The cross caster and caster being under +1° of caster will cause the issues you're having.
With Moog offset bushings and stock control arms you're not likely to get more than +3.5° of caster. It does depend on the rest of your suspension and ride height, but that's about it.
You don't want to run more than -1° camber on the street anyway, for modern radials and regular street driving -.5° is fine, if you do some corner carving up to -1° is good. More than -1° camber starts to wear the insides of the tires prematurely, and really only benefits if you're autoX'ing or doing road courses.
A lot of alignment shops will only use the factory settings, which are for bias ply's and are totally wrong for radials. So right of the bat a lot of places won't put the right alignment on the car. Even if you find a place that will use the SKOSH chart there's no guarantee that any of the techs will have the foggiest idea of how to align one of these cars. Modern cars don't usually take much effort, so if you're talking to an alignment tech at a tire shop good luck.
A Fastrax gauge with a set of turn plates can produce great results with a little practice. Add a set of toe plates to make setting the toe easier and you don't have to worry about taking it to a shop. Unless it's just to check your work, when I buy new tires I'll have it put on a rack to check but I don't let them touch anything. If they even will, I've had shops refuse because of the adjustable UCA's and tubular LCA's on my car. They don't want to assume the liability for aftermarket parts if they didn't do the install.
