904 to 727 upgrade.

-
I've heard a lot of silly talk about "parasitic drag"...Claims that the 904 saves tons of horsepower over a 727; same with a C4 over a C6, and a th350 over a th400. But in every case, either the kd wasn't properly set up after the change, or the original large converter was used.
Duane, isn't the non-lockup input shaft from something beside a slant six compatible to eliminate the lockup feature? I'd love to see a write-up on using an eighties 999 or whatever with the five plate dual bushed direct drum, wider band, and low gear first; with the retrofit non lockup feature. Along with the pump gear conversion to eliminate the converter lugs.
 
Hey gang upgrading my 74 Dart Swinger to a 727. Car will have an 8.25 rear. What are the things that need changed to accept new trans? I'm thinking front yolk, driveshaft length, and transmission mount. Can you purchase the driveshaft already made for this combo? Please let me know and Happy New Year!
I have used 904s with no issues in a number of A bodies. I would normally build the 904 I have but the 727 is a TCI street fighter and is new in box and came with the car. It's a 450 horse 360 that will be running a 4:10 gear. Quick reliable with occasional track time. I'll gladly send the 727 down the road and do the 904 but I figured the bird in hand thing and the 727 is like a 1300 dollar trans.
 
Why is everyone trying to convince him to go with a 904 when he already has a 727???

Run what you have and make it work....
 
Thanks for all the good info fam.


If you are running a console shift, then the linkages should interchange, they did for me when I swapped a 727 in for a 904 on an e-body challenger...

If you are running a column shift, the shift linkages for the 727 are different from the 904... Z-bar, bracket for the z-bar that bolts to the trans, the bracket for the trans lever, and the linkage rod are all different... I'm going through this on a 71 Valiant...
 
Last edited:
I've heard a lot of silly talk about "parasitic drag"...Claims that the 904 saves tons of horsepower over a 727; same with a C4 over a C6, and a th350 over a th400. But in every case, either the kd wasn't properly set up after the change, or the original large converter was used.
Duane, isn't the non-lockup input shaft from something beside a slant six compatible to eliminate the lockup feature? I'd love to see a write-up on using an eighties 999 or whatever with the five plate dual bushed direct drum, wider band, and low gear first; with the retrofit non lockup feature. Along with the pump gear conversion to eliminate the converter lugs.
The info that I have always heard about the performance improvements of a 904 over a 727 when both equally built are about
.15 faster in the quarter mile. To me the real benefit of the 999 version is it had all the best beefy parts and the 2.74 low gear. The planetaries are all steel and both are 4 pinion. The front drum in the late 80,s model came with the 5 clutch front drum. Also a better thrust washer design between the input and output shaft. It also uses a 4 clutch rear drum, double wrap low reverse band. No one seems to pay attention to these because of the lockup feature, but the internals had all the best stuff in them.
The first one I converted, I used a 2 ball stator and an input shaft from a slant trans. To use the 5 clutch front drum on the 2 ball stator requires machining on a lathe to cut a bevel to clear the wider drum. There is a .060 though difference on the seal ring diameter
Between a 2 ball stator and a 3 ball lockup stator. So to use a lockup 4 clutch forward drum on a 2 ball stator also requires machining the bore in the stator to 1.560 from 1.500.
If you put a non lockup forward clutch into a lockup stator, it will bolt together without any machining, but the .060 thou difference in sealing ring diameter will cause a big hydraulic leak and you will not get any forward motion.
I converted my first and only lockup 999 to non lockup by doing this machining. It worked fine.
However years later I am questioning whether I really needed to use a 2 ball stator. I am currently reviewing the hydraulic passages of an
A500 overdrive trans that a friend donated to me. It has a larger higher volume pump gear with the "d" drive on it. The gears are also only 11 lobes which are a higher pump volume. The front drum
Is unique to this stator with 2 different diameter bushings versus the regular one bushing. This drum and pump stator assembly could be used in a non lockup as long as those parts stay together.
To answer your question about the input shaft, yes you could use the input shaft from any non lockup 904-999 for the conversion.

