1965 Dodge Dart Door Locks...

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moucri

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I need to replace the door locks in my 1965 Dodge Dart, but am not able to find the parts for that year car. I am however able to find door locks for 1966 and newer...does anyone know if those locks would work in a '65?

Thanks.
 
I've been dealing with the door locks myself for the last few days.
On the driver's side, it has always been fidgety - have to wiggle the key to get it to turn.
A few days ago, the key wouldn't go in at all. Took it to a locksmith, and they replaced the little pins with slightly larger ones. They had worn the slots over the years and were sliding crooked. Works better now, but I still have to jiggle it a little to get the key to turn to the right.
Went to the junkyard and got new locks off an old truck. They looked almost the same, but didn't fit. I'd have to cut the hole in the door and I'm not going to do that!

If you're only having problems with the driver's side lock, you can swap it out with the passenger side - that's what I'm going to do.

What kind of problem are you having?
 
Door locks up through 65 (and A100 through 69) used the same style locks. If you look at the door lock opening, it's not round like the 66 and up. As mentioned the doors can be modified to take the later locks. Door locks are not interchangeable from side to side.
 
Door locks are not interchangeable from side to side.
Couldn't a locksmith remove the retaining thingy and turn the arm around?
He suggested the swap, so I assumed it can be done.

lock light.jpg
 
Couldn't a locksmith remove the retaining thingy and turn the arm around?
He suggested the swap, so I assumed it can be done.

Might be possible although I've been told they are unique to each side with different part numbers. Give it a try and let us know,
 
Might be possible although I've been told they are unique to each side with different part numbers. Give it a try and let us know,
I'll take it to the locksmith in the morning and see what he says.
It could have been the younger guy that mentioned it, so I'll be sure and ask "the old man".
Don't want to remove the passenger side door panel if they can't be swapped out.
I'll report back with more details... :salut:
 
Couldn't a locksmith remove the retaining thingy and turn the arm around?
He suggested the swap, so I assumed it can be done.

I am pretty sure the door locks are not interchangeable. Only way to remove the lock paul would be to remove the factory staking,the stops on the back are not centered so changing the paul would not work.The cylinder plug only comes out the front face which requires removing the face cap and replacing it with an after market one. Sorry ,the "paul" is the arm on the back.I'm using locksmith terminology.Best thing would be to take it into a locksmith,of course I would say that because I am one.:-D I will try to find out for sure in case you don't get an answer.8)
 
What kind of problem are you having?

All interesting info, thanks for the replies.

My problem (similar to yours RonnyB): I've always had trouble getting the key to turn in the lock (both drivers and passengers side, actually). A few days ago the key became stuck in one of the locks. I was able to get it out, but now it doesn't work in that lock at all and the cylinder (probably not the name for it, mechanism maybe) seems loose. I'm afraid the same will happen to the other side and thought that replacing with new locks would be the best thing to do. Sounds like I might need to go to a locksmith...
 
Stopped by the locksmith this morning. The old man wasn't there, but what the other two locksmiths said made sense because of what DRENO said.
The biggest problem seems to be the fastener that holds the lever (pawl) to the lock. As you can see in the picture, it's held on with a rivet type of connection. It would have to be ground off and "something would have to be made" to hold the pawl on the lock.
Only way to remove the lock paul would be to remove the factory staking, the stops on the back are not centered so changing the paul would not work.
I don't understand this part, because everything I see on the housing is symmetrical, left to right. Is this on the inside?

I would have learned a lot more if the old man was there, but for now I'm just going to accept that they can't be swapped and put the lock and door panel back on. Going back to jiggling the key. :(

It's too bad MoPar didn't use one lock with a swappable pawl - it would have been simpler and cheaper. :dontknow:

Oh well, on to the next little project...
 
The clock position of the crank arm is the difference between left and right locks.

1965-1966 was the changeover for locks. Pre-65 were the same (way back to 50's) and 66-up all interchange. Unfortunately the early locks are harder to find. Also the key blanks changed at the same time.
 
