Will a Stock 489 handle 700hp?

Have you had a stock 8.75, 489 hold up to 700hp while racing?

  • Yes

    Votes: 11 27.5%
  • No

    Votes: 29 72.5%

  • Total voters
    40
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I know a guy running 9s in Dart with 8 3/4" foot brake car but its pushing it.
I have the same dillema as you and am leaning towards building Dana 60...

You can put billet caps on 489 but there will be some cost of machining involved.

You can get a Dana 60, brand new for $3k. I found them online. I paid $2k for a piece of crap 8-3/4 from someone in this forum. It eats pumpkin for lunch. It's stock but I can't even drive it now and have to save $3k on top of the $2k loss. If you have the choice, I would definitely go with the Dana. And I will never spend more than say a couple hundred bucks buying anything in this forum again. A $2k burn sizzles a long time. And I didn't even get to put my foot into it, I am still on engine break in.
 
You can get a Dana 60, brand new for $3k. I found them online. I paid $2k for a piece of crap 8-3/4 from someone in this forum. It eats pumpkin for lunch. If you have the choice, I would definitely go with the Dana. And I will never spend more than say a couple hundred bucks buying anything in this forum again. A $2k burn sizzles a long time.
I know it wasn't one of mine I built, cause I never heard anything about it.
 
I know it wasn't one of mine I built, cause I never heard anything about it.

Nope, it sure wasn't one of yours. I am hoping the guy gets back with me. I told him a few days ago I wanted to return it and he hasn't gotten back with me, well he called at 10pm after I had told him not to call after 9pm.
 
Nope, it sure wasn't one of yours. I am hoping the guy gets back with me. I told him a few days ago I wanted to return it and he hasn't gotten back with me, well he called at 10pm after I had told him not to call after 9pm.
Man good luck what is breaking. What kind of power are you putting to it.
 
Man good luck what is breaking. What kind of power are you putting to it.

I have tried to describe the noise I am hearing to a couple people who say they have never heard a diff make the gargle noise. I told them it is whining on the high way, and it makes some kind of grumbling, grinding, like a metallic gargle sound under 20mph. When the shop pulled the 742, that was in it after about 150 miles, they said the gears for sure were out and they didn't disassemble it to see if the bearings were wiped, but I imagine with the metallic gargle sound that they are.

The housing was welded on, the guy I got it from had a brace welded onto it. The shop that I had install it the first time said they did it right then wrong, welding intermittently, like 1-2 inches at a time, but then there was also a long like over a foot long weld on it. I assume that it is bent, warped, twisted, or what have you and is not holding everything straight. The guy I got it from keeps telling me to have this checked and that check and have a shop check this and that I have spend over $2,500 over the $2k I bought it for including the $1,500 489 now in it, and I refuse to spend another dime on it. I bought a race 489 from Dr Diff to put in it, @ $1,500 and it made the same noises after 40 miles or so. So I quit driving it. It has made the whining noise once at 50mph for about 5 seconds before I slowed down to 40 and it quit, then when I was 400 yards from the house doing about 15 or so around a 90 degree corner, it made the gargle sound about the same 4-5 seconds. So I parked it and haven't driven it. I haven't even put 150 horses through the first one, and not even maybe 50 if that through the 489 just highway hp. Something is not lined up right inside it I'm certain.
 
With you having so much trouble with different third members, I would say the housing is way out. It is a shame people won't stand behind what they sell. Hell I've refunded people a few times for stuff that wasn't right.
 
That's what I told him. Everything else is the sa me. I pulled an 8-1/4 out and put his 8-3/4 in, 40 miles later it made noises, it is intermittent so I drove it further. He keeps telling me to record the noise. I'm like, I spent $1,500 on this center section, it's going nowhere. And I want my $$ back. I know it's a lot of money, but I am out more than him even if he paid me back. Then I have to pay someone to remove it, find another housing, pay to have parts checked for accuracy or damage, then assemble it and put it back in. If I got my money back, that would go a long way to helping me get the job fixed, but then I would need axles. I have to get the 489 checked for damage, fix anything wrong with it.... Damn!

Thanks for your input,
At least there are some good people left in this world
 
That's what I told him. Everything else is the sa me. I pulled an 8-1/4 out and put his 8-3/4 in, 40 miles later it made noises, it is intermittent so I drove it further. He keeps telling me to record the noise. I'm like, I spent $1,500 on this center section, it's going nowhere. And I want my $$ back. I know it's a lot of money, but I am out more than him even if he paid me back. Then I have to pay someone to remove it, find another housing, pay to have parts checked for accuracy or damage, then assemble it and put it back in. If I got my money back, that would go a long way to helping me get the job fixed, but then I would need axles. I have to get the 489 checked for damage, fix anything wrong with it.... Damn!

Thanks for your input,
At least there are some good people left in this world
Yeah you have sure had your share of bad luck.
 
I ran a 452" BB in E body Cuda, 489 8 3/4, ATI 5600 stall and 3400# in the 90s. Ran 1.39 60 foots and 10.20s
Put a Mark Williams billet cap on the Ring side, never had an issue.

The Stick cars are the ones that are HARD on diffs.
 
Yeah you have sure had your share of bad luck.

It is still just a little too soon to say for sure he won't, but it don't look good that's for sure.

I was driving a little fast and my rider said, "Don't push your luck, you don't want to get a ticket." I replied, "What luck"... lol
 
I have tried to describe the noise I am hearing to a couple people who say they have never heard a diff make the gargle noise. I told them it is whining on the high way, and it makes some kind of grumbling, grinding, like a metallic gargle sound under 20mph. When the shop pulled the 742, that was in it after about 150 miles, they said the gears for sure were out and they didn't disassemble it to see if the bearings were wiped, but I imagine with the metallic gargle sound that they are.

