1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

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Ha ha! Got sidetracked with another project. Then a car buddy brought over a Q Jet carb for an overhaul from his ‘70 GTO 400. I like your idea of the strap around the battery.
Jim
 
Saw your thread here and just thought I'd give you a :poke: Wayne
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Hello Wayne Hope all is well with you and your family. jim
You as well ! With the wife's compromised lungs I've had us pretty much locked down since March, but she hasn't killed me yet! LOL Hope all is well at your end of the province as well !
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We are good here as well. We had really low Covid numbers here. Only10 cases from Jan to Oct. however Nov was a different story. We ended Nov with 47 cases. All linked to locals travelling to high risk areas and bringing it back or people coming from high risk areas into the community. Just shows how quickly it can spread.
 
Ha ha! Got sidetracked with another project. Then a car buddy brought over a Q Jet carb for an overhaul from his ‘70 GTO 400. I like your idea of the strap around the battery.
Jim
Finally got back at it!! Your strap idea worked great!!! The cable is attached to the battery lead post with a S/S bolt, washers and nut. I think that makes a better connection than drilling and tapping the lead post material.
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Installed the engine temporarily so I can get all the Sniper wiring cut to the right length.
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Finally finished cleaning up all the wiring under the hood. Long process to run one wire at a time and then do a final test to ensure everything worked OK.
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Now starting on the interior. First up is refurbishing the windshield wiper pivots. Glass bead blasted and then drilled and tapped holes (1/4-28) for grease fittings. Flushed out old grease with solvent and then pumped in some good old Mopar chassis grease. Applied RPM to the arms to prevent rusting. New DMT gaskets and about ready to install. The Black round foam seals go on real easy if you use some dish wash soap.
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Now starting on the interior. First up is refurbishing the windshield wiper pivots. Glass bead blasted and then drilled and tapped holes (1/4-28) for grease fittings. Flushed out old grease with solvent and then pumped in some good old Mopar chassis grease. Applied RPM to the arms to prevent rusting. New DMT gaskets and about ready to install. The Black round foam seals go on real easy if you use some dish wash soap.
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I did that to my pivots it worked out well! The top ring was good on both so just modified and rebuilt them. Nice work.
 
Now starting on the interior. First up is refurbishing the windshield wiper pivots. Glass bead blasted and then drilled and tapped holes (1/4-28) for grease fittings. Flushed out old grease with solvent and then pumped in some good old Mopar chassis grease. Applied RPM to the arms to prevent rusting. New DMT gaskets and about ready to install. The Black round foam seals go on real easy if you use some dish wash soap.
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I need to do this, it is on my Trello board... I see another seal in addition to the foam gasket; is that standard or something you added? Did you disassemble the pivot? Are there internal seals?
 
I need to do this, it is on my Trello board... I see another seal in addition to the foam gasket; is that standard or something you added? Did you disassemble the pivot? Are there internal seals?
That black seal is a piece of dum dum caulk and is in the gasket kit. You cannot disassemble the pivot (well, not really true - anything can be taken apart!!). No internal seals. Drilling the hole for the grease fitting allows you to inject some solvent and blow out the old grease with compressed air. Then pump it full of new grease and it should be good for another 50+ years!
Jim
 
There is a thin metal spiral seal ring at the top. If it is trashed (rusted out) out then the pivots are junk.
Doing the upgrade like said and cleaning + new grease will save the pivots if the top ring is ok. The tube full of grease helps keep the water from running in with the new gasket kit and obviously lubricates the pivot action.

If the top ring is gone or rusted out it is a waste of time.JMO!

like said Nice work on these!
 
I bought some repro plastic bushings for the linkages in case the originals were worn. As soon as I snapped then together, they broke!! Junk!! Reinstalled the 52 year old originals!!!



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Sad isn't it Jim. I have a mass of repro parts that I wouldn't even resell to my worst enemy as they're junk. Every time I pick up a plastic reproduction part I think I should head over to my Plastics Plant and tool up to make my own, but then I remind myself of why I walked out the door 16 years ago...
 
Sad isn't it Jim. I have a mass of repro parts that I wouldn't even resell to my worst enemy as they're junk. Every time I pick up a plastic reproduction part I think I should head over to my Plastics Plant and tool up to make my own, but then I remind myself of why I walked out the door 16 years ago...

Not only sad, but frustrating!!! Must have been made from reprocessed plastic garbage!!
 
Started applying acoustic mats to the firewall. Kind of hard on this almost 77 year old body!!!!
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Great progress on that restoration. The red 340-S was always one of my favorites up at Carlisle.
 
Was getting ready to install the AC/Heater assembly when I noticed that the wiring on the motor came out on the passenger side instead of the drivers side. This meant the wires were too short. I had the box restored at Welcome — Mr Heaterbox and Interior Restoration Services. I checked with them and found out that they send their motors to a local rebuild shop but that doesn't guarantee that you get your original motor back!! So instead of getting my original date coded motor back I got a non original motor from a 1965 model year AC box according to the date code!! The brackets on it are clocked differently.
I did find a correct NOS motor on eBay but it was $295 USD + conversion to CDN funds + shipping + customs +taxes. Yikes!! I also found some NORS units but they were also clocked differently than the previous 2.
Looks like I will keep the one I have and extend the wires.
Sure wish I had known that this might happen before I sent the unit to be restored.
Jim
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Was getting ready to install the AC/Heater assembly when I noticed that the wiring on the motor came out on the passenger side instead of the drivers side. This meant the wires were too short. I had the box restored at Welcome — Mr Heaterbox and Interior Restoration Services. I checked with them and found out that they send their motors to a local rebuild shop but that doesn't guarantee that you get your original motor back!! So instead of getting my original date coded motor back I got a non original motor from a 1965 model year AC box according to the date code!! The brackets on it are clocked differently.
I did find a correct NOS motor on eBay but it was $295 USD + conversion to CDN funds + shipping + customs +taxes. Yikes!! I also found some NORS units but they were also clocked differently than the previous 2.
Looks like I will keep the one I have and extend the wires.
Sure wish I had known that this might happen before I sent the unit to be restored.
Jim
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That's certainly noteworthy, but a bummer on your part.
 
Sorry that happened to you. Good to know about that vendor....I would not be happy losing my date coded blower motor!
 
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