Not everyone is the "do it yorselfer" when it comes to those tiny springs and such.
If your willing to try, there is a guy parting some early Chrysler products (furys and newports). So rather than deal with worn out door/ignition keys and locks, grab a trunk lock and key. Build you door and ignition lock cylinders to that key which has much less wear. Any locksmith should be able to help.
 
Stopped by the locksmith this morning. The old man wasn't there, but what the other two locksmiths said made sense because of what DRENO said.
The biggest problem seems to be the fastener that holds the lever (pawl) to the lock. As you can see in the picture, it's held on with a rivet type of connection. It would have to be ground off and "something would have to be made" to hold the pawl on the lock.I don't understand this part, because everything I see on the housing is symmetrical, left to right. Is this on the inside?

I would have learned a lot more if the old man was there, but for now I'm just going to accept that they can't be swapped and put the lock and door panel back on. Going back to jiggling the key. :(

It's too bad MoPar didn't use one lock with a swappable pawl - it would have been simpler and cheaper. :dontknow:

Oh well, on to the next little project...


I will try tomorrow to get you a part number you can give to your locksmith to order.I am really busy or I would have had an answer today,but i did phone and the local supplier said they have door locks for '65 Chrysler products.I will try to keep you posted.
 
Not everyone is the "do it yorselfer" when it comes to those tiny springs and such.
If your willing to try, there is a guy parting some early Chrysler products (furys and newports). So rather than deal with worn out door/ignition keys and locks, grab a trunk lock and key. Build you door and ignition lock cylinders to that key which has much less wear. Any locksmith should be able to help.

Yes, by all means replace your cylinders.Once they are worn they will be trouble from then on.A locksmith should be able to decode your key and cut a new back to factory specs and key the new cylinders accordingly.New cylinders are so cheap it's not worth getting used ones. I buy the cylinders for about $16.00.
 
All interesting info, thanks for the replies.

My problem (similar to yours RonnyB): I've always had trouble getting the key to turn in the lock (both drivers and passengers side, actually). A few days ago the key became stuck in one of the locks. I was able to get it out, but now it doesn't work in that lock at all and the cylinder (probably not the name for it, mechanism maybe) seems loose. I'm afraid the same will happen to the other side and thought that replacing with new locks would be the best thing to do. Sounds like I might need to go to a locksmith...

These cylinders were made of white metal and did not stand up too well.They wore relatively quick.Once the tumbler holes get worn you have nothing but problems,specially if your key has some high cuts in it.New locks are the answer and they are very reasonably priced.
 
They're not a simple interchange. I've know a couple of guys who have recut the hole in their doors to use the later lock cylinder but that's more work than I'd want to do.
Mark
 
Dreno, I've looked for those '65 and older car lock cylinders in the past (although not recently) and was told that they were discontinued. Who do know that supplies them??
Thanks, Mark
 
I am bringing this thread back from the dead. I am doing new interior door panels on my 64 Dart GT, Since I am doing new exterior door handles, I want to also replace the ratty looking lock cylinders. But, I am forced to have them rebuilt by a locksmith to make them look new again. Why because nobody seems to have any. It would be way easier to buy a set.
 
I still don't know anyone with new sets.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am bringing this thread back from the dead. I am doing new interior door panels on my 64 Dart GT, Since I am doing new exterior door handles, I want to also replace the ratty looking lock cylinders. But, I am forced to have them rebuilt by a locksmith to make them look new again. Why because nobody seems to have any. It would be way easier to buy a set.
Have you tried a wanted thread?
 
Totally different. You'd have to cut a different shape hole in the door skin to swap them. Also, they look different. The '66-up cylinders sit pretty flat against the metal, whereas the '65 and older stick out quite a bit. They take different key blanks too. The '66 and newer lock cylinders are the same right and left. You just swap over the tail link. The '65 and older have specific right and left hand cylinders. The tail link is riveted on.
 
Have you tried a wanted thread?
I have not. I do have a local locksmith that can make them look new again. It is one of those things that make a simple interior door project take a little longer to complete. I will have the doors apart and I will have to wait on the locksmith to finish before putting it back together again.
 
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