glues, fillers and paints

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60jerry

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Hi modelers,

Being in my seventies, the work on my 1:1 scale cars is getting tougher on the old body. Think I need to downsize to 1:25. I haven't built model cars for some years. I'd like some suggestions that get me up to date on the technology of newer glues, fillers and paints.

Glues: As I recall, using the original glue, the plastic was somewhat softened upon glue contact. Memory says that the glue seams remained a bit soft for some time, making sanding difficult because it would gum up. I think that was the old styrene glue? Is super glue a good idea? Does it melt the plastic and remain soft or does it dry hard and sandable? The reason for this question is that I want to make glue seams as smooth as possible.

Fillers: Any recommendations for fillers that sand fairly easily and also are dense enough to not absorb primer and paint, but rather stay smooth and leaves the same solid surface similar plastic itself. I remember using Plastic Wood in the sixties and it soaked up the paint. Had to paint-fill a few times to eliminate the rough areas.

Paints: I used the spray paints of the time. Testors is the only brand I remember. Are any of the new sprays as good as the Testors? Better? Is air brushing the best way for nowadays or something else? Do some of the current lacquer model paints affect the plastic like automotive acrylic lacquer paints do? I remember the AMT lacquers from the sixties that did not bother the plastic. Both lacquers smelled different from each other.

I have several car kits to get started on. I also (occasionally) build a plastic airplane kit.

I have a plastic car kit rant that may appear in the near future.

Thanks for ideas.
Jerry in Denver
 
The old model glue actually melts the plastic together, that is how it works. I think modellers use super glue now. Even better, use an accelerant and it dries instantly.
Zip Kicker

I always used testors paint. Brushed it on or used in an air brush.
 
One thing to remember.... super glue hardens/dries in the absence of air/oxygen. Any that you leave on an exposed surface will eventually dry (but more slowly) so try your best to apply super glue to only the surfaces that you want to glue together. It will not melt or soften the plastic parts and will harden within 30 seconds. Any glue left on exposed surfaces can be wiped off.
 
One thing to remember.... super glue hardens/dries in the absence of air/oxygen. Any that you leave on an exposed surface will eventually dry (but more slowly) so try your best to apply super glue to only the surfaces that you want to glue together. It will not melt or soften the plastic parts and will harden within 30 seconds. Any glue left on exposed surfaces can be wiped off.
Thanks. It's nice to know that super glue won't attack the plastic. Since super glue doesn't melt the plastic, I think I'll scuff the spots where glue is expected to hold. I will probably really like super glue for model building.
 
The old model glue actually melts the plastic together, that is how it works. I think modellers use super glue now. Even better, use an accelerant and it dries instantly.
Zip Kicker

I always used testors paint. Brushed it on or used in an air brush.
Sounds like Testors must still be good stuff. Thanks. Guess it's time to dig out my air brush. It's from the fifties or early sixties.
J
 
Sample of my stuff hope it helps btw I paint with a.rattle can

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20201208_205801.jpg
 
I guess I'm a rare duck... I use a bunch of things. All depends on what I'm gluing, painting etc.

For basic assembly I use super glue, for putting bodies onto chassis I use model glue (melts the plastic together) and for windows, clear parts I use PVA elmers glue. Leaves the windows clear still.

For paint I use actual autobody paint for the body. I prime in flat black, flat grey or white. Most of my detail work is done with water based paints and matt cleared afterwards.

If you have a specific part you need help with, post up, lots of great builders here...

Riddler
 
Super glue doesn't have the shear strength to hold parts under any kind of stress together. It also dries harder than styrene so oversanding the plastic around the join can be an issue. Some guys use the thicker CA as a filler but you have to catch it at just the right time in the setting action to sand it. I'll use it on fiddly bits like shifters, steering wheels, etc. but 99% of the adhesive I use in styrene modeling is styrene cement. Testors Liquid still has a place on my bench along with Tamiya Extra Thin (same stuff as Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner BTW) and Model Master "Liquid Cement" and Tamiya Thin (orange cap)-both thicker versions of liquid cement. There are also "space age" liquid cements that dry ridiculously fast like Styrene Tack-It (formerly Tenax 7R), Plastruct Bondene, Micro Mark Same Stuff, etc. Some guys also use plain ol' MEK but my experience with it hasn't been good.The majority of my work is done with Tamiya Extra Thin and MM Liquid Cement with the occasional hit of Styrene Tack-It for a quick join.

For all the fillers I've used over the last 50ish years of scale modeling I've narrowed them down to two-Tamiya Putty White and Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Deluxe Materials filler is water based so if I have a tricky place to fill the ability to clean up excess with a wet Q-tip is ideal. I went through a phase where I was using auto spot putty and Sikkens Kombi proved to be the best of the bunch I used but it all has an aggressive solvent base that attacks plastic which is sometimes optimal, sometimes not. I decided in the end it was better to go with something that didn't do that. And I always prime my filler work so it doesn't absorb paint, just like in the real world.

Paint is going to wind down to your personal preference. Testors was bought out by RPM (Rustoleum) and they've pretty much destroyed the US enamel paint lines like Model Master, Floquil and Pactra. A shame as I rather liked Colors by Boyd for my automotive builds and most of my military stuff was done in Model Master. But there are plenty of others out there in enamel, lacquer and acrylic paints as well as a lot of offerings in spray paint.

You tube is a treasure trove of information about tricks, techniques and reviews of everything from kits to tools to materials. And there has been a increasing number of podcasts lately that offer the same.

