Need pro advice Project X Block build Long term project.

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BooW

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Hi guys come across a unused X block and some other parts here in Sweden, the only thing that has been done to it bored to std 340 and prepared for boost, the block has a O ring on top of the deck. 4 bolt mains ARP studs.

I have used good (truck) forged crank that i´m planning to use and new rods crs 6123 arp

This engine or project what you will call it, will be a insurance for my other 340 motor that are in my car today 69 GTS with mild 340 approx 400hp.

This spring the 8 3/4 gets a 4:10 and tf727 gets overhaul will be prepared for the new motor.
converter are stock around 2700 brakestall.

So now to fun part, what your opinion for real durable 450-500hp gladly streetable:lol:
i´m think approx 7000-8000 dollars total with machining and maybe build cost to give idea, have to consider the swedish crones.

any good suggestions, feel free :D

Best regards.
Rob

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Trick flow heads
a .580-.620 lift 255-260@.050 solid flat tappet cam to use those heads
1 3/4-1 7/8 headers
Victor 340 with spacer and a good 750 carburetor would do around 500hp.

To use your converter n all that, idk.lol dial the hp expectation aka cam back some for that.
 
If you aren’t going to boost it, you can either deck the O ring grooves out and use an MLS gasket. Much less crap to deal with that O rings and copper gaskets.

The other option is to clean the grooves out as clear as you can and fill the grooves with JB Weld or similar and then file it flat. I’ve done that in a pinch and at 15:1 and I had no issues with MLS gaskets.

Some guys put a copper wire in the groove and machine it off. I’ve seen it work. Just not my favorite way to do it.
 
Trick flow heads
a .580-.620 lift 255-260@.050 solid flat tappet cam to use those heads
1 3/4-1 7/8 headers
Victor 340 with spacer and a good 750 carburetor would do around 500hp.

To use your converter n all that, idk.lol dial the hp expectation aka cam back some for that.

Hi thx for your input, Hmm seems good for the high winding power, is it any oil modifications need to been done the the block i´m thinking that cam going to min 7000rpm, that you said, maybe backdown a cam a bit. :D
 
If you aren’t going to boost it, you can either deck the O ring grooves out and use an MLS gasket. Much less crap to deal with that O rings and copper gaskets.

The other option is to clean the grooves out as clear as you can and fill the grooves with JB Weld or similar and then file it flat. I’ve done that in a pinch and at 15:1 and I had no issues with MLS gaskets.

Some guys put a copper wire in the groove and machine it off. I’ve seen it work. Just not my favorite way to do it.

Thx for input, didnt know that. good point there, this engine will be long term project, i´m seeking for the best knowledge out there.

take care
 
Thx for input, didnt know that. good point there, this engine will be long term project, i´m seeking for the best knowledge out there.

take care
Depends on how its ground. Sure it will take you into 7000 rpm...but it will make real good power at 4000 too.
450-500hp with a 3.31 stroke will need some cam.
Good luck and keep us posted ad to how you eventually get to your goal.
 
Easy to make that HP number in a streetable combo. Those blocks are 40-50 lbs heavier than a stock block. It is a very good block though.
 
I have run a 9.5 inch PTC converter that stalls around 3500 on the street for years. Todays converters are not like the old high stall converters that were unpleasant on the street.
 
in future i will order a custom converter :D,
how is it to run a solid roller on the street, just about the maintence, i´m looking towards a bigger hydralic flat tappet.. ? hmm... just for the simplicity.
 
Go solid. Need to check adjustment once, maybe twice a year. A hydraulic flat tappet won’t like much over 6000 rpm and you’ll need revs to make that power number.
 
If you aren’t going to boost it, you can either deck the O ring grooves out and use an MLS gasket. Much less crap to deal with that O rings and copper gaskets.

The other option is to clean the grooves out as clear as you can and fill the grooves with JB Weld or similar and then file it flat. I’ve done that in a pinch and at 15:1 and I had no issues with MLS gaskets.

Some guys put a copper wire in the groove and machine it off. I’ve seen it work. Just not my favorite way to do it.
Actually...you don't have to cut them out OR fill them in. Just use a good MLS gasket, with a bore real close to what the block ends up at. Done it many times, works perfectly. I was told this by a guy who used to work for Keith Black Engines years ago.
 
Actually...you don't have to cut them out OR fill them in. Just use a good MLS gasket, with a bore real close to what the block ends up at. Done it many times, works perfectly. I was told this by a guy who used to work for Keith Black Engines years ago.


Heard that and never tried it. I do know last summer we had issues with MLS head gasket leaks and copper wire in the grooves that was milled off.
 
Heard that and never tried it. I do know last summer we had issues with MLS head gasket leaks and copper wire in the grooves that was milled off.
Yes, it's better to leave them open. I know it sounds impossible, but it's worked so far. Just did it recently on a sb with an R3 block, just used a 4.100 bore gasket on the 4.070 bore block and no problems.
 
Yes, it's better to leave them open. I know it sounds impossible, but it's worked so far. Just did it recently on a sb with an R3 block, just used a 4.100 bore gasket on the 4.070 bore block and no problems.

Why the grooves on the piston top of you avatar?
 
Why the grooves on the piston top of you avatar?
Cp (and others) do it to help promote mixture motion...supposed to help with E85 but we've (and Cp) have found more power on gas too! It's a 100.00 option, and we use it when the customer can afford the upgrade.
 
My R1 block has grooves for o rings. It's bore is 4.090" and I run a 1008 Fel Pro and have never had any issues. The only place I filled them was on opposite corners of the block the groove was very close to a coolant hole. A little Devcon for peace of mind.
 
Hi , thx for all the input and answers good to know that i probably can leave the grooves :D

What about oil control for maybe 7000 rpm.

Whats the right way to go with?

windage tray, HV oil pump , maybe better pan with baffles and larger tube for the pickup?.

Take care
 
Hi , thx for all the input and answers good to know that i probably can leave the grooves :D

What about oil control for maybe 7000 rpm.

Whats the right way to go with?

windage tray, HV oil pump , maybe better pan with baffles and larger tube for the pickup?.

Take care


Crank scraper, windage tray and the biggest inlet to the oil pump you can find.
 
Hi , thx for all the input and answers good to know that i probably can leave the grooves :D

What about oil control for maybe 7000 rpm.

Whats the right way to go with?

windage tray, HV oil pump , maybe better pan with baffles and larger tube for the pickup?.

Take care
I am sure there are some members who would recommend that you bush the lifter bores and tube the lifter oil passages. I am not your guy to talk to about this maybe someone will chime in that has done this that can provide the specifics.
Keep posting your progress - good stuff here.
Good luck with your build.
Jim K
 
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