EFI tank with Carbureted engine plumbing questions

Great read, actually went back to the beginning of the thread. I have some time before the tank and 3/8s hardlines arrive (oh the joys of a 1st gen cuda) to continue to researching regulators. Also continued reading about the pump, which has a filter built in, so I am currently leaning to go with a 40 micron before the regulator and than the straight into the carb.

A little additional information, at this stage I have zero plans to go fuel injection on this motor, so the Holly 12-880 is probably out. When I upgraded my rearend with a moser braced axle housing I lost to much clearance between the brace and the sender. In certain situations, speed bumps or turning into a driveway the brace hits the sender, gas comes out which I hear is a bad thing. I modified a new sender and attempted to clock it at a different angle with no luck. The EFI tank eliminates the sender in the side of the tank by moving it to the top and gives the additional clearance, which I believe will solve that problem

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Glad you found it useful. We can learn from each other. :)
Seems to me that switching tanks is a good solution. Hopefully you can get a float-resistance arrangement to provide a semi-accurate indication of fuel level on the gage. That will be a challenge of its own as you probably know.
Filters. I agree. A carb doesn't need super fine filteration. That will be the same as it did with a mechanical pump. So it comes down to whether the electric pump needs something finer.
Could also stick with mechanical pump if you wanted. Biggest disadvantage is the long suction line. Advantage is no need to rework the electical system.