I am in the process of removing the factory undercoating on my 73 Duster. My plan is to hit it with Rustoleum or something similar then use Raptor liner as the new undercoating. I have searched on this site for suggestions on a product to use but haven't made a final decision so if anyone wants to help with that great. My question is on prep. Everything I have read on here says there must be some rust present for those products to work. I have basically gone down to bare metal. I don't want to have to do this again down the road because of a failure now. Any help? Before, during and after pics.
Rust converter
- Thread starter Angryman
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ChrisRomello
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Por15, makes Metal immortal. Their “metal prep” is a rust converter that will work even on trace amounts of rust.
I did what Chris suggested and then the Raptor over the top and the metal prep is important to use before the Por-15.
Your doing a great job on your car by the way.
Your doing a great job on your car by the way.
rklein383
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I used this stuff. Rust Mort™ | morttm | SEM Products
It works really well, and is very simple to use.
It works really well, and is very simple to use.
Or...Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood
rklein383
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Personally, I like the Rust Mort because you can see with your own eyeballs that the red rust is gone and has been replaced with a black oxide layer, kind of like gun bluing. I have had metal sit for months unpainted and the metal that was protected with Rust Mort was still perfect. I just don't like painting over rust and hoping for the best.
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matthon
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Read the tech sheets carefully.
Some cannot be applied to bare metal, and most have specific unique instructions.
I just read the rust mort tech sheet and you can leave it on or rinse it off, but there is more to it.
I chose the Eastwood stuff because it can be brushed or sprayed, and most important, put over rust or bare metal.
It has it's own special instructions as well, for example must top coat after 4 hours but before 48, can be left without top coat if no direct constant exposure to sunlight, iirc.
Eastwood then Rustoleum satin primer/paint.
Some cannot be applied to bare metal, and most have specific unique instructions.
I just read the rust mort tech sheet and you can leave it on or rinse it off, but there is more to it.
I chose the Eastwood stuff because it can be brushed or sprayed, and most important, put over rust or bare metal.
It has it's own special instructions as well, for example must top coat after 4 hours but before 48, can be left without top coat if no direct constant exposure to sunlight, iirc.
Eastwood then Rustoleum satin primer/paint.
Not rust converter but a easy way I found to remove the under coating is Easy off oven cleaner, spray on let sit 15 min and pressure washer it off.
Eastwood has a internal frame coating too that destroys rust hiding inside chassis so it won't rust through. Comes with a long tube so can spray down into the frame.
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.)
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Spray (14-oz.)
This is what I was hoping to hear in replies. I have a friend that is pushing Por-15. I am worried about prep. I seem to remember people saying if not prepped right it will peel off in sheets. Not sure if accurate or just tall tales from web. Any experience with the Eastwood left as the topcoat? Not sure I will be applying the Raptorliner before the 48hr window and it wouldn't be in direct sunlight.
Interesting. I might have gone this way but I am not blowing the car apart and putting on a rotisserie. I am using an air powered needle scaler and laying on my back, lol. Not to mention it is December in Mn so pressure washer is out for awhile.
I used Rustoleum DTM industrial oil based paint on mine and it covered wonderfully. I've used it in the past as well and like it.
Not an old wives tale about POR15 peeling off in sheets. I sprayed the bottom of a hood for my Challenger with POR15 after using a generic metal etch on it. Same primary ingredient as the POR15 brand metal prep. Followed the instructions on the POR15 otherwise. Looked great, then had an edge come up when I was moving the hood around. Peeled off in sheets.
What you've got there is basically bare metal, I'd treat it accordingly and not use POR15 on it. @matthon has the right idea.
matthon
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I left it after the 48 hrs and you just have to scuff it prior to paint.
If the Raptorliner can go over paint, just hit it with paint before the 48 hrs are up.
What's wrong with just using the encapsulator and then paint and calling it done?
Is there really that much flying around under the car to warrant putting another product on the undercarriage?
I'm asking for myself as well. I've toyed with the idea of finally cleaning up my car, but I don't want to gob another product all over it.
I found a brand new never used spray can of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, and after wire wheeling the back side of my dash I was all ready to try it out.
Unfortunately the sprayer wouldn't work, tried cleaning it, but it was the can itself. Dammit!
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