New Dana 60 Help please

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RamCharger TEXAS

RamCharger TEXAS

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I have a 1973 Plymouth Gold Duster with w weak 7 1/4 I wanna ditch so I came across a dana 60 off this 4x4 Dodge Firetruck for 80 bucks but this thing has a 12 bolt pattern.

Also the wheels and rims that came with this differential where out of my price range is there an easier way to convert this to a more useful bolt pattern that I won't have to break the bank and it'll just work?

I had bought this Right stuff Detailing Disc conversion kit a while ago not knowing that it was for 8 3/4 and Dana. 60 only with green bearings. Could you guys lead me in the correct direction of what to do with what I have?

Sidenotes. I can still go get the wheels and tires for the rear for 100 for 3 wheels and tires

I have the brake lines yoke, and leaf springs from the truck also. And I have a video on YouTube with a more detailed look at th differential if anyone wants a better look.

7CF1F01F-915A-4A81-BEFC-CA3A178EFB32.png
 
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It's marked what it is. Look at the webbing where the tube attaches to the passenger's side in the FRONT. It's marked 60, 70 or "whatever" it is "somewhere" in that area.
 
How much horsepower will that thing suck up compared to the 7 1/4????
 
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RamCharger TEXAS said:
I have a 1973 Plymouth Gold Duster with asuoer weak 7 1/4 I wanna ditch so I came across a dana 60 off this 4x4 Dodge Firetruck for 80 bucks but this thing has a 12 bolt pattern.

Also the wheels and rims that came with this differential where out of my price range is there an easier way to convert this to a more useful bolt pattern that I won't have to break the bank and it'll just work?

I had bought this Right stuff Detailing Disc conversion kit a while ago not knowing that it was for 8 3/4 and Dana. 60 only with green bearings. Could you guys lead me in the correct direction of what to do with what I have?

Sidenotes. I can still go get the wheels and tires for the rear for 100 for 3 wheels and tires

I have the brake lines yoke, and leaf springs from the truck also. And I have a video on YouTube with a more detailed look at th differential if anyone wants a better look.

View attachment 1715668946
Click to expand...



you will need these Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60 Billet Steel Housing Ends
then you will need 35 spline axels some green bearings and seals . the axel tubes need to be cut the proper length and the new ends welded on there are videos on you tube . there is a lot more to it but you get the picture .
 
If you really want use that, prepare for a LOT of work. What ratio is it and year model is it out of? Identify what you have and what ratio it is first. That looks those the standard HD 8 on 6-1/2 truck pattern. Get a picture of the spring pads and the yoke for us. It looks to be a single rear wheel (not dually) axle, but those can be found in Dana 70 versions. If it is a single wheel 70, it will bring a nice chunk of change from someone over on the first Gen Cummins forum. And it will be way too big for practicality what with the 10-3/4 ring gear size as opposed to the 9-3/4 60. If it’s a HD 60, then it will have cast ductile steel spring pads on the axle tubes. But it will also have the same 35 spline axle shafts as the Dana 70. That may be a bonus, depending on how much power you may be planning on. But, you’re going to need to narrow it and put 8-3/4/Dana 60 passenger car housing ends on it, and aftermarket axles. This would also let you use shelf 8-3/4 (if 30 spline) a or 67-70 b body length axles if you set the rear axle width to them. If it’s 35 spline, you’re probably looking at something else there. And of course you’ll need different brake backing plates and brake drums or a disc brake kit that bolts up to the new housing ends. As well as New U bolts and spring mounting plates, and maybe a different drive line yoke (the 70 is easily identified by the 3 inch wide yoke with 1-1/4 u joint caps, I’ve been dismantling a lot of these lately, I should know!). And the main reason you need to know the exact year and number series (D,W,or B200 or 300 for early, D,W, or B 250 or 350 for pare) is because the earlier ones can have all sorts of different spline counts, which means that you’d probably also need to change the diff carrier/locker. It’s a long way from a direct bolt in no matter what.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
What will it matter when the 7 1/4 breaks?
Click to expand...

Exactly. What people forget when they try to make the argument about a bigger, heavier rear end is this.....The larger diameter the ring gear, the more leverage the pinion has to turn it, regardless of ratio. That's always lost in the discussion. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between a 7 1/4 and a Dana 60, all things being equal.
 
