What is your 451 stroker combo?

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Okay, the Stealth heads will limit the power that is for sure. So if you're using Stealth heads then maybe shoot for 450 to 500 hp on the dyno. Probably use a Performer RPM (if it fits under your hood) and something small like the Mopar .528 cam. I wouldn't buy the actual Mopar cam anymore since I think they charge a ton of money and the quality is probably sketchy at best but buy something in that neighborhood. Here is an article I did 20+ years ago: Moparts on the Web - Main Index


I feel as though I have read that article before. LOL. Excellent bit of info, thanks! That is one thing I found odd is the engine builder prefers me to get the Torker intake. I would have thought he would want me to find a nice dual plane, since it is a street car.

My main points I told him are:

- Reliable
- Strong
- A good thump (I am a sucker for a nice idle)

I know going with a 451 or even one of the 440s mentioned in post #24 will get me to what I am happy with. As I do not want to put a cage in the car. I do plan to run scattershield for obvious reasons. I feel my current 440 would have gotten me there if it decide to sign up for early retirement and have transmission issues.
Low compression (8/8.5-1) flat tops way in the hole
Comp XE274H cam
Stealth heads
TTI 1 3/4" headers
Torker 440 intake (I know totally wrong combo, later switched to a Mopar dual plane)
1" carb spacer
850 Holley
Stock ignition
Timing 23* initial, 36* total
Centerforce clutch
4 speed
3.91
275/60 Nitto drag radials
Best ET of 13.07@104 on a cool dreary day.

Now it is time for a proper combination to be built and have some fun.
 
451 with Ross pistons, H-Beams, SFT Cam 246 TFS240 cleaned up and ported .035 quench with perf rpm ported, made 612hp and 625TQ with 12" vaccum for power brakes, fantastic street engine.
 
451 venolia dome pistons 400 rod with childs&alberts tool steel pins 426 crank .625 comp roller stage 6 ported heads timing locked at 35 degrees I have had this motor 20yrs now going in its 4th car
1st car tube chassis daytona with ported iron heads 9.80 142 mph best time
2nd car 70 cuda glass nose all steel otherwise and factory windows 10.40's/10.50's
3rd car 70 Dart up graded to the stage 6's best 10.08 134 mph at milan mi ran teens and 20's normally
4th car 67 belvedere 2 work in progress
 
13.07 w/the Torker or MP/DP?
That combo just seems to miss on a little compression.


Like I said it was a low compression 440 and I know the Torker was not the proper intake to choose. I used what I had at the time. The 13.07 was ran with the Torker on. I did not get to run it with the dual plane unfortunately. I was still learning about the car at the track. My 60' times suffered due to bogging off the line. Trans decided not to like me power shifting, so missed shifts happened. I maybe have 10 passes under my belt with the 440 in the car. I feel it has more there if it was healthy. I just needed to figure out what I had to do better. Showing my ROOKIE card here. LOL.
 
The old torker was surprisingly a very good intake. The was some testing with various intakes and it performed very well across the rpm range. Sounds like some tuning issues [carb]. Shifting practice and you easily have amid 12 second car. I would still like to know what crank and rods you are going to use in your 451 build.
 
The old torker was surprisingly a very good intake. The was some testing with various intakes and it performed very well across the rpm range. Sounds like some tuning issues [carb]. Shifting practice and you easily have amid 12 second car. I would still like to know what crank and rods you are going to use in your 451 build.

I agree. More practice. I also think a synchro or something wore out. It was regularly a third gear miss. The gear felt like it went in but was spongy feeling and nothing there. If that makes any sense. I never got to play with the timing or carb to see what the sweet spot was. It was ran exactly how I ran it down the highway.

I am not sure what the builder has in mind for a rotating kit. All I am supplying is the block and other parts needed for assembly. Sorry I don't have the knowledge for all of that. I have been doing a ton of research lately but have not done enough hands on to trust myself to build it. All he has mentioned so far is he likes to use Mahl or Ross pistons but will use Diamond. Prefers small mechanical cam but will run a Hydraulic if I want. I know I will get full details eventually but mainly telling him my goals and trusting his skill set and experience on the build.

Just thought Id toss a post up to see what types of builds are out there and to see what I am getting into.
 
I agree. More practice. I also think a synchro or something wore out. It was regularly a third gear miss. The gear felt like it went in but was spongy feeling and nothing there. If that makes any sense. I never got to play with the timing or carb to see what the sweet spot was. It was ran exactly how I ran it down the highway.

I am not sure what the builder has in mind for a rotating kit. All I am supplying is the block and other parts needed for assembly. Sorry I don't have the knowledge for all of that. I have been doing a ton of research lately but have not done enough hands on to trust myself to build it. All he has mentioned so far is he likes to use Mahl or Ross pistons but will use Diamond. Prefers small mechanical cam but will run a Hydraulic if I want. I know I will get full details eventually but mainly telling him my goals and trusting his skill set and experience on the build.

Just thought Id toss a post up to see what types of builds are out there and to see what I am getting into.
Check out the stroker kits from 440 source for some info. You can build a 470ci ,499ci or a 512ci for the same cost as a 451.
 
I built a 470" a few years back..it lives in my 69 B'cuda with a 4spd and 3:73 gears...it's a street toy and hasn't been down the track. On a chassis dyno it made 420 whp@ 5500 rpm(can easily spin past that,I was being conservative) and 500+ ft lbs all the way up. It idles nicely at 900 rpm. Pulls hard through the mid range and RPMS quick!...BFG radial TAs don't stand a chance...lol!