And for fun-fresh off the bench Airfix 1/48 Hawker Hurricane Mk. I, 145 Squadron June 1940. Humbrol paints, decals by Xtradecal:

DSC01075.jpg
 
  • Let us see if I can reply to all of the help I've been offered. At my age model building could be a challenge, considering that my steadiness has been slowly diminishing. And I'm only 75.
  • I thank you all so much. Gonna have fun.
  • Super glue doesn't have the shear strength to hold parts under any kind of stress together. It also dries harder than styrene so oversanding the plastic around the join can be an issue. Some guys use the thicker CA as a filler but you have to catch it at just the right time in the setting action to sand it. I'll use it on fiddly bits like shifters, steering wheels, etc. but 99% of the adhesive I use in styrene modeling is styrene cement. Testors Liquid still has a place on my bench along with Tamiya Extra Thin (same stuff as Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner BTW) and Model Master "Liquid Cement" and Tamiya Thin (orange cap)-both thicker versions of liquid cement. There are also "space age" liquid cements that dry ridiculously fast like Styrene Tack-It (formerly Tenax 7R), Plastruct Bondene, Micro Mark Same Stuff, etc. Some guys also use plain ol' MEK but my experience with it hasn't been good.The majority of my work is done with Tamiya Extra Thin and MM Liquid Cement with the occasional hit of Styrene Tack-It for a quick join.
For all the fillers I've used over the last 50ish years of scale modeling I've narrowed them down to two-Tamiya Putty White and Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Deluxe Materials filler is water based so if I have a tricky place to fill the ability to clean up excess with a wet Q-tip is ideal. I went through a phase where I was using auto spot putty and Sikkens Kombi proved to be the best of the bunch I used but it all has an aggressive solvent base that attacks plastic which is sometimes optimal, sometimes not. I decided in the end it was better to go with something that didn't do that. And I always prime my filler work so it doesn't absorb paint, just like in the real world.

Paint is going to wind down to your personal preference. Testors was bought out by RPM (Rustoleum) and they've pretty much destroyed the US enamel paint lines like Model Master, Floquil and Pactra. A shame as I rather liked Colors by Boyd for my automotive builds and most of my military stuff was done in Model Master. But there are plenty of others out there in enamel, lacquer and acrylic paints as well as a lot of offerings in spray paint.

You tube is a treasure trove of information about tricks, techniques and reviews of everything from kits to tools to materials. And there has been a increasing number of podcasts lately that offer the same.

And for fun-fresh off the bench Airfix 1/48 Hawker Hurricane Mk. I, 145 Squadron June 1940. Humbrol paints, decals by Xtradecal:

View attachment 1715648780
I guess I'm a rare duck... I use a bunch of things. All depends on what I'm gluing, painting etc.

For basic assembly I use super glue, for putting bodies onto chassis I use model glue (melts the plastic together) and for windows, clear parts I use PVA elmers glue. Leaves the windows clear still.

For paint I use actual autobody paint for the body. I prime in flat black, flat grey or white. Most of my detail work is done with water based paints and matt cleared afterwards.

If you have a specific part you need help with, post up, lots of great builders here...

Riddler
Super glue doesn't have the shear strength to hold parts under any kind of stress together. It also dries harder than styrene so oversanding the plastic around the join can be an issue. Some guys use the thicker CA as a filler but you have to catch it at just the right time in the setting action to sand it. I'll use it on fiddly bits like shifters, steering wheels, etc. but 99% of the adhesive I use in styrene modeling is styrene cement. Testors Liquid still has a place on my bench along with Tamiya Extra Thin (same stuff as Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner BTW) and Model Master "Liquid Cement" and Tamiya Thin (orange cap)-both thicker versions of liquid cement. There are also "space age" liquid cements that dry ridiculously fast like Styrene Tack-It (formerly Tenax 7R), Plastruct Bondene, Micro Mark Same Stuff, etc. Some guys also use plain ol' MEK but my experience with it hasn't been good.The majority of my work is done with Tamiya Extra Thin and MM Liquid Cement with the occasional hit of Styrene Tack-It for a quick join.

For all the fillers I've used over the last 50ish years of scale modeling I've narrowed them down to two-Tamiya Putty White and Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Deluxe Materials filler is water based so if I have a tricky place to fill the ability to clean up excess with a wet Q-tip is ideal. I went through a phase where I was using auto spot putty and Sikkens Kombi proved to be the best of the bunch I used but it all has an aggressive solvent base that attacks plastic which is sometimes optimal, sometimes not. I decided in the end it was better to go with something that didn't do that. And I always prime my filler work so it doesn't absorb paint, just like in the real world.

Paint is going to wind down to your personal preference. Testors was bought out by RPM (Rustoleum) and they've pretty much destroyed the US enamel paint lines like Model Master, Floquil and Pactra. A shame as I rather liked Colors by Boyd for my automotive builds and most of my military stuff was done in Model Master. But there are plenty of others out there in enamel, lacquer and acrylic paints as well as a lot of offerings in spray paint.

You tube is a treasure trove of information about tricks, techniques and reviews of everything from kits to tools to materials. And there has been a increasing number of podcasts lately that offer the same.

And for fun-fresh off the bench Airfix 1/48 Hawker Hurricane Mk. I, 145 Squadron June 1940. Humbrol paints, decals by Xtradecal:

View attachment 1715648780
 
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