727 Installed - No Movement in Gears

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Travis Mayfield

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Hello! As the title states, the car doesn’t move or react when put into gear. 1968 Dart, 1975 727. I installed a trans-go shift kit before installing the transmission, so there’s always the possibility that I screwed something up there... it was my first time. Here’s some info:

- B&M shifter shifts the transmission into each gear as it should, confirmed by crawling under the car and watching while someone went through the gears. Each has a positive click.

- TC was seated properly, had to be pulled forward a small amount to mate up to the flex plate.

- With the rear of the car jacked up, the wheels spin gently when in gear, but very light brake pressure stops them. Applying any amount of throttle (up to 3k RPM) with light brake pressure will not spin the rear wheels. From what I read this seems normal? However, the wheels also spin gently FORWARD when in reverse, same as in other gears... if that matters?

- I installed a +2 quart deep pan, so I figure the transmission should take somewhere between 10-12+ quarts total. One problem I see is, I added 8 quarts (1 into the TC before installation, then 7 more once the trans was installed), and the dipstick shows full. I know it shouldn’t be full with 8 quarts. I have let it idle in each gear, so the TC should be filling and requiring more fluid, but the level is not going down. I’m checking the fluid level in neutral while idling and hot.

My next plan is to remove one of the trans cooler hoses (I went with stainless braided with 6AN fittings) from the trans cooler to see if fluid is pumping while running in neutral.

Should I add more fluid? I accidentally dumped about a quart out when I changed dipsticks, because I wasn’t sure if my new dipstick was reading correctly, so there are about 7 quarts in it now. That’s up to 5 quarts “low”, but I figure it should still do SOMETHING with 7 quarts...

Thoughts? Thank you!
 
IIRC the TC holds a lot of fluid. Like 4 quarts?

The factory service manual should say.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IIRC the TC holds a lot of fluid. Like 4 quarts?

The factory service manual should say.
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Not sure about the factory TC, I’m using a 9.5” FTI 3500 stall TC. But either way, it should hold a fair amount. My concern is that the fluid seems to be staying in the pan, rather than filling the TC, but that’s just a guess for now.
 
Sounds like nothing is circulating in the trans.....

front band is for 2nd gear....rear for reverse....

wheels should be turning if off ground even in neutral...
 
Barely loosen neutral safety switch. Start the engine. Remove the neutral safety switch. Add fluid until it runs out the neutral safety switch hole. Test gear engagement. Report back.
 
70aarcuda said:
Sounds like nothing is circulating in the trans.....

front band is for 2nd gear....rear for reverse....

wheels should be turning if off ground even in neutral...
Click to expand...

Update: You are correct. I just unhooked the rear (return) line on the transmission and ran the car in park, neutral, and in the forward gears just for fun, no fluid coming out whatsoever. I did get a dribble of fluid from the hose when I first unhooked it though. Question: would the fluid not be pumping from the return line if the level was too low, or should it pump fluid at any level?

CudaFactHackJob said:
Barely loosen neutral safety switch. Start the engine. Remove the neutral safety switch. Add fluid until it runs out the neutral safety switch hole. Test gear engagement. Report back.
Click to expand...

This will be my first step tomorrow, headers are too hot to loosen the NSS today.

Thank you for the replies so far!
 
If your trans had an oil light like a motor, it would be ON. Nothing is being lubed; no bushings and no thrust washers, it's frying everything. The pump is sucking air.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
If your trans had an oil light like a motor, it would be ON. Nothing is being lubed; no bushings and no thrust washers, it's frying everything. The pump is sucking air.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Per my previous post, I have already confirmed that no fluid is being pumped = nothing is being lubed. I shut it off right after the test, hopefully nothing is damaged yet. My question is, is this most likely a larger problem, or simply low on fluid? SHOULD it still be pumping fluid with only 7 quarts in it? As previously mentioned, I have a deep +2 qt pan, and I also have a filter extender. I do not want to OVER fill the trans and cause damage that way.
 
drop the pan and look to see if you did not hit the manual valve in the slot. just did a transgo kit in sb 727 and when you have to " hold this ,tighten this and align this", 1 thing may not get done correctly. happens more than people want to admit. i always look 3-4 times to make sure the lever is in the manual valve.
 
