340 break in question

Thanks guys, as always much good info and support here. Im running a new factory mechanical pump with a new Holley 3310. Ive inspected bowl and nut threads, reinstalled the bowl inlets that came on the carb and ditched the 5/16 inlets I got to accommodate the SS tubes factory style dual feed with smaller tube nuts. nice to actually get some bite with a3/4" wrench vs 1". Adapted from there to barb's and finishing out with fuel hose for now. Will leak test with a 6 psi electric pump. Also had the time, so pulled the oil sender and verified gauge needle movement via compressed air. In the excitement on Sunday I remember verifying tach before engine quit. I'll keep you all posted and thanks again.

Tim


Make DAMN sure you have at LEAST 35 degrees of timing on that engine AT 2000. That’s a MINIMUM. I’d rather see 40 or even 45 total.

Retarded timing builds heat, can stick exhaust valves, kill the top ring and such. Do NOT retard the timing.