My current 904 in my drag car has a 2.74 factory steel rollerized 4 pinion front planetary, rollerized steel 4 pinion rear planetary, the new 1,000 ft pound rear sprag from ati, red lined double wrap low reverse band with a&a solid low reverse servo, double rollerized output support, 1.75 inch wide red line 2nd gear band, with double
Ring billet servo, aluminum 4 clutch rollerized 4 clutch drum with 5 thin clutches, 4 clutch lockup forward clutch into 2 ball ported stator with a&a big lug heavy duty race pump gears, with a turbo action
4600 pro series converter with the optional thick walled drive hub,
and new transact pro comp nitro brake with safe neutral. Billet ati input shaft and lightened rollerized sunshell.
Overkill for what I need, but I only paid for parts and all the machining and labour I did my self.
But I am looking at an easier way to just do a basic conversion to non lockup without all the machining. I am not 100% sure but I think you can still use a 3 ball stator. Just change the input shaft and the valve body to non lockup. There should be some pics in my profile of my trans.
 
Exactly!!!!!!!!
Agreed but it's just that most of us have been down the 727 road
and do not view going to a 727 from a 904 as an upgrade. It is the other way. Is the 727 stronger, yes, does it have more clutch surface, yes, but it is also heavier and does not come with a 2.74 low gear which really improves low end torque on the street and strip. This gear set can be found relatively cheap. Not so with the 727. The right version of the 904(999) is plenty strong enough for most small blocks. The low gear will allow a lower numerically rear gear ratio for better mileage while still having great acceleration from the stop light.
 
Agreed but it's just that most of us have been down the 727 road
and do not view going to a 727 from a 904 as an upgrade. It is the other way. Is the 727 stronger, yes, does it have more clutch surface, yes, but it is also heavier and does not come with a 2.74 low gear which really improves low end torque on the street and strip. This gear set can be found relatively cheap. Not so with the 727. The right version of the 904(999) is plenty strong enough for most small blocks. The low gear will allow a lower numerically rear gear ratio for better mileage while still having great acceleration from the stop light.
It's over he's using the 727.
 
Yeah didn't want all the educated drama, just wanted to know what to do for the swap. Probably not going to use the forum for a while. Just too harsh. Jeeze.
It's winter man it gets crazy here with all the crab ***'s.
 
Good luck with that the Total Crap Incorporated trans. I had lasted about 1 week they're garbage!!

If your making any kind of real power expect the Total Crap Tranny to go "BOOM" sooner or later!!:eek::eek:
 
That's some awesome info Duane. I know it takes an incredible skill level to put all that together and have it work right. I certainly appreciate the sharing and I'll spend the next few days deciphering it all.
 
That's some awesome info Duane. I know it takes an incredible skill level to put all that together and have it work right. I certainly appreciate the sharing and I'll spend the next few days deciphering it all.
I hope it can help someone.
 
Using the 727 is fine. I used one in my dart sport 360. Cuz it was behind the 360 out if a 75 chrysler cordoba. Rebuilt it with 4 or 5 clutch front drum 4 planetary front and rear. T/A prostreet valve body, 3.8 kickdown lever and a 9.5" FTI 3400-3600 stall converter. Shift like a dream and the 3.91's out back make up for the 2.45 1st gear!:steering:
 