You don't get it. If it was a motor, would you rather overfill it or operate it DRY. Because your pump is sucking AIR. and it is already damaged. What happens when a motor has NO OIL? Your trans lube system has NO OIL.
 
rbkt65 said:
drop the pan and look to see if you did not hit the manual valve in the slot. just did a transgo kit in sb 727 and when you have to " hold this ,tighten this and align this", 1 thing may not get done correctly. happens more than people want to admit. i always look 3-4 times to make sure the lever is in the manual valve.
Click to expand...

oldkimmer said:
Seems like the manual valve is not hooked up. Kim
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I’m fairly certain that I got the manual valve in the slot, because it took me a couple tries so I remember doing it (that doesn’t mean I didn’t miss something else tough). But I think my best course of action at this point is to pull the pan anyways and have a look-see. But, even if the manual valve was not in place, it would be pumping oil right?
 
I just re-read your first post and 8 quarts of fluid is not enough especially with a deep pan. Did you install the extension for the filter and torque the valve body bolts because you could be sucking air. I agree that you should drop the pan and look for debris. If you don’t find anything put it back together and put the correct amount of fluid in it. My guess is that with the deep pan and the 9-1/2” converter it should take about the same amount of fluid as a stock transmission takes.
 
mcodecuda said:
I just re-read your first post and 8 quarts of fluid is not enough especially with a deep pan. Did you install the extension for the filter and torque the valve body bolts because you could be sucking air. I agree that you should drop the pan and look for debris. If you don’t find anything put it back together and put the correct amount of fluid in it. My guess is that with the deep pan and the 9-1/2” converter it should take about the same amount of fluid as a stock transmission takes.
Click to expand...
I did install the filter extension, did not torque valve body bolts, just tightened them comfortably tight. I’ll check that too. Will report back after pan is dropped!

oldkimmer said:
Did u happen to air check it b4 u installed the valve body?
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I did not, should have though...
 
mcodecuda said:
...and torque the valve body bolts because you could be sucking air.
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Update: Well, I'm not too proud to admit when I screwed something up! This is the first thing I saw when I dropped the pan... hand-tight VB bolts! Mcodecuda guessed it.
It was pumping at least a little fluid, since the return line would drain fluid every time I removed it, so hopefully I didn't completely ruin anything while running my previous tests.
IMG_4045.jpg

Torqued the VB bolts down, buttoned it up and added fluid - she now drives beautifully, as long as I don't want to go in reverse. That's right, no reverse. I did a few searches on what it could be, so here are some answers to common questions in this situation:
- I have 3rd gear. (and 1st and 2nd)
- Car doesn't try to move when in neutral.
- I did GLANCE at the servos while I had the pan off, the rear servo was not popped out or anything.

I probably should have looked at everything else closer while I had the pan off, I was just so excited that I found the loose VB bolts.

I suppose I will drop the pan again, and inspect the servo, making sure its not jammed or the seal torn. Luckily I have a nice clean enclosed drain pan so I am capturing and reusing my ATF. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
 
Front clutch and rear band activate for reverse.
Since you have all 3 forward gears you can eliminate front clutch from possibilities. I'd be looking at rear band, adjustment, and servo.
 
EDIT: I think I have the rear servo installed incorrectly. I will remove and reinstall it tomorrow.
 
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Now you are becoming an expert on Mopar transmissions. All of your friends will be paying you to build theirs, now. LOL
 
Demonracer said:
Now you are becoming an expert on Mopar transmissions. All of your friends will be paying you to build theirs, now. LOL
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Lol! I wouldn’t feel right taking money to screw up my friends transmissions! But this has been a fun (read: frustrating) learning experience. I’m glad I didn’t just send it to a shop!
 
You can test the rear band by driving it in low one and see if the motor slows the car down when you let off the gas.Ttake it up to 25mph in low one and let off the gas. If it freewheels, then the problem is in the rear band.
 
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