Do I need a nitrous converter?

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Brooks James

VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot
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I’m thinking that I don’t need a nitrous converter
904 tranny in excellent condition
360 magnum 100 shot of gas
3500 street converter
Reverse manual valve body
What do you think???
 
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imo i think anything under a 250 shot you will be safe . also i think a a progressive nitrous controller would take care of things it starts the shot off at 20% and increases with a set time like 2 seconds for example . instead of 100% instantly .
 
this means that i'm interested in this topic and am waiting to read all the posts . also i get notifications to tell me when someone posts .
I was ready to send a curt reply because I thought it might be a slam or jab definitely glad I didn’t
Thanks keep me posted
 
imo i think anything under a 250 shot you will be safe . also i think a a progressive nitrous controller would take care of things it starts the shot off at 20% and increases with a set time like 2 seconds for example . instead of 100% instantly .
Thanks really appreciate it
 
imo i think anything under a 250 shot you will be safe . also i think a a progressive nitrous controller would take care of things it starts the shot off at 20% and increases with a set time like 2 seconds for example . instead of 100% instantly .
I read up on controllers does it actually control the flow or does it kick in at at a preset time
 
When we were racing,we followed a rule that an N/A car was an N/A car and a nitrous car was a nitrous car, regardless of the shot level. Pretty much everything on a nitrous car should take No2 in consideration. Everything right down to the ground. If you're not going to build the entire car to take advantage of nitrous, there's really no point. Even with a small shot. Because sooner or later, you're gonna wonder what a bigger shot will do. The converter, chassis, tires......all of it should be tuned for nitrous. I've seen some otherwise fast nitrous cars get SPANKED by N/A cars simply because the car wasn't set up correctly. I guess what I'm trying to say is, people sometimes look at nitrous as an "add on" and that's not the way to do it. When considering nitrous, the whole package needs to be built and tuned accordingly. Even small shots.
 
When we were racing,we followed a rule that an N/A car was an N/A car and a nitrous car was a nitrous car, regardless of the shot level. Pretty much everything on a nitrous car should take No2 in consideration. Everything right down to the ground. If you're not going to build the entire car to take advantage of nitrous, there's really no point. Even with a small shot. Because sooner or later, you're gonna wonder what a bigger shot will do. The converter, chassis, tires......all of it should be tuned for nitrous. I've seen some otherwise fast nitrous cars get SPANKED by N/A cars simply because the car wasn't set up correctly. I guess what I'm trying to say is, people sometimes look at nitrous as an "add on" and that's not the way to do it. When considering nitrous, the whole package needs to be built and tuned accordingly. Even small shots.
If some is good, more is better. U always want to go faster. Kim
 
A good nitrous controller can adjust both opening amount and ramp rate. Almost as important as the nitous tune. It works by cycling the on/open rate of the solenoids. You can soften the hit, and ramp in the nitrous so it just adds power without breaking the tires loose. In other words, good traction and tires, ramp in more/faster. Street tires, on the street, slower/slower.
Softening the "hit" also lessens the abuse to the drivetrain/converter.
 
A good nitrous controller can adjust both opening amount and ramp rate. Almost as important as the nitous tune. It works by cycling the on/open rate of the solenoids. You can soften the hit, and ramp in the nitrous so it just adds power without breaking the tires loose. In other words, good traction and tires, ramp in more/faster. Street tires, on the street, slower/slower.
Softening the "hit" also lessens the abuse to the drivetrain/converter.

But the hit is so much fun.
 
With the power you are throwing at it you do not need a nitrous convertor.

If it can take the full hit right out of the gate and you don't have to use a nitrous controller or activate it after your 1st or 2nd shift, the only thing you may see is a little higher flash on the stall speed which won't hurt anything.
 
A good nitrous controller can adjust both opening amount and ramp rate. Almost as important as the nitous tune. It works by cycling the on/open rate of the solenoids. You can soften the hit, and ramp in the nitrous so it just adds power without breaking the tires loose. In other words, good traction and tires, ramp in more/faster. Street tires, on the street, slower/slower.
Softening the "hit" also lessens the abuse to the drivetrain/converter.
That is exactly what I needed to hear
 
If some is good, more is better. U always want to go faster. Kim
Yes agree too much nitrous without mods can be a bad thing. I had a buddy that bought a bottle of nitrous for personal use. I I stopped by his house one day and I found him passed out with a huge bump on his forehead. Lol
Seriously I don’t see a small shot putting a major strain on the car. I’m no doing a 250 shot and . I also plan on activation after the car has come out of the hole and the tires stop spinning as the suspension I am going to tightly clamping the leaf springs have excellent shocks aod tires. I’m not going to bracket race the car just have a little fun from stoplight to stoplight i am mainly concerned about the motor that is why I will be using a timing retard and controller a/ff gauge to meter the mix and all the other stuff like plug heat range ,gap and so on
I have absolutely no plan to go larger than a 100 shot I feel it would be too risky
 
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Yes agree too much nitrous without mods can be a bad thing. I had a buddy that bought a bottle of nitrous for personal use. I I stopped by his house one day and I found him passed out with a huge bump on his forehead. Lol
Seriously I don’t see a small shot putting a major strain on the car. I’m no doing a 250 shot and . I also plan on activation after the car has come out of the hole and the tires stop spinning as the suspension I am going to tightly clamping the leaf springs have excellent shocks aod tires. I’m not going to bracket race the car just have a little fun from stoplight to stoplight i am mainly concerned about the motor that is why I will be using a timing retard and controller a/ff gauge to meter the mix and all the other stuff like plug heat range ,gap and so on
I have absolutely no plan to go larger than a 100 shot I feel it would be too risky. I have no notion that that this is a plug an play situation
 
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