early a body torsion bar ?

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With the adjuster almost all the way out, your suspension will droop! Tighten then at least 3/4 way while they are still up on jackstands. Remember the bars wrap up under load, The odd number is driver (from the BACK) and the even is passenger. put the numbers at the back for simple sake. Picture the bar wrapping up when the LCA loads up, rotates CW (driver side). It pushes the adjuster strut up into the floating torsion bar socket 'arm' until it hits and then starts twisting the bar. This is where your adjustment is made. The bar can only twist so far as it gets progressively harder. Even a 6 bar will hold up a 440, but it will really be jouncy on bumps. This is driver side....and they got the bar in (note floating pivoting hex arm) but its just showing you the strut and the arm. PST bars are sometimes not clocked on their bigger bars, ie. the flats are parallel on each end. So if your LCAs are 'hanging' straight down, the arm of the socket (end of line in pic) should still be pointing down about at your butt if your sitting down. and yes, it takes a jack to raise the spindle end of the LCA to mate it up with the full hung UCA. Be careful at this point as it is unstable and you dont want to raise the car off your jackstands, bring your UCA's down to meet the spindle, as they still got some drop in them while they are just sitting there on their bushings. Use a bar or something. Believe me, I have taken them out and put them back in with just a pipe wrench on the socket and manually pushing it down (with my foot!) to line up the hex but your case may be a little different.
Front-Hex-Socket-Pivoting.jpg


Another thread on beefy PST bars

Clocking lower control arms and PST 1.03 torsion bars. 72 Dart
 
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With the adjuster almost all the way out, your suspension will droop! Tighten then at least 3/4 way while they are still up on jackstands. Remember the bars wrap up under load, The odd number is driver (from the BACK) and the even is passenger. put the numbers at the back for simple sake. Picture the bar wrapping up when the LCA loads up, rotates CW (driver side). It pushes the adjuster strut up into the floating torsion bar socket 'arm' until it hits and then starts twisting the bar. This is where your adjustment is made. The bar can only twist so far as it gets progressively harder. Even a 6 bar will hold up a 440, but it will really be jouncy on bumps. This is driver side....and they got the bar in (note floating pivoting hex arm) but its just showing you the strut and the arm. PST bars are sometimes not clocked on their bigger bars, ie. the flats are parallel on each end. So if your LCAs are 'hanging' straight down, the arm of the socket (end of line in pic) should still be pointing down about at your butt if your sitting down. and yes, it takes a jack to raise the spindle end of the LCA to mate it up with the full hung UCA. Be careful at this point as it is unstable and you dont want to raise the car off your jackstands, bring your UCA's down to meet the spindle, as they still got some drop in them while they are just sitting there on their bushings. Use a bar or something. Believe me, I have taken them out and put them back in with just a pipe wrench on the socket and manually pushing it down to line up the hex but your case may be a little different.
View attachment 1715641847 thanks alot i will try this again on sat,,,i pretty sure the /6 bar will hold it up...it did after i did the engine swap. i know they are not going to work for me ...but still think they should hold it up...

Another thread on beefy PST bars

Clocking lower control arms and PST 1.03 torsion bars. 72 Dart
 
here is a update...i have the lca almost vertical, adjuster bolt is almost out, bar is in.... but now i cant raise the lcu without lifting the car off the stand...before lca moves....its like iam one hex two much...i dont know now...
 
try the next hex, they are 60 degrees difference! You got the bars part numbers on the correct side? Odd number driver side as factory bars ARE clocked to each side, pre-stressed for that direction. Use the next hex and run the adjusters half way in.
 
try the next hex, they are 60 degrees difference! You got the bars part numbers on the correct side? Odd number driver side as factory bars ARE clocked to each side, pre-stressed for that direction. Use the next hex and run the adjusters half way in.
i never had the bars out, just slid them back to get the lca out,,,i tried the next hex....but that puts me back to where i was,,,,it wont hold the front up
 
how far out are your adjuster on the "wont hold it up" hex? run the all the way in....slant bars will need alot of preload for a 440.
 
the second pic is the position i cant raise the lca, the other two pics are of one hex back where i have been all along....at that position it wont hold up the front end..

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WP_20201205_11_53_32_Pro.jpg


WP_20201205_12_36_25_Pro.jpg
 
no luck.....back to where i was,,,,i guess ill wait until i get my bb bars...and try again,,,, unless anyone has anymore thoughts or ideas
 
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Sounds like the bars are just not strong enough hold everything up. If you stand the torsion bars next to each other on end, and you match one end flat to flat, the other end of the bars should be point to point IIRC. I've seen some bars that were on the verge of snapping that were twisted far enough to where they were almost flat to flat on both ends. If you're not drag racing, I'd put some heavy duty bars in there along with a good sway bar. Sure helps on the handling.
 
Sounds like the bars are just not strong enough hold everything up. If you stand the torsion bars next to each other on end, and you match one end flat to flat, the other end of the bars should be point to point IIRC. I've seen some bars that were on the verge of snapping that were twisted far enough to where they were almost flat to flat on both ends. If you're not drag racing, I'd put some heavy duty bars in there along with a good sway bar. Sure helps on the handling.
thanks....
 
so here's an update, so i got the bb torsion bars, thanks eddie, removed the uca bump stop, dropped down the lca, put the torsion bar boots in boiling water, cut a transmission fluid funnel to the size of the hex on the torsion bar then slid the boots up the funnel end and onto the tbars no problem...then loosened the adjuster bolt almost all the way out, and made sure the lca hex was turned down, slid the bars right in no fighting them, ran the adjuster in to where the head of the adjuster was flush with the bottom of the lca, with the lca pivot nut loose, lowered the car off the stands, it is up on its own...bounced it up and down a few times shocks are not on yet. not sure howto adjust the uca cam bolts good enough to test drive it...thoughts?
 
I always adjust the upper control arm to get the most amount of caster to start with (front bolts out, rear bolts in) and rough in the toe with a tape measure. That's usually good enough to get it to an alignment shop, or hold you over til you can spend the time to properly align it.
 
I always adjust the upper control arm to get the most amount of caster to start with (front bolts out, rear bolts in) and rough in the toe with a tape measure. That's usually good enough to get it to an alignment shop, or hold you over til you can spend the time to properly align it.
ok thanks...
 
I'd get it aligned right away. You can sure tear up some tires in a short period of time if they're off. You could also have steering and handling problems in an emergency.
 
thanks sat i will be back working on it, i have to jack it back up and get the tension off of the tbars again, and try to get the bars in more to get the clips on, the bars seems to stop not far enough to get the clips in the groove...driverside i can see the groove some what, pass side not at all....thoughts
 
The even numbered bar (with the R after it) goes on the right side (passenger side in the U.S.) Rather than fight the lower control arm, I keep the nut on the lower control arm pin slightly loose where it goes into the K-member, leave the shock off, and keep the control arm unattached to the spindle. Lower the control arm as far as it will go, have the adjustment bolt backed off most of the way (but still in far enough for it to sit in it's cup) and install the torsion bar. Then tension it up and install the rest of the parts. Keep the nut on the lower control arm pin loose until you get the ride height set and front end aligned.
 
Yes, you can install them wrong. First, make sure they're on the correct side. After that, it's a matter of getting them clocked right so you can achieve the correct tension on them.
My bars from my unmolested 71 duster are marked <892R/221> and the other end is <UHL/892R and the other bar is marked <892R/231> and the other end is <UJB/892R>. They both appear to be right side bars. Any thoughts??????
 
Yes you have two of the same bars. Torsion bars are always even number and the other is odd number.
 
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