Correct Direction

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Cudabnu

Cudabnu

(3) 64 Val Verts. /6 4spd, 273/904, 318/727
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Ok, so I ordered a bunch of Small Block stuff from Speedmaster on black friday:
Aluminum bare Heads
intake and exhaust valves
Stainless 1.5 rockers
Head and Main Studs
H beam Rods
Airgap knock off intake.

What I have:
64 Valiant Vert with 6 cyl 4 spd 8 3/4 rear with 323 sure grip.
67 273 complete 2bbl engine.

So time to start hunting for the next deal on the block to build. It will not be raced, just a good weekend street cruiser using the 4spd and 323 gears since it's what I already have.

Love to hear direction on what block I should look for to build, cam/lifter/spring, recommendations. Yes, money IS a concern, so I will be piecing it together as deals come up.

I do have access to a 340 block .030 over for about $400, but leaning towards a 360 since I should be able to find a good short block for a decent price.

I'd like to dress it up as an early commando as much as possible. I do have a ported LD4B intake i could use instead of the airgap.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
You want a build recipe to work with the rest of the running gear drivetrain?

Provide more information;

Wheel and tire size
Fuel limitations
Car weight
Headers or exhaust manifolds
P/B’s?
 
Engine CID of your choice...

10-1 (more if octane supportable)
Cam duration @ 050 not to exceed 224, as much lift as possible.
RPM/750cfm
Dual exhaust w/an H or X pipe @ 2-1/2 inches.
Port those heads!
 
Most any good 360 block you find will be fine for a street cruiser/weekend bruiser. But, since you asked for recommendations, here's what I would look for:
1.) '88-ish through'92 360 roller block. Already has roller lifters, comes with windage tray and attaching hardware from the factory, and being TBI motors they're usually in pretty good shape as far as cylinder wear goes. They come with 308 heads, which if they're in good shape, are a good head and you can resell to offset other costs.
2.) '93-'94 and maybe '95 5.9L (Magnum) 360. Again, usually really good on the cylinder wear. You want the early Magnum blocks because they're still drilled for oiling through the deck/heads, and are compatible with your Speedmaster heads.
Try to keep the SCR around 9.5:1 or a touch higher for a street octane-friendly setup. For a cam, try something along the lines of the Lunati 20200715. Not over the top, but a torquey, fun cam with good street manners.
Your issue will be with the clutch. Early A V8s had a wimpy 9 1/2 (?) inch clutch. Brewer's sells a scalloped 10" disc that fits, but you'll be better off upgrading to the later 10 1/2" components. Brewers can set you up with anything you can't source locally.
 
Cudabnu said:
we have crap gas out here in SO Cal!
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Same as we have here in the midwest. We make ethanol here so we have E10, E15, and E85 at most stations as well as unleaded with no alcohol. The top octane is 91 with a BP near me that has 93 but he rips your head off on the price. (on all his gas) I use it from time to time on my 9.6/1 273 but 91 works fine.
 
I do have a set of dougs headers and Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust on my other 318 64 Valiant I can swipe when the time comes.

Is there an issue with the oiling for the heads and using head studs?
 
Cudabnu said:
I do have a set of dougs headers and Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust on my other 318 64 Valiant I can swipe when the time comes.

Is there an issue with the oiling for the heads and using head studs?
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No, the issue is that only the early Magnum blocks are still drilled for head oiling, a holdover from the LAs. Later blocks omitted the passages entirely, as Magnums oil through the lifters & pushrods. Confirm that the passages are there in your Magnum block and you'll be okay. The LA roller block is fine as-is. I'll see if I can find a pic.
And by the way, since you're swapping from a slant to an eight, don't forget to hunt down an early A V8 centerlink. And the V8 throttle pedal and linkage. And for both of the blocks I mentioned, the 360 (NOT 273/318/340) pass. car oil pan & pickup.
 
Right on with everything, especially the late 5.9 hydraulic roller cam available blocks and getting those heads ported. Most of the ones I've been directly involved with still have a good bottom end but since you've got H beams it appears you're going past stock, so I'm curious as to what pistons everyone recommends. (I would probably go with some Speed Pro hypereutectic flat tops). Add a high volume pump and chromoly intermediate drive with an applicable pan and pickup and it's golden. On the cam, get a set of Crane replacement hydraulic roller lifters and call Ken Heard at Oregon cam grinders. He may have a grind specific to your application that he can put on the core from you engine, but he may also recommend an aftermarket grind that better matches your needs.
 
Professor Fate said:
No, the issue is that only the early Magnum blocks are still drilled for head oiling, a holdover from the LAs. Later blocks omitted the passages entirely, as Magnums oil through the lifters & pushrods. Confirm that the passages are there in your Magnum block and you'll be okay. The LA roller block is fine as-is. I'll see if I can find a pic.
And by the way, since you're swapping from a slant to an eight, don't forget to hunt down an early A V8 centerlink. And the V8 throttle pedal and linkage. And for both of the blocks I mentioned, the 360 (NOT 273/318/340) pass. car oil pan & pickup.
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Here's a shot of the oiling passage in an LA head- if there is a corresponding hole in your Magnum, you're golden. If not, I read that PRH makes LA-style rockers that oil through the pushrod- might want to contact them if you'd rather go that direction.
006-hughes-smallblock-chrysler-magnum-cylinder-heads-6.jpg
 
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$400 for a 340 block? I'd snatch that up. All the "get rich off Mopar stuff" people up here want $800-$1000 for a rusted crusty block. Not that I need one...

With that I'd look for a 88-89 360 or the mentioned early 5.9 Magnum block.
 
So on the 88-92 Magnum engines are they all roller motors? If I look at car-part.com for a engine, what should I be looking for to get the roller 360?
 
Cudabnu said:
So on the 88-92 Magnum engines are they all roller motors? If I look at car-part.com for a engine, what should I be looking for to get the roller 360?
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'88-'92 aren't Magnums. They're LA roller motors. Magnums started in '92 for the 5.2, in '93 for the 5.9. All Magnums are roller.
 
ok, got it, so just find a 88-92 360 and I should be good, out of a car better since it will have the correct oil pan?

I've been working with vintage VW's for too long!
 
Cudabnu said:
ok, got it, so just find a 88-92 360 and I should be good, out of a car better since it will have the correct oil pan?

I've been working with vintage VW's for too long!
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If it's out of a car, make sure it's a roller- there's a mishmash of LAs that got installed in the transition from flat tappets to rollers. If it's out of a truck (and has TBI) it'll be a roller.
 
The later Mopar 360 roller v8s were only available in trucks and vans.
 
And ramchargers. Usually 250 & 350 series, the 100 & 150 series were flat tappet. But just because it’s flat tappet doesn’t mean it’s not a hydraulic roller block machines for dog bones and the retainer spider. A lot of reman and service replacement hydraulic roller engines got flat tappet cams installed in them, 5.2 & 5.9.
 
I would make sure that the 340 isn't an 8 sleeve candidate, if you go that direction.
 
Cudabnu said:
so this? not local, but for sale close to where a friend lives.

View attachment 1715646367
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That's a roller cam block, you can see the 3 bosses in the lifter valley for the tree that holds the dog bones ( I know, Ford term) that guides the roller lifters. Plus the face of the lifter bores are machined for the dog bones, 1 per intake and exh. per cylinder, 8 total.

upload_2020-12-10_13-47-12.png


upload_2020-12-10_13-46-27.png
 
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