Questions on wiring Ignition/ supplying power to the fuse box

Light switch:
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Switch terminal P.............wire .........L6-18Y is the park lights

switch terminal D is the yellow switch terminal for the dome lamps

switch terminal H feeds off to the dimmer switch and to the headlamps

switch terminal R is power to the tail and on later models, marker lamps. You can move the park lamps wire to this terminal if you want the park lamps to stay on with headlights

switch terminal B1, wire L1-16BK is the power into the switch ONLY for the headlamps, and originally came direct from the splice in the black ammeter wire. This wire WAS NOT fused originally

switch terminal B2 is fused and powers tail, park, and dimmer controlled dash lamps
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If you are using a new harness, some of that should go through the new fuse panel in the new harness. And it would be a good idea to feed it from a relay to relieve the ignition switch

68 ignition switch:

Top left wire J1-12R. This is the main power INTO the switch. Originally this came from the big welded splice in the black ammeter wire under the dash. NOT FUSED!!

Middle left, J2-16DBL. This is IGN1 or "ignition run." It GOES DEAD during start, and supplies underhood ignition, voltage regulator and originally some smog doo dads on some models It also powers the cluster, such as gauges and brake warning lamp

Bottom........J3-14BR. Brown, this is IGN2 and feeds the coil power during start because as noted above, IGN1 goes dead during start. This is NOT connected to the solenoid and is a separate circuit

Middle right..........S2-18Y----this wire goes out through the bulkhead to one of the bottom two terminals on the starter relay. This is the START wire and activates the relay if the remaining relay terminal is grounded through the neutral safety switch

Bottom right........Q2-12BK. This is powered by the key in either ACC or "RUN." This feeds the ACC buss in the fuse panel









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So my main power into the switch is now from the new fuse block under the ign. wire. This has now broken the big welded splice as the fuse block connects to the alternator. I can now use the fuse block to power a lot of the accessories that were on the circuit, but at that point would the switch need power to that circuit anymore? The headlamps are already on the new circuit.

I will digest the rest of the information your provided, im sure i will have more questions, but this is a huge help already.

Thanks,