Hotchkis TVS with QA1 lower control arms

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autoxcuda said:
Nice.

Very cool drewmac and kursplat were able show what they did in same situation and help.

You’ve done some real nice work and detail on this car. Don’t let your foot off the gas.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I used your thread on the milodon road race pan when I was choosing my oiling setup. A lot of good info on here
 
@drewmac did you shorten your end links?
I see it was suggested but I can't find if you did or not.
 
matthon said:
@drewmac did you shorten your end links?
I see it was suggested but I can't find if you did or not.
Click to expand...

I actually had some on there before I did the TVS kit that were shorter and worked I just used the bushing that came with the kit. I can measure them if you want.
 
So, I'm bored, it's frigid out, and I've got my k-frame inside with QA1 lowers and a Hotchkis sway bar.

First, read instructions.

I initially bolted the frame brackets to the k-frame first, using the front hole for the original sway bar bracket, but it was clear the other hole did not line up, and if I just drilled it out, the sway bar would bind up in the bushings/brackets.

I'm skipping 3F for now as I have the QA1 lcas.
Bolt on the sway bar bushings, brackets, and frame mounts - done.
Lined up the front holes, 1 on each side.

A few issues, in my mind anyway.
The brackets do not sit flush against the k-frame for 2 reasons.
The factory weld seam at the edge, see pic with washer.
Also, when they bend the frame brackets the metal curls, or bunches up, at the corners, causing high spots, see pic.

So, the plan is to grind some clearance for the weld, it's more of an issue on one side, and grinding off the high spots at the corners.

Once they are flush and the bar is level to the k-frame, I think I'll bolt the front to the original hole, and weld them on.

The other triangle hole in the bracket is not even close to the other original hole, see pic. I'm not even going to bother trying to drill a round hole in a triangle, hole.

Last thing, granted the k-frame is upside down on the floor, and the brackets are not flush, but the end links appear to be off by 3/4 of an inch on both sides.

Once everything is back together, the k-frame is in, new sway bar brackets on, if I have to relocate the lca end link brackets, or weld on the ones they provide, or whatever, so be it.

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20201216_011044.jpg
 
matthon said:
So, I'm bored, it's frigid out, and I've got my k-frame inside with QA1 lowers and a Hotchkis sway bar.

First, read instructions.

I initially bolted the frame brackets to the k-frame first, using the front hole for the original sway bar bracket, but it was clear the other hole did not line up, and if I just drilled it out, the sway bar would bind up in the bushings/brackets.

I'm skipping 3F for now as I have the QA1 lcas.
Bolt on the sway bar bushings, brackets, and frame mounts - done.
Lined up the front holes, 1 on each side.

A few issues, in my mind anyway.
The brackets do not sit flush against the k-frame for 2 reasons.
The factory weld seam at the edge, see pic with washer.
Also, when they bend the frame brackets the metal curls, or bunches up, at the corners, causing high spots, see pic.

So, the plan is to grind some clearance for the weld, it's more of an issue on one side, and grinding off the high spots at the corners.

Once they are flush and the bar is level to the k-frame, I think I'll bolt the front to the original hole, and weld them on.

The other triangle hole in the bracket is not even close to the other original hole, see pic. I'm not even going to bother trying to drill a round hole in a triangle, hole.

Last thing, granted the k-frame is upside down on the floor, and the brackets are not flush, but the end links appear to be off by 3/4 of an inch on both sides.

Once everything is back together, the k-frame is in, new sway bar brackets on, if I have to relocate the lca end link brackets, or weld on the ones they provide, or whatever, so be it.

View attachment 1715649982

View attachment 1715649983

View attachment 1715649985

View attachment 1715649988

View attachment 1715649989
Click to expand...

So, I'm bored, it's frigid out, and I've got my k-frame inside with QA1 lowers and a Hotchkis sway bar.

First, read instructions.

I initially bolted the frame brackets to the k-frame first, using the front hole for the original sway bar bracket, but it was clear the other hole did not line up, and if I just drilled it out, the sway bar would bind up in the bushings/brackets.

I'm skipping 3F for now as I have the QA1 lcas.
Bolt on the sway bar bushings, brackets, and frame mounts - done.
Lined up the front holes, 1 on each side.

A few issues, in my mind anyway.
The brackets do not sit flush against the k-frame for 2 reasons.
The factory weld seam at the edge, see pic with washer.
Also, when they bend the frame brackets the metal curls, or bunches up, at the corners, causing high spots, see pic.

So, the plan is to grind some clearance for the weld, it's more of an issue on one side, and grinding off the high spots at the corners.

Once they are flush and the bar is level to the k-frame, I think I'll bolt the front to the original hole, and weld them on.

The other triangle hole in the bracket is not even close to the other original hole, see pic. I'm not even going to bother trying to drill a round hole in a triangle, hole.

Last thing, granted the k-frame is upside down on the floor, and the brackets are not flush, but the end links appear to be off by 3/4 of an inch on both sides.

Once everything is back together, the k-frame is in, new sway bar brackets on, if I have to relocate the lca end link brackets, or weld on the ones they provide, or whatever, so be it.

