Flywheel and Clutch Advice (340)
Don't buy a diaphragm clutch unless you want to have problems with your clutch pedal not returning.
For a streeter
IMO, this advice is misleading at the best;
The solution to that is incredibly simple, and
the diaphragm style has several advantages;
Because it requires a fraction of the leg-power to operate, as compared to a Hi-Perf 3-finger, you can modulate engagement much better, and can toe-the-clutch effortlessly.
Also because it requires a fraction of the leg-power to operate, this opens the door to getting one with superior clamping force.
And it seemed to me that the CF clutch was less weight too.
To eliminate the sticking-to-the-floor-problem, you gotta do three things; 1) remove the over-center spring off the pedal assembly, and 2) only push the pedal down as far as you need to, to achieve minimum clutch departure of about .080, to disconnect the power, and 3) if you have to, if you have to, put a block on the floor to limit pedal travel.
The CF is my second PressurePlate, after bluing the crap out of a B&B.
I did not like the harshness of the CFII disc, so I swapped in a stock factory 340 disc. They don't last very long behind a 430 hp 367, maybe a year or two, but they are cheap and easy to replace, now that I swapped in an alloy case.
My CF was new in about 2002, and has probably 100,000 miles on it.
But I gotta warn you; with the CFII disc, at 430hp, it likes to break stuff behind it. So you better have the big U-joints and such. With the 340 disc, it tends to tear out the spring pockets and eject the springs, and/or shred the friction rings.
