No spark

-
Just my .02, I would mark the dist. pull it out, disconnect the wire @ the starter so it won't crank the engine & just turn it by hand till you get the spark issue figured out then reinstall. I hate issues on the first fire up!
 
Check cranking voltage at the battery and at the coil positive. Static voltage may lead you to believe the battery is charged, but if the battery is bad, or bad battery cables and starter, it still is not going to fire

You want at least 10-10.5 at the coil when cranking
 
67Dart273 said:
Check cranking voltage at the battery and at the coil positive. Static voltage may lead you to believe the battery is charged, but if the battery is bad, or bad battery cables and starter, it still is not going to fire

You want at least 10-10.5 at the coil when cranking
Click to expand...
Ok thanks I will check that tonight.
 
LOL You may just find that if / now that the battery is up it has spark
 
Done some testing tonight, most definitely having a battery issue. I tested the battery with the key off 12.7 key on 12.5 when cranking it dropped all the way down to 9.9. I checked the coil with the key on 10.4 when cranking it dropped down to 7.8 the lowest was even 6.7 so either my battery is bad or I have a serious draw from somewhere withing the ignition. But a new problem arises. Remember how I said last night during my test my starter quit? I have nothing at the starter now. As far as tournage goes. The key just clicks at the relay and when I cross over the relay I have nothing. But I can cross the starter with the solenoid and it cranks. Im thinking bad relay. But do relays just stop like that? I have power at the relay and at the ignition at the column just no cranking i think the relay is gone
 
Check grounds, make sure their clean and tight.
If you haven't already..
Also that you have ground strap from Engine to body/firewall.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Done some testing tonight, most definitely having a battery issue. I tested the battery with the key off 12.7 key on 12.5 when cranking it dropped all the way down to 9.9. I checked the coil with the key on 10.4 when cranking it dropped down to 7.8 the lowest was even 6.7 so either my battery is bad or I have a serious draw from somewhere withing the ignition. But a new problem arises. Remember how I said last night during my test my starter quit? I have nothing at the starter now. As far as tournage goes. The key just clicks at the relay and when I cross over the relay I have nothing. But I can cross the starter with the solenoid and it cranks. Im thinking bad relay. But do relays just stop like that? I have power at the relay and at the ignition at the column just no cranking i think the relay is gone
Click to expand...

Battery: You need to fix the battery/ cables/ connections problems first. Where are you measuring the 9.9? If at the battery either it's still not charged, or it's a small capacity or worn out. When I say "at the battery" I mean the BATTERY POSTS and not the cable clamps.

Once you get a good battery in there, you can check the meter readings "in line as they go."

Check at battery post, then the clamp, then the engine end of the cable. You can see the drop as you go. Check this under load when cranking

====================================

Relay.........you have not indicated here, if you have resolved that the relay is energizing. Could be bad relay, could be not getting power from the key, could be not getting a ground at the neutral safety switch.
 
67Dart273 said:
Battery: You need to fix the battery/ cables/ connections problems first. Where are you measuring the 9.9? If at the battery either it's still not charged, or it's a small capacity or worn out. When I say "at the battery" I mean the BATTERY POSTS and not the cable clamps.

Once you get a good battery in there, you can check the meter readings "in line as they go."

Check at battery post, then the clamp, then the engine end of the cable. You can see the drop as you go. Check this under load when cranking

====================================

Relay.........you have not indicated here, if you have resolved that the relay is energizing. Could be bad relay, could be not getting power from the key, could be not getting a ground at the neutral safety switch.
Click to expand...
I checked the battery from the post. I have it charging now I will check it again tonight. I may go buy a new battery this week and start there so I know its good. I will put the charged battery in my truck and test it for dropping volts to eliminate having to crank on my new engine anymore.
----‐--‐------‐-----------
The relay is powered I was getting 12 volts at the relay and 12 volts at the battery (before cranking) i can hear a definite click in the relay when I turn the key in park and neutral. But not in gear so the neutral safety switch is hooked up. I will check the ground. It's odd that it worked fine then just stopped in the middle of testing (if it is not grounded)
 
Mopar69gts said:
Check grounds, make sure their clean and tight.
If you haven't already..
Also that you have ground strap from Engine to body/firewall.
Click to expand...
Here is my grounds the lighting ground and the battery ground. I used all new connections and sanded the paint to bare metal.

