Lost reverse, need help finding it. 727

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Thanks, leads me to believe, its the converter more than anything. Fluid is clean. Filter was tight.
Should I be able to push up the piece that the spring sits against by hand for the reverse servo?
The spring above it is weak enough that I can probably get the clip off without compressing it with a tool to squeeze it.

I'd like to chime in, if I may... and I KNOW I'll offend someone here..
It's your converter. I have the same gear/tire combo as you and run 122mph at 6400 rpm in the heat. Converter is nothing special.. just a $600 TurboAction S-800 med.
I have seen this more times than I'd like to count... unless it's broke, you've got a junk converter. converter is Sooooooo inefficient, you loose all your ET in the back half cause the car don't mile-an-hour good.
PLEASE, save this scenario for the phord/shivy guys.. I beg you.
Dynamic Converters is just down the road from you. They'll treat you right, have decades worth of experience, and you'll think you added 100 more hp.
 
I'd like to chime in, if I may... and I KNOW I'll offend someone here..
It's your converter. I have the same gear/tire combo as you and run 122mph at 6400 rpm in the heat. Converter is nothing special.. just a $600 TurboAction S-800 med.
I have seen this more times than I'd like to count... unless it's broke, you've got a junk converter. converter is Sooooooo inefficient, you loose all your ET in the back half cause the car don't mile-an-hour good.
PLEASE, save this scenario for the phord/shivy guys.. I beg you.
Dynamic Converters is just down the road from you. They'll treat you right, have decades worth of experience, and you'll think you added 100 more hp.
What is the rest of your combo.
What stall is the converter you have.
Is that their 11" converter
 
What is the rest of your combo.
What stall is the converter you have.
Is that their 11" converter

No, it's classified as a 10". but Paul @ Turbo Action will tell you, it's actually a 10 1/2"
It flashes in the 4200 rpm range, but it only has about 5% loss. Yours is roughly 15% that's why your trap speed is down. just not coupled good. You could expect as much as 4 tenths and 4 mph with the right converter. seen it happen before.
My combo? 3140# Dart, 12.34 CR 360, ported procomps, W5 int, .638/.656, 255/260 .050 solid, self done 650dp, ( trying to get a 950 working now) Dougs 450 headers, 3" Exh, 904, MRVB, TA 10", 4.11's/spool, MT 295's
last pass: 11.103 @ 121.52 and an abysmal 1.6 60'. at 1625 DA
I've got a Lupo 9 1/2 in now. I'm looking forward to my next time slip.
 
Cleared it out.





The billet ones are best, and will keep that from ever happening again.
Check A&A transmissions online.
These steel Super Servo's are nice also.
Dodge A727 A518 46RH 46RE Transmission Low Reverse Super Servo Billet K029 | eBay
Trailbeast have you installed one of the super servos?
I can't seem to get the seal to slide past the retaining ring groove. Without the seal it slides right in.
I don't see how its even going to slide in with the stabilizing ring on it.
Any suggestions?
First I tried living it with transmission fluid, then I tried petolum jelly, as stated in one of the rebuild videos.
 
Trailbeast have you installed one of the super servos?
I can't seem to get the seal to slide past the retaining ring groove. Without the seal it slides right in.
I don't see how its even going to slide in with the stabilizing ring on it.
Any suggestions?
First I tried living it with transmission fluid, then I tried petolum jelly, as stated in one of the rebuild videos.

Put a hose clamp around the seal and tighten up pretty good, then stick it in the freezer for 20 min or so.
Be ready to put in in AS SOON as it comes out of the freezer.
 
Trailbeast have you installed one of the super servos?
I can't seem to get the seal to slide past the retaining ring groove. Without the seal it slides right in.
I don't see how its even going to slide in with the stabilizing ring on it.
Any suggestions?
First I tried living it with transmission fluid, then I tried petolum jelly, as stated in one of the rebuild videos.

Freezing it is a good trick. I have also used a very thin feeler gauge to fold the seal down as I push the servo in. Slide the feeler around the bore as you give it a little pressure.
 
Freezing it is a good trick. I have also used a very thin feeler gauge to fold the seal down as I push the servo in. Slide the feeler around the bore as you give it a little pressure.
Thats a good idea also. Not sure it would work with the stabilizing ring
 
My 2 cents; l stick it all the way down into the bore sideways, then start to straighten it up, all the while making sure it has gentle contact with the bottom, and maybe sometimes give it a little twist as it levels off. Then l pull it halfway out, cover the port with my thumb and try to push it in to pressure test it.
 
This ones not going in sideways
K029_web.jpg
K029_web.jpg

My 2 cents; l stick it all the way down into the bore sideways, then start to straighten it up, all the while making sure it has gentle contact with the bottom, and maybe sometimes give it a little twist as it levels off. Then l pull it halfway out, cover the port with my thumb and try to push it in to pressure test it.
 
That's how Chrysler should have made all their L/R servo pistons. On that one, I would use a trick I learned from what I found in a lot of overhaul kits. Some of them provide a green plastic circle about five inches in diameter to help roll the edge of the lip seals in. Just cut a smaller circle of plastic out of a milk carton or anti-freeze jug; about 3" in diameter and roll it around the servo bore; using gentle pressure on the piston, until it clears the groove. I used to use a feeler gauge, but it's pretty easy to slice the lip. Some pistons; like the direct clutch one; has that flange that makes it so you can't get to the seal edge. On that one the freeze method works great. I put a big rubber band over them.
 
So this is whats in the pan now after driving it up and down the driveway. A few launches, and it got parked.
Fast forward many months and the pan gasket is leaking. Car has just been sitting.
Got the chance to change the gasket and this is what I find in the pan.
Now what?

20210111_195143.jpg
 
The servo fixed the problem with reverse. And the transmission shifted well.
Maybe the reverse band is pissed it had to work with the higher pressure now ?
 
Any ideas on if it looks like clutch or band?
Doesn't look like either to me. Maybe it's just my monitor but it looks like small gravel here. Either way about it the trans needs to come out and gone through and everything, and I mean everything, needs flushed good to get that crap out or you'll have the same problem again in no time
 
Need some help.

I don't want to just put clutches in and have this happen again.
Bigblock 727. Rebuilt years ago,red alto clutches, kolene steels. all new bushings, thrust washers, both bands, cheeta manual reverse valve body, not a lot of time on it, 50 miles at most, and a few 1/4 mile passes.
Just driving in driveway and lost reverse. The servo cracked. Replaced with billit servo. Pan was clean, no clutch material. New fluid. Car sat and the pan gasket was leaking so I pulled it and found what is pictured.
Pulled trans and found one clutch plate in the front pack disintegrated, the one all the way at the bottom.

Also found the fiber washer between input and output shaft was only half there.
And the edge of the front most planetary gear the edge was hitting and wearing the metal, making metal fragment on the edge.

What would cause just the one clutch to lose the clutch material?
And would the one input to output fiber washer cause the interference and wearing of the edge of the planetary gear ?

Thanks for the help.
 
What do you mean by "disintegrated"? tiny pieces or large areas coming off in one piece? I always make sure that all the fibers in the front pack match.
 
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