What Harness and any tips??

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MoparMcK

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I have a 72 Demon I am looking into rewiring. I am also debating if I will attempt it myself or hire it done. I am looking at the 22 circuit universal harness from Speedway, the similar universal harness from Painless, and the Mopar coded Painless harness. I currently have the Speedway harness in my 64 f100. 10 years and no issues but I did not install it. I am also swapping over to MSD ignition, adding an electric fan(s), have an electric fuel pump, plane on a decent stereo, Autometer gauges, and I have eliminated the heater box.

Any input from those that have done their Mopar?
What is a good location for the MSD box?
 
Any harness that does not require splicing would be my pick
 
One thing, some of the cheaper universal harnesses may be designed more for "hot rods" such as roadsters, etc. Be sure the tail harness is actually long enough.

Several of these harness makers annoy me for several reasons

1....Some the wiring is printed, which is fine until you wish to "repurpose" it. For example, if the wiring is marked "power windows" and you don't HAVE those, but maybe want to use that circuit for something else..........................

2...The fuse panel setup / distribution is weird. I've forgotten specifics, but seems to me on mine, originally, some things came on with accessory or igntion that should have maybe been preferred the other way around. I actually took the fuse panel apart and changed a few things

3...Documentation leaves a bit to be desired. An actual diagram is sometimes better

4....Several of these manufacturers completely miss "Mopars." The little tricks such as the setup of starter relay, of the concept of IGN1 and IGN2, and so on. Mopar, and some AMC, are about the only brand which has a grounding switch for neutral safety.
 
I bought a couple used factory harness' to redo myself. A M&H oem dash harness sold by Year One would run me almost $1k. While it "may" be worth it, I feel it's out of reach for me, so I bought wire crimpers, terminals etc.
Good luck.
 
I have a 72 Demon I am looking into rewiring. I am also debating if I will attempt it myself or hire it done. I am looking at the 22 circuit universal harness from Speedway, the similar universal harness from Painless, and the Mopar coded Painless harness. I currently have the Speedway harness in my 64 f100. 10 years and no issues but I did not install it. I am also swapping over to MSD ignition, adding an electric fan(s), have an electric fuel pump, plane on a decent stereo, Autometer gauges, and I have eliminated the heater box.

Any input from those that have done their Mopar?
What is a good location for the MSD box?

Having thought about this for a day, I have a question for the OP.

Exactly why do you want to rewire your car? Are you having issues with the stock harness? Is it otherwise damaged? Parts of it missing?

Re-reading your original post, that could govern the OP's need to consider my next suggestion:
If your existing harness is generally in good shape and you're just wanting to modernize or accessorize, consider adding a remote fuse panel, similar to late models. This can be ripped from any car you choose in the salvage yard, as most of them are readily accessible, have a ton of readily available fuses, and are easy to pirate. Then you have a plethora of new circuits you can add, and most of the new fuse boxes only require running two wires, for power source and ground to get you energized. Further, they are also well-equipped with relays, which are your best friend when adding accessories and can help fire-protect your ride.

Neon and Charger underhood fuse panels are great for this. Relabel the lid of the fuse box and you're golden. Electric fuel pump? The fuse and relay are already labeled, wired, fused, and relayed. Supply power, hook 'er up, done. Power windows? Same. Ignition? Same. Dixie horns? Same. This saves you the effort of re-wiring the car, and offers the ability to keep the factory diagrams which will save your butt at some point in the future (You do keep a laminated copy of your car's diagram, with all additional mods and circuits, in the trunk or glove box, right?). Trying to trouble shoot aftermarket harnii can be a real *****, especially after a few years have gone by, and then if it's all re-wired very few people here can help you at that point...whereas with a stock harness, some people on this site can tell you what that green pigtail under the hood is, just by description.

Then the only other mods the OP requires are possibly a larger alternator, and the regular upgrades like bypassing the troublesome bulkhead connector, ammeter delete, election interference in Pennsylvania, etc.

Based on the 3 or 4 things you suggested you want to modify electrically on your Demon, I would not rewire the car. If something is wrong with it electrically now, I might suggest replacing the factory harness before you modify this stuff, but that really isn't that difficult (not that it's easy mind you, but there's a process), but that depends on what's wrong.

Besides, adding a secondary fuse/circuit panel lets you revert the car to stock much more easily should you decide to restore, sell, or further modify in the future. I think it's safe to say that most of us add that stuff when we're young, then regret adding at least some of it when we're older! For example: when I was 16, the dipstick behind the counter at O'reilly's told me that when the fuse blows, you're just supposed to install a bigger fuse. Yeah, no. Not the hot upgraydd. Well, it did get hot.

When selling, most people want something unmolested, so this can protect your investment and keep options open for the next owner.

Plus, it's less work!
 
I have done several complete rewires and in fact am just finishing a rewire of a 69 Ply wagon and I will say this; it is not impossible however it does require a lot of planning and an understanding of how every switch, gauge, etc. works. Plus you will have to buy Packard series 56 terminals, probably several different crimpers, test equipment, etc. to get it done correctly.