View attachment 1715649982

View attachment 1715649983

View attachment 1715649985

View attachment 1715649988

View attachment 1715649989[/QUOTE]

Please take a few wider shots of the brackets on the K memeber so I can see how you are lined up. Also I ran into the same problem with the sway bar tabs not lining up right. I just waited to connect mine till I had the car on the ground and the were really darn close then. There is a bit of bind when you jack the car up and let the tires hang but I don't really see an issue wit that. I am not jumping the car on a regular basis! :)
 
hope it works out. after doing mine, i wouldn't even attempt it off the car. too much adjustment prior to welding the brackets
 
drewmac said:
Please take a few wider shots of the brackets on the K memeber
Click to expand...
Done.
kursplat said:
after doing mine, i wouldn't even attempt it off the car. too much adjustment prior to welding the brackets
Click to expand...
They actually sent me 4 frame brackets, I painted 2, and 2 are still bare steel.
I'll make them sit flush on the k, bolt the front, tac the rear, and put everything on the car.
The weld seams on the k is keeping the brackets from sitting flat, more so on one side.
Brackets are bolted to the farthest hole.

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A better pic showing how the edges are not flat.
The pic shows the side that's raised more due to the larger welded seam.
It's more obvious on the other side how it prevents it from laying flat, but harder to get a good pic with black against black.

20201217_123437.jpg
 
matthon said:
A better pic showing how the edges are not flat.
The pic shows the side that's raised more due to the larger welded seam.
It's more obvious on the other side how it prevents it from laying flat, but harder to get a good pic with black against black.

View attachment 1715650939
Click to expand...

If you are looking straight on at the sway bar is the K member right behind it or above it? It looks like you have the brackets in the right spot but let me go look at mine.
 
Behind. Sway bar is more above the bottom of the k than below it, and that's with the brackets tilted at an angle due to the welds.
Granted, on the car the k is more at an upward angle towards the front than in this pic, but the sway bar would still be in the same area in relation to the k.

In any case, moving the lca up and down, it doesn't get any closer to the end link than 3/4.

That is going by the specs that the end links must be vertical, and I'm interpreting that as meaning vertical to the seat in the sway bar as well as the lca end link mount.
It doesn't appear to mean perpendicular to the ground, I imagine they would state it that way if so.

Also, instructions state the span between the end link brackets, on the lca, must match the width of the sway bar.
They do not, hence the 3/4 difference on both sides.

I really want to get it all on the car and see the geometry when it's at ride height before saying it lines up or not, or is within a reasonable tolerance, or whatever.
Just showing what I'm seeing now.

In my mind, the big takeaways are to mount the brackets to the sway bar first, then determine where the brackets need to be on the k, and get them flat against it.
Using the factory bolt holes in the front lines it up very well, side to side and front to back, and the reality is moving it forward, back, side to side, doesn't get it closer or in a better plane in relation to the lca.

If I had just bolted the brackets on the k first, the sway bar would bind up, of course that would mean I didn't read the instructions.

20201217_124815.jpg
 
matthon said:
...In my mind, the big takeaways are to mount the brackets to the sway bar first, then determine where the brackets need to be on the k, and get them flat against it.
Click to expand...
yup. also mine did the same thing. cut some filler pieces out of 1/8" and weld it all together. looks good
 
matthon said:
Behind. Sway bar is more above the bottom of the k than below it, and that's with the brackets tilted at an angle due to the welds.
Granted, on the car the k is more at an upward angle towards the front than in this pic, but the sway bar would still be in the same area in relation to the k.

In any case, moving the lca up and down, it doesn't get any closer to the end link than 3/4.

That is going by the specs that the end links must be vertical, and I'm interpreting that as meaning vertical to the seat in the sway bar as well as the lca end link mount.
It doesn't appear to mean perpendicular to the ground, I imagine they would state it that way if so.

Also, instructions state the span between the end link brackets, on the lca, must match the width of the sway bar.
They do not, hence the 3/4 difference on both sides.

I really want to get it all on the car and see the geometry when it's at ride height before saying it lines up or not, or is within a reasonable tolerance, or whatever.
Just showing what I'm seeing now.

In my mind, the big takeaways are to mount the brackets to the sway bar first, then determine where the brackets need to be on the k, and get them flat against it.
Using the factory bolt holes in the front lines it up very well, side to side and front to back, and the reality is moving it forward, back, side to side, doesn't get it closer or in a better plane in relation to the lca.

If I had just bolted the brackets on the k first, the sway bar would bind up, of course that would mean I didn't read the instructions.

View attachment 1715650942
Click to expand...

That looks a lot like mine as far as the bar/ K member relationship. Can you undo the bar and just do a bracket shot straight down? I just want to see where the triangle hole lines up. Sorry to ask all this of you. Just want to be helpful.
 
drewmac said:
Can you undo the bar and just do a bracket shot straight down? I just want to see where the triangle hole lines up.
Click to expand...
If I undo the bar placing the bracket would not be accurate.
In the pic, the very edge of the left side of the factory round hole is seen in the top right of the triangle.

20201220_003928.jpg
 
kursplat said:
cut some filler pieces out of 1/8" and weld it all together.
Click to expand...
I think we're talking the same thing.
I was thinking of making the bracket fit flush to the k-frame, and you put filler pieces to make up any space between the two.
The angle of the bracket doesn't matter, but the placement does.
Unfortunately I have to wait for warmer weather to continue.
 
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