Suspension & Steering Shopping List
Thank you yet again for the information. Why so tall on the upper bumpstop, what's the first part to hit in full droop without it?
Actually the upper isn't even that tall. The factory upper bumpstop is like 1.5" tall. The poly one I use is 2", plus the 1/8" spacer, so, it's really only about 5/8" taller than stock. My car is lowered about 2" from stock, so, if anything it could be taller.
I think I mentioned this, but because my car is lowered on the factory suspension (well, factory design anyway) I had to alter the bump stops. The suspension travel on my car is almost identical to the amount of travel on a factory car- part of that is the tubular LCA, the other is the bump stops. So, the tubular LCA gets me almost 1" of travel. My lower bumpstops are 3/8" tall, compared to the stock 1-3/8", so, that's another 1". Or pretty much the entire 2" drop. Since my suspension can now go up another 2", and my torsion bars are 1.12" and don't have to twist very far to deal with high loading, the range of adjustment changes too.
So, if I left the factory upper bump stop in there at full droop my torsion bar adjusting bolts drop off the torsion bar blade, which fully unloads the torsion bars. That can be real bad when the suspension compresses again and either the adjusting bolt crashes back into the blade or shifts slightly and misses it. So I use a taller bumpstop to keep the adjusters loaded at full droop. But, I only raised the upper bump stop 5/8", so really compared to stock I probably have more down travel from ride height. The wheels don't hang down as far at full droop, but the distance from the spindle location at ride height to full droop is similar (or even a little more).
Suspension is complicated stuff, which is why you see so many lowered (or lifted) vehicles that handle and ride like absolute trash. Everything in suspension is a trade off of some kind, and every thing you change effects something else.