20210120_175523.jpg


20210111_165803.jpg


20210111_165813.jpg


20210111_165752.jpg


20210103_155338.jpg
 
dartfreak75 said:
I checked the battery from the post. I have it charging now I will check it again tonight. I may go buy a new battery this week and start there so I know its good. I will put the charged battery in my truck and test it for dropping volts to eliminate having to crank on my new engine anymore.
----‐--‐------‐-----------
The relay is powered I was getting 12 volts at the relay and 12 volts at the battery (before cranking) i can hear a definite click in the relay when I turn the key in park and neutral. But not in gear so the neutral safety switch is hooked up. I will check the ground. It's odd that it worked fine then just stopped in the middle of testing (if it is not grounded)
Click to expand...

That is what I wanted to know. Now, are you saying that you can jumper the two relay terminals that is the two bare terminals and it will crank? If so, and you obviously hear the relay click, the relay is surely defective
 
GROUND

20210111_165813-jpg.jpg


These have never been more than "barely adequate." What I mean by that is that you are doing nothing wrong, it is the factory design that is crap. In other words you need a better/ larger body-to engine/ battery ground. A good way to do this is to buy a no4 starter cable, IE eyelet to eyelet cable about a foot-foot and a half long. Look at the front of the pass. side head. The same bolt holes are on the REAR of the driver's head. Bolt the cable to the rear of the head with a short bolt, and to the body a good ground point. "One such" is one of the master cylinder studs. That will give you a really good path from engine/ battery to body. The body, remember, is entirely welded. So from there to say, the tail lights, the entire body will be a good ground connection.
 
BATTERY Is this new? There are three or four possibilities:

1...Battery is "down" or discharged. Needs charged
2...Battery is low on capacity because it's old or defective. A BRAND NEW BATTERY can be defective, so keep that in mind
3....Clamps, connections, cables. Learn to "chase" voltage drop along a cable. If you have good voltage at the battery post (under load) but not at the other end of the cable, it is one of these problems. The clamp can be dirty even though it looks clean, and or loose. The cable can be corroded away internally even though the outside looks great. The eyelet end terminal can be crimped poorly, corroded, etc, or in this lovely Chineseoizationized world, the damn thing just might not have enough copper in the wire!!! It's easy (cheap jumper cables!!!) To make little tiny copper cables with GREAT BIG THICK insulation and make them look like REALLY great heavy duty cables!!
 
By the way that is a GREAT lookin engine/ bay install. Mine will never be that clean!!!
 
67Dart273 said:
That is what I wanted to know. Now, are you saying that you can jumper the two relay terminals that is the two bare terminals and it will crank? If so, and you obviously hear the relay click, the relay is surely defective
Click to expand...
67Dart273 said:
GROUND

View attachment 1715675227

These have never been more than "barely adequate." What I mean by that is that you are doing nothing wrong, it is the factory design that is crap. In other words you need a better/ larger body-to engine/ battery ground. A good way to do this is to buy a no4 starter cable, IE eyelet to eyelet cable about a foot-foot and a half long. Look at the front of the pass. side head. The same bolt holes are on the REAR of the driver's head. Bolt the cable to the rear of the head with a short bolt, and to the body a good ground point. "One such" is one of the master cylinder studs. That will give you a really good path from engine/ battery to body. The body, remember, is entirely welded. So from there to say, the tail lights, the entire body will be a good ground connection.
Click to expand...
I have the big ground going to the block the the extra split on the ground cable I just ran to the body also. I can run a bigger gauge wire to the body as well. That is a 10 gauge wire to the radiator support and 2 gauge to the block.

Screenshot_20210122-160039_Gallery.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
By the way that is a GREAT lookin engine/ bay install. Mine will never be that clean!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks I appreciate that. I have worked my butt off to try and make it look good there was only two things I wanted to look really good the engine bay and the interior! Everything else i could care less about lol

20210120_145928.jpg


20210120_145940.jpg


20210120_145949.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
That is what I wanted to know. Now, are you saying that you can jumper the two relay terminals that is the two bare terminals and it will crank? If so, and you obviously hear the relay click, the relay is surely defective
Click to expand...
No I can hear the relay click with the key. When I try and jump the two relay terminals nothing happens at all. When I jump the two terminals at the starter its cranks.
 
