dibbons
Well-Known Member
For a vehicle that never sees the track is there any difference in performance single point vs dual point? Just curious. Thank you.
Any Advantage to Having a Dual Point Distributor for Daily Driver?
- Thread starter dibbons
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I just took a Mallory Dual-Point out of my barracuda because it didn't have a vacuum advance can on it. (race only?)
I got a Stock Rebuild from HalifaxHops with a Single-Point setup and it's Waaay better! Starts easy, doesn't miss at idle
and runs like a Striped-Assed-Ape!
I'm curious what the 2nd Later firing point does? I don't see the point. Ha!
I got a Stock Rebuild from HalifaxHops with a Single-Point setup and it's Waaay better! Starts easy, doesn't miss at idle
and runs like a Striped-Assed-Ape!
I'm curious what the 2nd Later firing point does? I don't see the point. Ha!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If no other reason, the Mopar single points are a really shitty distributor. The vacuum advance is sloppy as heck and changes dwell as it moves. They are one of the worst (vintage) distributors in the industry. One way around it is to convert to a Mopar breakerless, and use a GM HEI module. You can do this mod pretty cheaply, actually
So hey, if I was stuck with points, I'd endeavor to get a dual point setup
So hey, if I was stuck with points, I'd endeavor to get a dual point setup
My A56 (the one I have now and the new one I had previously) both came with dual points and I never had a problem and this one is now over 50 years old. If you properly install and adjust the points(dwell) and maintain the condition of the distributor you should be good to go.
Basically the advantage of a dual point is better dwell and they dont USALLY get point float at high RPM. Single point is great for a daily driver with good points and condenser, usually good for 10K miles.
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The old mallory mech dual points had 4 lobes. One set of points for 4 cylinders. This allows extreme RPM's with less chance of points float. What are you doing with the Mechanical dual point ? Is t for sale? PM me please with pics and price
I have a Mallory Double Life for a small block in the for sale section.
It depends how big of a hot rod your daily driver is. If it's a 318 2 barrel with a stock cam, you probably won't notice any difference in performance between a single and dual point.
I drove one on the street for years, solid copper wires and all. Worked great for me. I liked the cap also.
Yeah the caps were cool with the wires slipping in without boots. Just loosen the two screws. The gave it the magnito look. LOL
Yes, and you definitely had to set it up with a dwell tach. Otherwise 4 cylinders were not timed to the other 4. But it also had an adjustable curve.
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K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
To tell the truth I kind of miss my old mechanical dual point, my car also came with the presto light dual point that I ran till the breaker plate wore out then I moved to eclin mechanical dual point which is a Excel , combined with their high performance condenser it was a pretty hot little setup. But I did go through quite a few condensers and always carry an extra one
Short story, 1971, a guy I worked with bought a new Dodge Dart 318.In 1987 it quit running in the work parking lot. I asked "When did you change the points last ?'' He answered "Never, they told me it had a new electronic ignition for 71". The car had 90K+ miles on it.I opened the gap enough for it to run again till he got new points.
Reviving this thread with a kwesshun or two. I am converting a slant six distributor to dual point. So, when I set dwell, do I half the total (45 degrees) and set each set to half that or do I set each set to 45 degrees which is the correct slant six single point spec?
I would look at HP 273 or 340 specs. They are make it, break it specs, so dwell should increase. Assuming a 6 point lobe...
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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IIRC you set them one atta time to 27to32*.
But that's by memory going back to 1970 .....................
But that's by memory going back to 1970 .....................
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This may be a dilemma. I'm fairly certain that the cam is different (ramps) between single and dual point I'd be tempted to say set them at original spec
Too wide a gap can cause point bounce. To close a gap will cause points burning because they don't pop open as fast on the cam "ramp" In this case of course bounce would be the end you are worried about. "Might take some playing" lol
I've had it together just sorta mocking it up and it appears the opening and closing of each is "about right". In other words, they over lap each other a little. Just something I'm gonna have to see about the closer I get. I got the correct dual point points with the extra strong spring, so I have that. They are some older NOS Blue Streak with the oiling pads. I need some shorter screws that hold the breaker plate in place, because the ones there now hit the distributor internals and keep it from rotating. All that has to wait till payday later this week. It may not work out, but it's something I wanted to try.
pishta
I know I'm right....
What total your trying to achieve? Block secondary points with a match or paper or ? and set the first set to spec, ie. 26. Then unblock the 2nd set and adjust it to get final dwell setting. The gap is what your changing. The 2nd set just extends the 'open' time, 26 can now be extended to 32 or whatever your chasing. IIRC they are ~9 out of sync by design so the same gap X2 would increase dwell by 9 degrees.
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Yeah I know all that part, but what dwell spec am I aiming for total? I assumed the same total as the single points, but chit if I know.
I'll look up 273 specs.
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