doopdoop67
Well-Known Member
Hey fellas, I’ve been looking into a 150 shot for my 360. Edlebrock rpm power package with 10.1 pistons on stock rods. Anyone ever done that? I just wanna hear everyone’s thoughts? What do you do for ignition system??
Cheater plate!
- Thread starter doopdoop67
- Start date
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Many years ago (2001 ish) I built a 360 for nitrous (JE forged pistons, file fit the rings for nitrous) and used a cheater plate. I used stock rods, but I had ARP bolts on the rods (and ARP main and head studs). My ignition was all MSD (6AL, blaster 2 coil, billet distributer), ran 28° timing. Fuel side was a Holley blue pump. I think that was all....anyway, in Colorado at Bandimere speedway (about 9000' DA in the summer) the car went from high 13's NA to 11 flat on the bottle....twas fun. 
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Wow....., just wow. Atmosphere in a bottle.Many years ago (2001 ish) I built a 360 for nitrous (JE forged pistons, file fit the rings for nitrous) and used a cheater plate. I used stock rods, but I had ARP bolts on the rods (and ARP main and head studs). My ignition was all MSD (6AL, blaster 2 coil, billet distributer), ran 28° timing. Fuel side was a Holley blue pump. I think that was all....anyway, in Colorado at Bandimere speedway (about 9000' DA in the summer) the car went from high 13's NA to 11 flat on the bottle....twas fun.
Forgot to add...plugs were NGK R5671-9's (pretty cold). Unfortunately they would foul out under normal street use pretty fast, but worked well with the spray. I also ran a mix of race fuel and 92 octane gas (about 50:50).Many years ago (2001 ish) I built a 360 for nitrous (JE forged pistons, file fit the rings for nitrous) and used a cheater plate. I used stock rods, but I had ARP bolts on the rods (and ARP main and head studs). My ignition was all MSD (6AL, blaster 2 coil, billet distributer), ran 28° timing. Fuel side was a Holley blue pump. I think that was all....anyway, in Colorado at Bandimere speedway (about 9000' DA in the summer) the car went from high 13's NA to 11 flat on the bottle....twas fun.
Also to note, if I recall correctly the 11 flat runs were on the "180" shot pills....it ran 11.4 on the "150" shot.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
Very nice. You had a good tune on the car. That's alot of ET to gain out of that shot. Your Converter must have really liked it....
JW
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
The best way to think of nitrous oxide injection is to understand you are adding a fair amount of combustion pressure and temperature. Estimate your naturally aspirated horsepower and torque and then add your nitrous kit to that.
If you currently have an honest 350 horsepower and you add 100 horsepower (actual increase, not the kit suggested power), and you use it for short blasts of fun without complete traction and under about 5500 to 6000 RPM you will probably not have any issues with your stock rods.
If you currently have, let’s say 450 horsepower and you add 100 horsepower your stock rods and rod bolts become questionable.
If your stock rods were rebuilt with ARP rod bolts, I would not worry about it at that nitrous level.
You also did not mention the rest of your combination, so everything is guesswork. Do you have forged pistons or hypereutectic pistons? The hypers are brittle and should not be pushed hard, but at 450 hp total you would likely be ok if ring gaps are not below specs.
doopdoop67
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the feed back! It’s got stock rods rebuilt with ARP hardware. It has speed pro forged pistons. I’d imagine I’m making about 430 horse. Edlebrock advertises 417 horse for a stock bottom end with the rpm power package that’s with like 9.1 compression I believe. So I’d say I’m making somewhere around 420-430 horse to the crank.
ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
I would get a controller that would let you ramp the nitrous in progressively. That way you can add the shot in over a set amount of time and not be hitting the bottom end all at once. You might also want to open up the ring end gaps some to keep them from butting together.
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