Here's the list: 400 block at 4.375, Eagle 3.900 crank, Manley 6.76 rods, Diamond Pistons at 10.2:1 with OOTB Eddy heads, Comp street solid roller XR 280R 242/248@.050 with .570/.576 lift,Comp rockers,Smith Bros. pushrods, Eddy Perf RPM intake and a Holley 800 DP. CPPA underchassis headers(much like TTI) with 3" exhaust to the rear bumper

Good luck with the build...these low deck strokers have tons of potential!!
 
I built a 470" a few years back..it lives in my 69 B'cuda with a 4spd and 3:73 gears...it's a street toy and hasn't been down the track. On a chassis dyno it made 420 whp@ 5500 rpm(can easily spin past that,I was being conservative) and 500+ ft lbs all the way up. It idles nicely at 900 rpm. Pulls hard through the mid range and RPMS quick!...BFG radial TAs don't stand a chance...lol!

Here's the list: 400 block at 4.375, Eagle 3.900 crank, Manley 6.76 rods, Diamond Pistons at 10.2:1 with OOTB Eddy heads, Comp street solid roller XR 280R 242/248@.050 with .570/.576 lift,Comp rockers,Smith Bros. pushrods, Eddy Perf RPM intake and a Holley 800 DP. CPPA underchassis headers(much like TTI) with 3" exhaust to the rear bumper

Good luck with the build...these low deck strokers have tons of potential!!
That's a really nice build for a street car. Putting in a four speed '69 Barracuda is just icing on the cake. I think we all would love to see some pics of that one!
 
Nothing fancy...could use a ton of trim work,etc but I have fun with it!

sK3vMaD.jpg
 
That’s Sharp! You just about can’t beat black and Cragars together. Especially on a 2nd Gen barracuda.
 
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Thanks guys! Fun car with Hellwig front and rear sway bars, 73-up disc brake swap, polygraphite bushings, KYB shocks, SS springs and homemade frame connectors. Nothing fancy here just a fun little toy. Back to the OPs topic. Have fun with the low deck stroker!!
 
I built a 470" a few years back..it lives in my 69 B'cuda with a 4spd and 3:73 gears...it's a street toy and hasn't been down the track. On a chassis dyno it made 420 whp@ 5500 rpm(can easily spin past that,I was being conservative) and 500+ ft lbs all the way up. It idles nicely at 900 rpm. Pulls hard through the mid range and RPMS quick!...BFG radial TAs don't stand a chance...lol!

Here's the list: 400 block at 4.375, Eagle 3.900 crank, Manley 6.76 rods, Diamond Pistons at 10.2:1 with OOTB Eddy heads, Comp street solid roller XR 280R 242/248@.050 with .570/.576 lift,Comp rockers,Smith Bros. pushrods, Eddy Perf RPM intake and a Holley 800 DP. CPPA underchassis headers(much like TTI) with 3" exhaust to the rear bumper

Good luck with the build...these low deck strokers have tons of potential!!

Wow! I am digging your build. As I read and learn more. I feel we will be talking a bit more when I drop the block off to him. Thanks for sharing!
 
Okay, the Stealth heads will limit the power that is for sure. So if you're using Stealth heads then maybe shoot for 450 to 500 hp on the dyno. Probably use a Performer RPM (if it fits under your hood) and something small like the Mopar .528 cam. I wouldn't buy the actual Mopar cam anymore since I think they charge a ton of money and the quality is probably sketchy at best but buy something in that neighborhood. Here is an article I did 20+ years ago: Moparts on the Web - Main Index


I have learned my builder highly recommends using BB Chevy rod journal diameter. I know you ran this in the engine in your article. Whats your thoughts on that now?
 
I have learned my builder highly recommends using BB Chevy rod journal diameter. I know you ran this in the engine in your article. Whats your thoughts on that now?
For Sure I would do the 470 with 6.70 rods much better build
 
Landed myself a deal on some adjustable rockers. So solid cam it is. This will be a change for me. Everything I have had has been a hydraulic FT. All I have been told is I will love it.
 
I'm surprised you haven't gotten some more definitive answers on why the bbc crank pin sizing is beneficial. The two that come to mind right off. First, less clearance issues in the block and less grinding at the bottom of the cylinder bores with the smaller rod end. Second, less bearing speed, which equates to less friction and a stronger hydrodynamic oil "wedge". Also, I'll have to check,(or maybe someone can chime in) but if IIRC, the aftermarket cranks with small journals have the counterweights set to the heavy side so that material only has to be removed instead of adding weight to balance them.
 
I'm surprised you haven't gotten some more definitive answers on why the bbc crank pin sizing is beneficial. The two that come to mind right off. First, less clearance issues in the block and less grinding at the bottom of the cylinder bores with the smaller rod end. Second, less bearing speed, which equates to less friction and a stronger hydrodynamic oil "wedge". Also, I'll have to check,(or maybe someone can chime in) but if IIRC, the aftermarket cranks with small journals have the counterweights set to the heavy side so that material only has to be removed instead of adding weight to balance them.

Good to know. Thank you! I also was told using the Chevy stuff leaves more options for rod choices and they are cheaper?? Obviously we all like to save a little coin where we can but without sacrificing quality.

All I need to round up is a 6 quart oil pan. One that works for the factory Abody K member and steering, and works for a stroker. Any tips on this?
 
Thanks. That thing looks gorgeous!

Thanks it was repainted a couple of times then I sold it 2017 to buy a street strip car I'm building now, but to help out the OP the combination was 452 rb stock stroke with Indy ez-1 best time was 10:10@132mph
 
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