I used after market harnesses but connect everything like it should be to include the bulk head connector. Its a lot of work to be honest, not super hard but very tedious. You really have to sketch it out and be able to read factory schematics.

As to hiring it out, I am sure there are shops that can and will do it but I have a car in my shop that was "hired out" and while everything works it is less than ideal.

So with all this said, I would ask the same question as others, why do you want to rewire the car? If it isn't burned up or seriously flawed, then you might want to repair what needs it. You can usually purchase wiring segments (front harness, engine harness, etc.)
 
I would ask the OP how good he is with automobile wiring / electrics. A complete rewire is quite a job, and you better know what you are doing.
 
I agree with post #9, and this could be applied to all sectors in FABO. It is painfully evident that sometimes answers to questions get so complicated that I feel sorry for the person asking the question. You already know that he is in over his head, and then compound it assuming that he does know what he is doing. Too much is as bad as not enough. Feel it out so that you actually help.
I will catch hell for saying this, JMO.
 
I agree with post #9, and this could be applied to all sectors in FABO. It is painfully evident that sometimes answers to questions get so complicated that I feel sorry for the person asking the question. You already know that he is in over his head, and then compound it assuming that he does know what he is doing. Too much is as bad as not enough. Feel it out so that you actually help.
I will catch hell for saying this, JMO.

He may not want 42 yr old wiring on something he`s putting a lot of money in , I didnt want 52 yr old wiring in mine . And I might add , I`m far , far away from an automobile electrician . or a professional mech. , but it works -------------------
if he`s got the coin, painless has a mopar muscle car harness now too, I used an E Z hot rod kit .-----jf his i
 
Thanks for all the input. Rather than jumping in and responding here and there. I decided to sit back and read and think about each piece of input. Now, I am 80% sure I am going to use the Speedway kit that I already have in my f100. Great kit and after ten years, no issues. 22 circuit $240. Not all that expensive compared to some of the kits.

- No I am not the best when it comes to electrical anything. I keep getting thrown at me, you don't learn by hiring it done. Now I know I mentioned hiring it done but that doesn't mean I will. Wiring frustrates the hell out of me and most people, as I have read. Which makes me want to tackle it myself.

- I want to replace ALL the wiring due to it being old, cracked, weathered, worn out, spliced, added onto, and so on. Its also almost 50 years old. Its truly a fire waiting to happen and poof the car is gone for good.

- I am not worried about factory appearance. It is already swapped to a BB, fuel cell, aftermarket gauges, and so on.

I came here looking for some input. I am not sure if I got exactly what I was looking for but I did get what I expected to. No worries I don't mean anything by that and I have taken no offense to any of what was said.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for all the input. Rather than jumping in and responding here and there. I decided to sit back and read and think about each piece of input. Now, I am 80% sure I am going to use the Speedway kit that I already have in my f100. Great kit and after ten years, no issues. 22 circuit $240. Not all that expensive compared to some of the kits.

- No I am not the best when it comes to electrical anything. I keep getting thrown at me, you don't learn by hiring it done. Now I know I mentioned hiring it done but that doesn't mean I will. Wiring frustrates the hell out of me and most people, as I have read. Which makes me want to tackle it myself.

- I want to replace ALL the wiring due to it being old, cracked, weathered, worn out, spliced, added onto, and so on. Its also almost 50 years old. Its truly a fire waiting to happen and poof the car is gone for good.

- I am not worried about factory appearance. It is already swapped to a BB, fuel cell, aftermarket gauges, and so on.

I came here looking for some input. I am not sure if I got exactly what I was looking for but I did get what I expected to. No worries I don't mean anything by that and I have taken no offense to any of what was said.

Thanks again!
I just got done rewiring a 72 Demon, I used Painless but have had some experience (all positive) with Speedway. Keep in mind I wired in a modern Hemi but much of the wiring is still same. Send me a PM if you want and I can send you some schematics I drew up on poster board so I could actually read the darn things. Best advice is go slow and be meticulous. Document what it is and what it will be. Your documentation will be invaluable for troubleshooting later. Ask me how I know! Hah!
 
If you buy the Speedway wiring kit, be sure to get plenty of shrink tubing and & uninsulated terminals. Everyplace you put a terminal, be sure to put the shrink on first. The reason behind this is the CHEAP plastic on the insulated terminals goes to crap very soon after installation. I used a 10 circuit on my race car & that was something that I was advised to do. Just my .02
 
I'm in the process of rewiring my 74 Duster. I have 4-5 factory harnesses at my disposal for various connectors and such. Could have probably made a good one out of it but I went with a Painless 21 circuit kit. I just don't trust almost 50 year old wiring.

I relocated the MSD, fuse panel, voltage regulator and starter relay to a panel under the dash where the heater box used to live. I'm also replacing all the light sockets and switches in the car with new ones. I've added an electric fan, Hella H4 conversion with relay harness for the headlights. I'm also running provisions for a future electric fuel pump and nitrous. I'm not the most savvy when it comes to electrical so I just take my time and do one circuit at a time.
 
Here's how I'm mounting everything in my car. All tucked up under the dash and I find it's easier to access stuff from the passenger side with no steering wheel in the way.

IMG_20201222_221144_762.jpg
 
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