The housing was welded on, the guy I got it from had a brace welded onto it. The shop that I had install it the first time said they did it right then wrong, welding intermittently, like 1-2 inches at a time, but then there was also a long like over a foot long weld on it. I assume that it is bent, warped, twisted, or what have you and is not holding everything straight. The guy I got it from keeps telling me to have this checked and that check and have a shop check this and that I have spend over $2,500 over the $2k I bought it for including the $1,500 489 now in it, and I refuse to spend another dime on it. I bought a race 489 from Dr Diff to put in it, @ $1,500 and it made the same noises after 40 miles or so. So I quit driving it. It has made the whining noise once at 50mph for about 5 seconds before I slowed down to 40 and it quit, then when I was 400 yards from the house doing about 15 or so around a 90 degree corner, it made the gargle sound about the same 4-5 seconds. So I parked it and haven't driven it. I haven't even put 150 horses through the first one, and not even maybe 50 if that through the 489 just highway hp. Something is not lined up right inside it I'm certain.

How hard are the axles to install? Have you checked the wheel bearings? Even if the housing is bent bad I can't see it causing problems with the third member in 40 miles. You may have other issues.
 
Will it hold 700 hp? No, but you dont have 700 hp anyway. Arnt you the guy who was gonna patent some bullshit carb spacer that was gonna add 200 HP or some nonsense?
 
What's it to ya?

At least I have a brain I am doing something with.

Low end torque is harder on the diff than 700hp at the top. I have had outstanding results increasing low end torque. I'm just trying to stay safe, that's all. Plus, I never, ever, ever said it would increase it by 200. I have been trying to get it dynoed to find out. I increased the torque by 75 ft lbs in the range between 2000-2500 rpm.
 
I was just trying to recall if that was you....thanks for the confirmation, BUT, has allready been pointed out, 700 hp, if hooked up, will break a 8 3/4 quickly. If you keep breaking parts driving around on the street, you probably have other issues, again, as previously mentioned
 
I was just trying to recall if that was you....thanks for the confirmation, BUT, has allready been pointed out, 700 hp, if hooked up, will break a 8 3/4 quickly. If you keep breaking parts driving around on the street, you probably have other issues, again, as previously mentioned


I haven't put "any" hp through either one of these pumpkins. There is something wrong with the housing.
 
My buddy runs a 10.30 68 dart stroked small block, foot brake & 2 step, I believe he uses the crush sleeve eliminator. He runs 28×10.5 slicks, funny thing was I thought he was running a Dana but no, when I was putting jack stands under it for warm up it was a braced 489 case
 
My buddy runs a 10.30 68 dart stroked small block, foot brake & 2 step, I believe he uses the crush sleeve eliminator. He runs 28×10.5 slicks, funny thing was I thought he was running a Dana but no, when I was putting jack stands under it for warm up it was a braced 489 case

Yeah, I'm more concerned with 8 3/4 housing integrity than the drop-out itself.. I've seem many more bent housings than damaged drop-outs.
Back in the day, a buddy of mine had to take a torch to his housing, in order to save his Strange axles and spool. Bent so bad, it wouldn't come apart.
Big torque, lots of gear, heavy car, wheel stands.
 
You can spend all the money you want....sooner or later the pinion gear will eat the teeth on the ring gear.....bracing...new caps...still same old unsupported pinion gear.
 
Yeah, I'm more concerned with 8 3/4 housing integrity than the drop-out itself.. I've seem many more bent housings than damaged drop-outs.
Back in the day, a buddy of mine had to take a torch to his housing, in order to save his Strange axles and spool. Bent so bad, it wouldn't come apart.
Big torque, lots of gear, heavy car, wheel stands.
Yeah, I was going to run a 8.75 But future plans of t-brake made me buy a Dana.
I do wonder though if guys are welding the back brace on without any sort of help to keep it from warping, I'd use a jig to tie the housing studs and ends together maybe along with the mittler narrowing jig. Just a thought.
 
You can spend all the money you want....sooner or later the pinion gear will eat the teeth on the ring gear.....bracing...new caps...still same old unsupported pinion gear.
So I guess by your analysis a Dana 60, 70, or 80 pinion is unsupported? Therefore weak? I've said it many times before, There is a reason why a 9" has three bearings, Because the inner and outer main bearings are a 1/2" apart! without the nose bearing it has no lateral support! But you that want to believe the 9" with it's puny 1.313 Diameter pinion ( smaller than the 741 which is 1.375 ) is better, carry on.
 
Yeah, I was going to run a 8.75 But future plans of t-brake made me buy a Dana.
I do wonder though if guys are welding the back brace on without any sort of help to keep it from warping, I'd use a jig to tie the housing studs and ends together maybe along with the mittler narrowing jig. Just a thought.

the brace has to be welded in completely, then the bearing collars installed. A good friend of mine just did one for another Stocker 6 months ago.
70aarcuda is right about the weak link. It is an eventuality. But for guys in Stock, they have to run what was in the option list. An 8 3/4.
Bracket racing, it's not much of an issue. Make up for it in the dial.
 
the brace has to be welded in completely, then the bearing collars installed. A good friend of mine just did one for another Stocker 6 months ago.
70aarcuda is right about the weak link. It is an eventuality. But for guys in Stock, they have to run what was in the option list. An 8 3/4.
Bracket racing, it's not much of an issue. Make up for it in the dial.
Oh, okay thanks for clarifying that. I was thinking more along the lines of narrowing a housing after doing the brace so it's still has the ends on it. Sorry that was in my head & didn't write it.
 
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