In that case either the large battery stud on the relay is losing power..........

(Clip your meter onto the large relay stud and to ground. Twist the key to start. Either way the stud should show "same as battery"

OR........... the wire from the relay to the solenoid is open. That would be fairly rare It happened to me on my 69RR It still had the original battery cable where the two wires are molded together at the starter. The wire had broken up inside the molding

1969-1974-mopar-positive-battery-cable-concours-correct-4.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
In that case either the large battery stud on the relay is losing power..........

(Clip your meter onto the large relay stud and to ground. Twist the key to start. Either way the stud should show "same as battery"

OR........... the wire from the relay to the solenoid is open. That would be fairly rare It happened to me on my 69RR It still had the original battery cable where the two wires are molded together at the starter. The wire had broken up inside the molding

View attachment 1715675479
Click to expand...
So you think it just needs to be taken apart and cleaned? I will check it in a min I just got home.
 
Not if what you told me is true. You say you jumper up at the relay it won't crank. That seems to indicate the solenoid wire is bad, or that the big stud on the relay is losing power. When jumpering those terminals, the relay is doing nothing, so it should crank, and you say it is not. Tell you what. When you get home, you get a multimeter and or test light ready and a jumper cable or at least a length of about no 14 or larger wire. Then PM me your phone no and we'll get on the phone

You MIGHT even have the starter relay wired wrong. Can you post a photo?
 
Last edited:
67Dart273 said:
In that case either the large battery stud on the relay is losing power..........

(Clip your meter onto the large relay stud and to ground. Twist the key to start. Either way the stud should show "same as battery"

OR........... the wire from the relay to the solenoid is open. That would be fairly rare It happened to me on my 69RR It still had the original battery cable where the two wires are molded together at the starter. The wire had broken up inside the molding

View attachment 1715675479
Click to expand...
67Dart273 said:
Not if what you told me is true. You say you jumper up at the relay it won't crank. That seems to indicate the solenoid wire is bad, or that the big stud on the relay is losing power. When jumpering those terminals, the relay is doing nothing, so it should crank, and you say it is not. Tell you what. When you get home, you get a multimeter and or test light ready and a jumper cable or at least a length of about no 14 or larger wire. Then PM me your phone no and we'll get on the phone

You MIGHT even have the starter relay wired wrong. Can you post a photo?
Click to expand...
Ok I just tested it the battery is 12.2 the post on the relay is 12.2 when I crank the key the relay clicks. The volts do not change. It is not wired wrong because it has worked this whole time and just stopped working
 
If the big post is getting juice even when cranking, and jumpering the two large terminals does not make it crank, then either that wire to the solenoid is broke or it's wired wrong

On the other hand if jumpering the two large relay posts made it crank, and the relay clicked but didn't crank, then the relay is bad.
 
67Dart273 said:
If the big post is getting juice even when cranking, and jumpering the two large terminals does not make it crank, then either that wire to the solenoid is broke or it's wired wrong

On the other hand if jumpering the two large relay posts made it crank, and the relay clicked but didn't crank, then the relay is bad.
Click to expand...
 
67Dart273 said:
If the big post is getting juice even when cranking, and jumpering the two large terminals does not make it crank, then either that wire to the solenoid is broke or it's wired wrong

On the other hand if jumpering the two large relay posts made it crank, and the relay clicked but didn't crank, then the relay is bad.
Click to expand...
I sent you my number
 
Note to self, reminder:

1...Bad wire relay to solenoid
2...ECU is not drawing current, 10.5V both sides of coil
3...Really bad voltage drop from battery to coil + / key on, 12.2---10.2
 
Del and I had a really good conversation tonight. He solved the problem with the relay. The solenoid wire has a bad connection. I will clean that and reattach it. As far as the other problems del mentioned ^^^
Im gonna clean and the bulkhead connection and see if I can find my drop. Also gonna replace the ecu and see if that helps . Here we go! Thanks Del @67Dart273 for your help I greatly appreciate it. Maybe when this thing is running I can drive it to Iowa and thank you in person! Lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top