New Dana 60 Help please

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RamCharger TEXAS said:
He will haggle for it what would you think would be a good number on the high and low end ? He'll meet me in the middle. Could you give me an example of a good slip yoke picture so I can take a photo of what I have (my transmission is a 230 3 Speed manual)
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Is the 230 the fully synchronized 3 speed? If so I believe it uses the same yoke as the 833 and the 727. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.
Pricewise $25 to $75 for a driveshaft that needs cut to fit. I would think.
 
I’m not sure what your ultimate goal is here. You’re surely not planning to run that 3-speed behind that 440 are you?
 
Yea, swap that out for a 4 speed! Need the trans, bell housing and shift linkage. All pretty easy to obtain
 
Jadaharabi said:
Is the 230 the fully synchronized 3 speed? If so I believe it uses the same yoke as the 833 and the 727. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.
Pricewise $25 to $75 for a driveshaft that needs cut to fit. I would think.
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How can I check to see if it's a fully synchronized 230? I'll see if he'll bite with 25 haha fingers crossed.

Does anyone know if the yoke is the same as 727? Or 833
 
mcodecuda said:
I’m not sure what your ultimate goal is here. You’re surely not planning to run that 3-speed behind that 440 are you?
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440 is the goal but if I can get a 340 or 383 cheaper and sooner going for it. could the 3 speed not handle moderate driving with a V8?
 
RamCharger TEXAS said:
How can I check to see if it's a fully synchronized 230? I'll see if he'll bite with 25 haha fingers crossed.
Does anyone know if the yoke is the same as 727? Or 833
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A fully synchronized 3-speed has a synchronizer on all the forward gears. Therefore you can pull it into low while you're still rolling. An unsynchronized low gear would grind if you try to pull it into first gear while it's rolling.
 
RamCharger TEXAS said:
440 is the goal but if I can get a 340 or 383 cheaper and sooner going for it. could the 3 speed not handle moderate driving with a V8?
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The reason I asked is that you stated earlier that you were going to race the heck out of it and now it’s moderate driving. If it was mine, and this is from someone who has owed a big block A-body, I would go with a 360 automatic and a 8-3/4. This would be your cheapest option but in the end it’s your decision.
 
mcodecuda said:
The reason I asked is that you stated earlier that you were going to race the heck out of it and now it’s moderate driving. If it was mine, and this is from someone who has owed a big block A-body, I would go with a 360 automatic and a 8-3/4. This would be your cheapest option but in the end it’s your decision.
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Looking at prices I did kinda calm down on racing don't know if all the effort tracking down all this stuff and building it just to race it and break it would be the best since I wanna save not burn money. Thanks for the tip!
 
There is a set of 35 spline Dana axles with green bearing for sale on the site.
 
I didn't remember the length, I just remembered some for sale.
 
mcodecuda said:
The reason I asked is that you stated earlier that you were going to race the heck out of it and now it’s moderate driving. If it was mine, and this is from someone who has owed a big block A-body, I would go with a 360 automatic and a 8-3/4. This would be your cheapest option but in the end it’s your decision.
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Wouldn't I have to get an automatic steering shifter too?
 
Jadaharabi said:
A fully synchronized 3-speed has a synchronizer on all the forward gears. Therefore you can pull it into low while you're still rolling. An unsynchronized low gear would grind if you try to pull it into first gear while it's rolling.
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It grinds when it's put into low heat while rolling. But my dad has shifted it into low gear anyways while rolling.what does that mean? Since it's unsycned what should I do to make th Dana 60 work with my tranny. I want to use the tranny I have for now.
 
Just make sure the slip yoke on the new driveshaft will fit the 3 speed before you cut it to fit the dana.
 
niceolddart said:
By the time you set this rear up to fit your Duster, with the time & money you will spend, it will be cheaper to buy a brand new unit, ready to bolt in Dana 60 OR 8 3/4" rear with what ratio you want & a Sure Grip unit right from Strange Engineering or Moser. I did. With Wilwood disc brakes & all. It was under $2000 delivered. It would probably be worth it for you in the long run.
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Demonracer said:
I didn't remember the length, I just remembered some for sale.
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Demonracer said:
There is a set of 35 spline Dana axles with green bearing for sale on the site.
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Found these on Facebook are these sketchy or should I pass on them?

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