340 break in question

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Yep, you can stop right there, tells us all we need to know. As a mechanical designer, I work with actual engineers daily. So I know how you all think. Which is normally not correct :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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you're talking architects that are not correct , not engineers , engineers solve the problems brought about by designers and architects
 
Nat! Behind every engineer is a mechanical fitter showing them how to actually get it to work!
 
Well, got through cam break in, no fuel leaks this time but have a good oil leak thought it was the 1085 NAPA oil filter but it's tight, with engine at 3k it's a good stream. Hard to see at the time but between oil filter and oil pan. Checked pan bolts, they're good. Valve cover seeped a little, don't see any oil trail from that high on the motor. Bob was pretty sure there's no passages low near the filter. Im perplexed, gonna replace filter for good measure and keep hunting. Im open for suggestions y'all
 
Nat! Behind every engineer is a mechanical fitter showing them how to actually get it to work!
yeah had a bunch of them telling me how to run my company , funny thing is i told them good you open your own company they did a 6 months later went bankrupt
 
Well, got through cam break in, no fuel leaks this time but have a good oil leak thought it was the 1085 NAPA oil filter but it's tight, with engine at 3k it's a good stream. Hard to see at the time but between oil filter and oil pan. Checked pan bolts, they're good. Valve cover seeped a little, don't see any oil trail from that high on the motor. Bob was pretty sure there's no passages low near the filter. Im perplexed, gonna replace filter for good measure and keep hunting. Im open for suggestions y'all
Do you have the gasket on the filter? I have seen that get missed a time or two.
 
You raise the rpms during break in to ASSURE the lifters rotate during the break in period . Below 2000 rpms a lifter may not rotate , and that will flatten a cam lobe.
my 02
 
#1 piston at TDC on compression stroke and rotor pointing to #! plug. usually starts right up.. as soon as its running you fine tune the timing...
 
#1 piston at TDC on compression stroke and rotor pointing to #! plug. usually starts right up.. as soon as its running you fine tune the timing...
This is what I do but I dont set it at TDC. I set the balancer to whatever I want the timing to be during break in. I like 30 degrees. Then point the rotor to #1, lock it down, fill the bowls with fuel and let er rip.
 
Murphy's law... If it can go wrong, it will...

Agreed, had the oil filter plate seal leaking the whole time. Upgrading to Cantons 0 ring style

That's why you have to check as much as possible before starting it the first time... Then double and triple check before you start it so you don't have to shut it down...

I helped a friend start a fresh rebuild and we found out one of the trans lines were leaking like a sieve and had to shut it down and fix the line... Then topped off the coolant and trans fluid and restarted it... Then the carb bowl was flooding over on a 'fresh rebuild carb'... There's always something to go wrong that you have to react to during first start and break in.... Very rarely do things go smoothly on the first try....
 
Man, plate, seal, everything looks good. Was hoping for something obvious causing the leak ( river at 3k rpm) . I'm leaning towards the Canton billet plate. I assume more return holes take some pressure off seal. Hoping 0 ring beats this set up Thoughts?

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Man, plate, seal, everything looks good. Was hoping for something obvious causing the leak ( river at 3k rpm) . I'm leaning towards the Canton billet plate. I assume more return holes take some pressure off seal. Hoping 0 ring beats this set up Thoughts?

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U don’t use the little gasket. Kim
 
Ive seen 90 lb, in another blog a guy torqued it to 250 and still leaked. I reached out to Canton to see if they have a torque spec for their billet plate
 
there was a thin gasket and a cork gasket in the aftermarket kits...and you can drill more holes in the plate you have
 
there was a thin gasket and a cork gasket in the aftermarket kits...and you can drill more holes in the plate you have
Ive seen those drawings that include the cork gasket for the 90 degree angle adapter. The factory plate application shows only the steel washer between nipple and plate. I thought about drilling more holes and keeping it, but I like the idea of an o ring so going with the billet plate.
Thanks
Tim
 
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The Canton plate is a good piece. O-ring never leaked on me. Torque bolt to 30 ft lbs.
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