The info that I have always heard about the performance improvements of a 904 over a 727 when both equally built are about
.15 faster in the quarter mile. To me the real benefit of the 999 version is it had all the best beefy parts and the 2.74 low gear. The planetaries are all steel and both are 4 pinion. The front drum in the late 80,s model came with the 5 clutch front drum. Also a better thrust washer design between the input and output shaft. It also uses a 4 clutch rear drum, double wrap low reverse band. No one seems to pay attention to these because of the lockup feature, but the internals had all the best stuff in them.
The first one I converted, I used a 2 ball stator and an input shaft from a slant trans. To use the 5 clutch front drum on the 2 ball stator requires machining on a lathe to cut a bevel to clear the wider drum. There is a .060 though difference on the seal ring diameter
Between a 2 ball stator and a 3 ball lockup stator. So to use a lockup 4 clutch forward drum on a 2 ball stator also requires machining the bore in the stator to 1.560 from 1.500.
If you put a non lockup forward clutch into a lockup stator, it will bolt together without any machining, but the .060 thou difference in sealing ring diameter will cause a big hydraulic leak and you will not get any forward motion.
I converted my first and only lockup 999 to non lockup by doing this machining. It worked fine.
However years later I am questioning whether I really needed to use a 2 ball stator. I am currently reviewing the hydraulic passages of an
A500 overdrive trans that a friend donated to me. It has a larger higher volume pump gear with the "d" drive on it. The gears are also only 11 lobes which are a higher pump volume. The front drum
Is unique to this stator with 2 different diameter bushings versus the regular one bushing. This drum and pump stator assembly could be used in a non lockup as long as those parts stay together.
To answer your question about the input shaft, yes you could use the input shaft from any non lockup 904-999 for the conversion.

My current 904 in my drag car has a 2.74 factory steel rollerized 4 pinion front planetary, rollerized steel 4 pinion rear planetary, the new 1,000 ft pound rear sprag from ati, red lined double wrap low reverse band with a&a solid low reverse servo, double rollerized output support, 1.75 inch wide red line 2nd gear band, with double
Ring billet servo, aluminum 4 clutch rollerized 4 clutch drum with 5 thin clutches, 4 clutch lockup forward clutch into 2 ball ported stator with a&a big lug heavy duty race pump gears, with a turbo action
4600 pro series converter with the optional thick walled drive hub,
and new transact pro comp nitro brake with safe neutral. Billet ati input shaft and lightened rollerized sunshell.
Overkill for what I need, but I only paid for parts and all the machining and labour I did my self.
But I am looking at an easier way to just do a basic conversion to non lockup without all the machining. I am not 100% sure but I think you can still use a 3 ball stator. Just change the input shaft and the valve body to non lockup. There should be some pics in my profile of my trans.

After some investigation this week, I think I have figured out a way to convert a lockup trans to non lockup while still using a 3 ball lockup stator and requires no machining.
As far as I can tell the 3 ball stator uses a 3rd oil passage and an additional sealing ring on the input shaft that is used to operate the lockup converter. The 2 ball stator simply does not have this 3rd passage drilled because it is not required.
There are no differences on the case.
Although this method may not be the cheapest way to do it, it should work. The main parts to be changed are the valve body, the torque converter and you would have to buy a 27 spline, yes 27 not 26 input shaft that a&a trans sells. This is a 300m billet input shaft specially made for the lockup trans. Although it says in the catalogue that it is a 2 ring, it also says it is 27 spline so that it can be used with common non lockup aftermarket converters. The reason that you cannot use the standard 1 ring input shaft is that the bushing and sealing ring surfaces in the lockup stator are placed differently to allow the second sealing ring. Therefore the two shafts are dedicated to there respective staters. The a&a 2 ring shaft is still designed for for the lockup stator but operates as a non lockup with the aftermarket converter and valve body.
This shaft is not cheap, but would allow the conversion to non lockup without any custom machining. It also appears that an A500 flat drive pump and stator assembly could be used with this shaft as well as long as that front drum and stator stay together. Or the other option one could do is use the flat drive pump and gears with any 904 build as long as the converter has the appropriate drive on it. I have not tried this way of converting to non lockup, so don't hold me to it, but from what I can see it should work.
This method would allow a late eighties lockup trans which had all the best heavy duty parts for v8 use to be used as is with just an input shaft, converter change and valve body change.
 
Last edited:
That's some awesome info Duane. I know it takes an incredible skill level to put all that together and have it work right. I certainly appreciate the sharing and I'll spend the next few days deciphering it all.

This video helps explain some of the differences.
 
-
Back
Top