Darn oil pan

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mopower440

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I installed the oil pan that is recommended for an A body big block swap and noticed the idler/draglink STILL hits the pan in another spot other than where the pan has the notched dimple..Is anyone else having that problem?
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There are several polar opposite opinions with regard to using Milodon pans, clearly a love hate relationship, but they do have a pan that solves that problem for you. A lot of folks on here have not had good luck with Milodon quality control of late and a equal number of folks have had no issues. Regardless it may be a viable solution for you?
 
wondering why everyone sells these stock pans with the dimple saying they clear for big block A bodys when they dont?
 
Just curious-is it possible the trans mount and engine mounts are affecting this? I mean can you (depending on the front mounts) shim /adjust or raise the engine and trans just a bit? Sagged /worn mounts can drop it closer to the draglink too. Not trying to dog on your ride .just that I have run into issues like this on my other Mopars but not my a body.
 
wondering why everyone sells these stock pans with the dimple saying they clear for big block A bodys when they dont?
Some gain enough clearance by shimming their motor mounts, most end up using the correct idler/pitman arm like the factory used, in conjunction with a suitable pan- which you have. Or dimpling the pan.
 
Who's pan? And what year of idler arm?
The idler is for a 1968-72 which the car is a 1972 and the pan is one of the stock pans with the notch in it that everyone sells in the for sale section for use with an A-body big block swap..cant remember the 3 digit number but i 'think' they were C-body pans?
 
The idler is for a 1968-72 which the car is a 1972 and the pan is one of the stock pans with the notch in it that everyone sells in the for sale section for use with an A-body big block swap..cant remember the 3 digit number but i 'think' they were C-body pans?
Per my link above, the factory big blocks used different idler/pitman arms, which I've only reliably found through FirmFeel. Check the factory part books. Different numbers.
 
Per my link above, the factory big blocks used different idler/pitman arms, which I've only reliably found through FirmFeel. Check the factory part books. Different numbers.
Not sure if it would fit my car though because it lists it as for 1967-69 big block and mine is a 1972..?
 
The idler is for a 1968-72 which the car is a 1972 and the pan is one of the stock pans with the notch in it that everyone sells in the for sale section for use with an A-body big block swap..cant remember the 3 digit number but i 'think' they were C-body pans?
Your talking about a 187 pan.
 
Not sure if it would fit my car though because it lists it as for 1967-69 big block and mine is a 1972..?
They fit. '68-'72 is the same suspension. "67 used a stud mount idler and the steering linkages changed in '73 by inverting the studs.
 
idler was the same no matter which engine. Only the pitman arm was different with a big block. Just dimple the pan some more. It doesn't take much, BUT on my Barracuda I decided to use a B-body baffled pan and see how the 73-76 steering linkage fit. PERFECT. No dimpling necessary...
 
BUT on my Barracuda I decided to use a B-body baffled pan and see how the 73-76 steering linkage fit. PERFECT. No dimpling necessary...

@Jim Lusk I know the 73-76 parts (pitman, cross link, idler) invert the studs compared to the earlier parts.
Do they lower the cross link? Or does it end up in the same relative height?
 
@Jim Lusk I know the 73-76 parts (pitman, cross link, idler) invert the studs compared to the earlier parts.
Do they lower the cross link? Or does it end up in the same relative height?

Overall height is the same, BUT the critical place where the early link hits is lower to meet the stud that points down...My Barracuda already had a late power box and steering linkage when I bought it so I didn't have to piece it together.
 
Messing around with it today, not really sure how to dimple this thing without busting or cracking the pan, especially where its already kinked it in from hitting. I smacked it a few times with a hammer and it didnt budge so i quit before i broke something. How do you dimple it without cracking it? Also, it IS the 187 pan and has the notch just like the one 440 source sells..not sure why its hitting further from where the notch is. I would have to shim the engine an inch or higher to clear it so that aint going to work..
 
Wondering if something else is going on with my particular car because doesnt seem to be a widespread problem with other BB A-bodies on here.. If the engine could go back about an inch, it would line up the notch in the pan and the link but the engine cant go back any. I have more shims that came with the motor mount kit i may try but i dont know if i can get it that much higher. The 'bend' in the link where it bolts doesnt just stop when it hits the pan, it keeps riding up under the pan a little ways trying to lift the engine up until the steering hits its stop
 
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