Did you get this, or are you still looking?
If it were mine, first thing i would do is pull the rear cover off. Looking inside, you can tell by the ring gear size if it is a 60,70,80 or whatever. Also can find out if it has a sure grip, and gear ratio. Then you can make an educated decision or how, or whether, to procede.
It is probably very heavy, even compared to oem mopar dana 60s, because of thicker axle tubes used with the floater axles.
To get it to a usable condition under your duster, figure it will have to be narrowed, car axle ends welded on, custom axles purchased, and that assumes you are happy with the gear ratio you find, and whether or not its a suregrip.
If you can do that work, or can find someone local to you that can....head on!
Edit: it may also be a dana 61, uses the same ring gear size as a 60, but completely different gear spacing and ratios. 61 gears are not available in aftermarket to my knowledge .
 
Even if it is a SG. I'll bet it has a bastard spline count. But you can buy the internal gears from Doctor Diff.
 
If it came out of a dodge, and it is a 60 HD, it’ll Most likely have 30 spline axle shafts. Very rarely do they have 35 spline shafts. Pull the 8 axle retaining bolts, and slide the axle out.
 
I got some photoa of the area you said. I hope this helps

RustyRatRod said:
It's marked what it is. Look at the webbing where the tube attaches to the passenger's side in the FRONT. It's marked 60, 70 or "whatever" it is "somewhere" in that area.
Click to expand...

FBCBE8FB-02DE-4915-BAB5-E0657E83DF23.jpeg


BB15E4A8-EBA5-4E6C-8078-87A5482A7D93.jpeg
 
mopardude318 said:
If it came out of a dodge, and it is a 60 HD, it’ll Most likely have 30 spline axle shafts. Very rarely do they have 35 spline shafts. Pull the 8 axle retaining bolts, and slide the axle out.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. I have a Dana 70U under my rat truck that came from a 93 D350.
 
Full video of the rear end with detail.


Finally got the long 4K video uploaded just now. I just put the cover back on so I'm going to flip it over and search more for numbers.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
If you really want use that, prepare for a LOT of work. What ratio is it and year model is it out of? Identify what you have and what ratio it is first. That looks those the standard HD 8 on 6-1/2 truck pattern. Get a picture of the spring pads and the yoke for us. It looks to be a single rear wheel (not dually) axle, but those can be found in Dana 70 versions. If it is a single wheel 70, it will bring a nice chunk of change from someone over on the first Gen Cummins forum. And it will be way too big for practicality what with the 10-3/4 ring gear size as opposed to the 9-3/4 60. If it’s a HD 60, then it will have cast ductile steel spring pads on the axle tubes. But it will also have the same 35 spline axle shafts as the Dana 70. That may be a bonus, depending on how much power you may be planning on. But, you’re going to need to narrow it and put 8-3/4/Dana 60 passenger car housing ends on it, and aftermarket axles. This would also let you use shelf 8-3/4 (if 30 spline) a or 67-70 b body length axles if you set the rear axle width to them. If it’s 35 spline, you’re probably looking at something else there. And of course you’ll need different brake backing plates and brake drums or a disc brake kit that bolts up to the new housing ends. As well as New U bolts and spring mounting plates, and maybe a different drive line yoke (the 70 is easily identified by the 3 inch wide yoke with 1-1/4 u joint caps, I’ve been dismantling a lot of these lately, I should know!). And the main reason you need to know the exact year and number series (D,W,or B200 or 300 for early, D,W, or B 250 or 350 for pare) is because the earlier ones can have all sorts of different spline counts, which means that you’d probably also need to change the diff carrier/locker. It’s a long way from a direct bolt in no matter what.
Click to expand...
Could you look at the video I posted maybe this would clear up the identity of it?

 
RustyRatRod said:
Not necessarily. I have a Dana 70U under my rat truck that came from a 93 D350.
Click to expand...
I also have a Dana 70U that I took out of an ‘90 D250. It HAD 32 splined axles, that I threw away and went with chromoly 35 splines and a Detroit Locker. That’s for my ‘74 W200 you may read about my build in the forums hopefully soon.
 
D60HD. Definitely open diff, probably 4.10 gears. Pull an axle shaft, undo those 8 bolts on the end and it’ll come right out. Count the splines. I’m curious.
 
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