Adjustable lowering blocks

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clementine

clementine

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Hello ladies and germs,
The rear wheels are not centered in the tubs and im wondering if any yous have experience with these adjustable lowering blocks. Id be killing a couple birds as the driveline is petty far into the trans. I have attached a pic of the slip yolk with cat on ground, although there isn't rear glass or gas in the car.

Thanks FABO! best ever!

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Instant reaction... those look sketchy to me.
I moved the axle back in my 62 b-body, both to get some more tire clearance at the front of the opening, and to center them better in the wheel well. I was using ss springs, so i had to get the ss front hangers, i just drilled new holes in the hangers where i wanted.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wouldn't use aluminum. Ever.
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most of them seem to be made of aluminum. I can make them though.

Edit. MANY are made from aluminum. Ill go look to see how members are moving their axle back. I also was thinking that it would give me play when aligning the car.
 
What size tire are you trying to run? If you used those lowering blocks, would you then just notch re re-drill the lower shock mount plate?

How far can you push in the trans yoke? If you were able to push it in far enough to easily install the rear u-joint, I'd bet the trans yoke is a non-issue.
 
mopowers said:
What size tire are you trying to run? If you used those lowering blocks, would you then just notch re re-drill the lower shock mount plate?

How far can you push in the trans yoke? If you were able to push it in far enough to easily install the rear u-joint, I'd bet the trans yoke is a non-issue.
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I have a 325/50/15. They clear (although I have never driven the car) but could use a 1/2" backward movement to center in wheel arch. I have seen the thread where guys are putting in a shim in front of the forward spring perch and running sliders. Mine is mini tubbed and the front of the spring is captured in the pocket that you weld into the frame for a mini tub mod. I also have sliders. I like the car lower in the back, right now I have 2" aluminum blocks. I havent checked how much forward into the trans the yolk will go, but I think you are right in that its probably a non issue.
 
I'd get the axle where you need it with them and then pull 'em and weld them as you wont need to adjust anymore. Just to make them more solid (or make some steel with the dimensions you ended up with. Do the instructions say to run them with the threaded adjuster?
 
pishta said:
I'd get the axle where you need it with them and then pull 'em and weld them as you wont need to adjust anymore. Just to make them more solid (or make some steel with the dimensions you ended up with. Do the instructions say to run them with the threaded adjuster?
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I was thinking the same thing about welding after. I have not bought them so not sure on the instructions. Maybe I can find them online, but Id weld after finding the happy place. Im just a little nervous after mini tubbing and then putting on sliders (and the car has possibly a history of a wreck....who knows?) that it will be a bear to align. The sliders are just tacked into place for now and the axle is not welded to spring perches until I get serious with a tape measure and a plumb bob.

Sounds like I should get busy with a tape measure and plumb bob first. Then make further decisions on moving axle. Any fixed points up front that arent affected by alignment are the suggested place to measure from?

Ha Ha.....always a little more to the story than started with aye?
 
Make a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate and sandwich it between the front spring hanger and the frame. That centers the axle and moves the yoke out. Then add solid lowering blocks of you need them
 
qkcuda said:
Make a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate and sandwich it between the front spring hanger and the frame. That centers the axle and moves the yoke out. Then add solid lowering blocks of you need them
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I did that "chassis stiffening kit" from US Cartool. The front of the spring runs right into the frame pocket that comes with the mini tub aspect of the kit. IE no more place to shim in front......although I could just drill another hole in that pocket. hmmmm

Good thoughts!
Thanks!
 
67dartgtgo said:
I’ve never seen anything like that. Need guys with autocross knowledge maybe? @autoxcuda ?
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we used them in our circle track cars and bounced them off walls and other cars. They took a licking.

we’d put in a little rear steer and adjust the wheelbase to the edge of the rules.
 
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lotta dirt stock cars run them, some tracks thay wanta lead one side, others thay want a lil trail in them! got a set left over on a shelf collecting dust....DWB
 
I put in a six link from QA1. Now I have to align all four...lol but the two way adjustable coil overs help with all the lowering and raising I need. pricey though
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