Alternator install/Charge Wire Questions

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Alexhetti

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Hello all, I'm reaching out to ask a few things about an alternator upgrade that I'm doing to my '71 Swinger. I've decided on getting this Powermaster 95 amp unit to future-proof the car for upgrades and improving the charging system. My car has a 360 small block and is non-ac with a dual-field externally regulated alternator currently.

Powermaster 7519 Powermaster Retro Alternators | Summit Racing

When installing the new alternator, I've read that it's best to add a new charge wire with a fusible link running from ALT to the BAT terminal on the starter relay. What gauge wire/fuse link is going to be best for doing this? And will the existing wire from ALT running to the amp gauge be okay to stay connected? I'm trying to avoid causing any safety issues during this install and would prefer to not have to take out the gauge cluster. Additionally, I think that the MAD bypass method does something similar to this to bypass the bulkhead connector block. Is that basically what I will be doing, just with a thicker gauge wire?
 
You can find info here. I bought small rolls of fusible link wire. And made my own and extra's to keep in the glove box. Never had to use one yet and shouldn't
Catalog
 
When installing the new alternator, I've read that it's best to add a new charge wire with a fusible link running from ALT to the BAT terminal on the starter relay. What gauge wire/fuse link is going to be best for doing this?
The safety issue will be that if the battery shorts to ground, it will take twice as long for the fusible links to open.
see Fusible Links in Charging Systems with Ammeter
The advantage is that battery charging current no longer shares the wiring and connections through the firewall multi-connector.
How much current does the battery draw during recharging?
Well that varies. If the battery is fully charged - ZERO.
If the battery is not fully charged, then it depends on how low it is and the alternator's output voltage.
Illustrated here
And will the existing wire from ALT running to the amp gauge be okay to stay connected?
It's best to leave it connected. Otherwise the power needed to run the car has to go through a bunch of extra connections as well as through two fusible links.
 
Hello all, I'm reaching out to ask a few things about an alternator upgrade that I'm doing to my '71 Swinger. I've decided on getting this Powermaster 95 amp unit to future-proof the car for upgrades and improving the charging system. My car has a 360 small block and is non-ac with a dual-field externally regulated alternator currently.

Powermaster 7519 Powermaster Retro Alternators | Summit Racing

When installing the new alternator, I've read that it's best to add a new charge wire with a fusible link running from ALT to the BAT terminal on the starter relay. What gauge wire/fuse link is going to be best for doing this? And will the existing wire from ALT running to the amp gauge be okay to stay connected? I'm trying to avoid causing any safety issues during this install and would prefer to not have to take out the gauge cluster. Additionally, I think that the MAD bypass method does something similar to this to bypass the bulkhead connector block. Is that basically what I will be doing, just with a thicker gauge wire?
8 gauge wire with a 50 amp fuse at each end... and leave the original hookup

wiring.jpg
 
6 Ga might be a little overboard for you, but this is a good kit. You'll want to get a crimper for the terminals, the "smash it in the vice" die works fine, or you can just solder it.
American Autowire 510475 American Autowire High-Output Alternator Connection Kits | Summit Racing

Then you can just do the MAD bypass of the amp meter and you'll be set. Can just tie the ends together at the bulkhead connector and then use a 14 ga fuse link.

I did that kit and put a terminal on my B+ cable and used some MIL spec battery terminals.

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