, that is NOT the correct resistance. All gauges using a sender---temp, oil, and fuel--pretty much use the same sender resistance ranges. Here they are photoshopped into the gauge tester:

Your results mean, if done correctly, that either the sender is defective or it is the WRONG sender (in the box) regardless of what was PRINTED on the box. It might be good to round up a friend with another multimeter and verify that your meter is OK and accurate

View attachment 1715642026

Look at the yellow text, bottom left.

74 ohms is Low end of gauge scale
23 ohms is Middle of gauge scale
10 ohms is High end of gauge scale

So the sender at rest, whether temp sender or oil sender should read 74 "or more."

2...If you are going to keep your truck search around and get a repop of the factory service manual. Nowadays there might be someone selling these in electronic pdf, so you don't even have to ship it.....just download it. You may have to pay for that

3....Identify the bulkhead connector cavity for the oil sender wire.

4...Connect a 12V test LAMP (not LED) to the wire you have identified and with the key in "run" (engine stopped) probe the suspect wire. If that is the correct sender wire, you should get two results---the gauge should move some while the lamp is connected, and the lamp should "pulse" on/ off

5...At this point you should be able to wire it up and get good results. If you can round up some test resistances shown above, you can test any/ all of the gauges (except ammeter) using those resistances.

Click to expand...

We have pressure!