Suspension & Steering Shopping List
The '67-72 Hotchkis sway bar does work with the QA1 LCA tabs. Because of the difference in the tubular LCA's you'll probably have to shorten the end links to get things lined up right, but that's easy. The Hotchkis 67-72 sway bar will NOT work with the stock '67-72 sway bar tabs, so, if your '67 LCA's have factory sway bar tabs I would absolutely take them off. They're worth a ton more than the non-tabbed LCA's, and the tabs are in the wrong place for the Hotchkis bar.
The redesigned QA1 LCA's don't limit travel per say, they just return the suspension travel to factory. The original design did not have an LCA mounted bump stop, and because the tubular design's profile isn't as tall as the original LCA's it basically adds about 1" of travel. Which is super helpful for a lowered car. But you still have to add a bump stop somewhere, otherwise you can go metal to metal.
This is the change, below are the originals
This is the redesign. You can see the bump stop and the additional threaded boss. I like the boxed gusset, but the height of the threaded boss and bump stop removes the bonus travel the original design had.
This is my car with the QA1 LCA's. You can see the bump stop I added onto the frame, as well as my taller upper bump stop. Because my car is lowered, I have a thin lower bumpstop and a taller upper bump stop. That re-centers the range of travel, so my lowered ride height is still in the middle of the range of available suspension travel. If I had kept the stock sized bump stops, I would have very little upward travel and a TON of downward travel.
These are my lower bump stops
Energy Suspension 9.9132G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing
These are my upper bump stops. They're already taller than stock, although you can see I raised them up another 1/8". This is to keep my torsion bar adjusters in contact with the adjusting bolts. The 1.12" torsion bars, because they're stiffer, don't twist very much. So you have to center the range of travel to how much they twist, otherwise at full droop the adjusters unseat. It's the combination of being lowered and the large bars.
Energy Suspension 9.9136G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing
If you don't lower the car as much then you won't need bump stops that are as tall and short as mine. But you need to check the range of travel, when you start combining aftermarket parts the geometry changes. That's the point! But it also means that you need to check EVERYTHING, cycling the suspension through its range of travel to look for issues. Like the torsion bar adjusters unseating at the bottom, or not having enough upward travel, binding, interference, etc. With this set up, for example, I have 13" from the center of the spindle to the top of the inner fender. Meaning, if I were to install a tire more than 26" tall it could rub on the inner fender with the suspension completely bottomed out. Lots of stuff to consider!
The '67-72 Hotchkis sway bar does work with the QA1 LCA tabs. Because of the difference in the tubular LCA's you'll probably have to shorten the end links to get things lined up right, but that's easy. The Hotchkis 67-72 sway bar will NOT work with the stock '67-72 sway bar tabs, so, if your '67 LCA's have factory sway bar tabs I would absolutely take them off. They're worth a ton more than the non-tabbed LCA's, and the tabs are in the wrong place for the Hotchkis bar.
The redesigned QA1 LCA's don't limit travel per say, they just return the suspension travel to factory. The original design did not have an LCA mounted bump stop, and because the tubular design's profile isn't as tall as the original LCA's it basically adds about 1" of travel. Which is super helpful for a lowered car. But you still have to add a bump stop somewhere, otherwise you can go metal to metal.
This is the change, below are the originals
This is the redesign. You can see the bump stop and the additional threaded boss. I like the boxed gusset, but the height of the threaded boss and bump stop removes the bonus travel the original design had.
This is my car with the QA1 LCA's. You can see the bump stop I added onto the frame, as well as my taller upper bump stop. Because my car is lowered, I have a thin lower bumpstop and a taller upper bump stop. That re-centers the range of travel, so my lowered ride height is still in the middle of the range of available suspension travel. If I had kept the stock sized bump stops, I would have very little upward travel and a TON of downward travel.
These are my lower bump stops
Energy Suspension 9.9132G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing
These are my upper bump stops. They're already taller than stock, although you can see I raised them up another 1/8". This is to keep my torsion bar adjusters in contact with the adjusting bolts. The 1.12" torsion bars, because they're stiffer, don't twist very much. So you have to center the range of travel to how much they twist, otherwise at full droop the adjusters unseat. It's the combination of being lowered and the large bars.
Energy Suspension 9.9136G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing
If you don't lower the car as much then you won't need bump stops that are as tall and short as mine. But you need to check the range of travel, when you start combining aftermarket parts the geometry changes. That's the point! But it also means that you need to check EVERYTHING, cycling the suspension through its range of travel to look for issues. Like the torsion bar adjusters unseating at the bottom, or not having enough upward travel, binding, interference, etc. With this set up, for example, I have 13" from the center of the spindle to the top of the inner fender. Meaning, if I were to install a tire more than 26" tall it could rub on the inner fender with the suspension completely bottomed out. Lots of stuff to consider!
