Torque box question

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I8NEMO

I8NEMO

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I welded in sub frame connectors years ago, car was level and on jacks. Of course, THEN I bought a rotisserie lol. Once this car is disassembled again it'll go back on the twirler for mods at the spare tire well for new valance exit exhaust route. I will be installing torque boxes too. Common sense tells me not to do the torque boxes on the rotisserie. but with frame connectors in, I'm thinking deflection would be at a minimum? Does anyone have any stiffening data or specs on post frame connector chassis? Sure would be nice to weld upright if possible.
Thanks,
Tim
 
I8NEMO said:
I welded in sub frame connectors years ago, car was level and on jacks. Of course, THEN I bought a rotisserie lol. Once this car is disassembled again it'll go back on the twirler for mods at the spare tire well for new valance exit exhaust route. I will be installing torque boxes too. Common sense tells me not to do the torque boxes on the rotisserie. but with frame connectors in, I'm thinking deflection would be at a minimum? Does anyone have any stiffening data or specs on post frame connector chassis? Sure would be nice to weld upright if possible.
Thanks,
Tim
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I like doing chassis mods like that with the car assembled and with the weight on the suspension. That's how they spend their lives anyway. Opinions vary, but that's mine and it's worked well for me. I just get the car up on stands as HIGH as possible under the axle housing in the rear and under the lower control arms in the front.
 
When I installed my USCT torque boxes, the company advised that the suspension did NOT have to be loaded (I do not have frame ties). I did mine on a bare shell on a 2 post hoist. The car is not done yet, so I am hoping!
 
I agree with Rusty. I've watched door gaps change dramatically from dead nuts on a rotisserie to WTF? down on all 4 with drive train installed. Makes sense to do it that way to me.
 
I mean if the car is a complete shell, that's one thing. You're not gonna see a whole lot of flex.....ESPECIALLY if you put braces in the door openings.....and probably very little then. There's just no weight there. So if it's a shell on a rotisserie, I say have at it, but if it's assembled, I like doing it as I outlined above. As I said though, opinions vary and people have had success doing it differently.
 
I just finished restoring my convertable. No rotisserie . 200K on the car. I put the last 100k on it and did not pamper this car .The factory door to quarter top gaps were too tight. Jack stands under control arms up front I put the rear stands under the front rear leaf spring perches and let the rear end hang to open the gap a little too wide.. I held my breath when I welded my connectors in. When I sat it down on all fours and my gap was perfect both side. Whew! Aside from that one time, I would always weld connectors with car sitting on the suspension.
 
I put my frame connectors in on leveled jack stands. I put the torque boxes in on the rotisserie. Nothing changed with the t box install... oh ya the car was a shell.

P2050026.JPG
 
Kendog 170 said:
I just finished restoring my convertable. No rotisserie . 200K on the car. I put the last 100k on it and did not pamper this car .The factory door to quarter top gaps were too tight. Jack stands under control arms up front I put the rear stands under the front rear leaf spring perches and let the rear end hang to open the gap a little too wide.. I held my breath when I welded my connectors in. When I sat it down on all fours and my gap was perfect both side. Whew! Aside from that one time, I would always weld connectors with car sitting on the suspension.
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That was pretty smart. Over the years, I'm sure they tend to flex both ends toward each other, as if to want to fold up. You reversed that and eliminated the possibility of it happening again.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I mean if the car is a complete shell, that's one thing. You're not gonna see a whole lot of flex.....ESPECIALLY if you put braces in the door openings.....and probably very little then. There's just no weight there. So if it's a shell on a rotisserie, I say have at it, but if it's assembled, I like doing it as I outlined above. As I said though, opinions vary and people have had success doing it differently.
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LJ67barracuda340 said:
I put my frame connectors in on leveled jack stands. I put the torque boxes in on the rotisserie. Nothing changed with the t box install... oh ya the car was a shell.

View attachment 1715670190
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RustyRatRod said:
I mean if the car is a complete shell, that's one thing. You're not gonna see a whole lot of flex.....ESPECIALLY if you put braces in the door openings.....and probably very little then. There's just no weight there. So if it's a shell on a rotisserie, I say have at it, but if it's assembled, I like doing it as I outlined above. As I said though, opinions vary and people have had success doing it differently.
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Car will be a complete shell, doors etc. Have not been gapped so maybe ok on rotisserie, I thought most 4 SPD cars got rear boxes, not the case with mine, no bigs.
Thanks guys!!!
 
I8NEMO said:
Car will be a complete shell, doors etc. Have not been gapped so maybe ok on rotisserie, I thought most 4 SPD cars got rear boxes, not the case with mine, no bigs.
Thanks guys!!!
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I think that would be fine on a rotisserie.
 
I8NEMO said:
Car will be a complete shell, doors etc. Have not been gapped so maybe ok on rotisserie, I thought most 4 SPD cars got rear boxes, not the case with mine, no bigs.
Thanks guys!!!
Click to expand...
I think only the hemi and maybe the 440x6 B bodies got the torque boxes. Never heard of an A body. Maybe the 68 hemi racers.
 
Yes some did. All 68 and 69 convertables have them regardless of what engine..Don't know about others.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think that would be fine on a rotisserie.
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I'll probably stay with the 340, definitely sticking with 4spd. No gears selected yet, drag radials are 390x40x17 m and h. Do you think torque boxes are overkill? This is a Notchback. It's only $250ish for all 4 boxes, and I like doing the work
 
I8NEMO said:
I'll probably stay with the 340, definitely sticking with 4spd. No gears selected yet, drag radials are 390x40x17 m and h. Do you think torque boxes are overkill? This is a Notchback. It's only $250ish for all 4 boxes, and I like doing the work
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Boxes can't hurt, so long as they are installed properly. Unless your car is rare or limited production, I don't see why not.
 
I8NEMO said:
I'll probably stay with the 340, definitely sticking with 4spd. No gears selected yet, drag radials are 390x40x17 m and h. Do you think torque boxes are overkill? This is a Notchback. It's only $250ish for all 4 boxes, and I like doing the work
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I don't think any of the chassis stiffening devices are overkill. Even for an everyday driver. Anything that strengthens the chassis is good. Now, when you get to roll bars and cages, you have to look at how much track time VS street time. You don't wanna be climbing over bars everyday goin to get groceries.
 
Due to the way things were done back then some of these cars 340's/383's only 2 or 4 or none! Not sure if they slacked on the 440 '69 cuda's which were all console automatics.
 
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